piedpiperX2000 Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 (edited) Alright so my last two builds weren't up to my standards and I just wasn't happy with them, so I started all over from scratch, with new tools, more templates and best challenge I could throw at myself to test my building skills, and make sweet a** guitars! =] Neck pieces arrived, one 3/4/20" Mahogany blank and flamed maple center laminate. Cut/planed/glued The blank is big enough for two necks but I need more length for a deep set neck<br> Scarf Ears Edited August 5, 2008 by piedpiperX2000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piedpiperX2000 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Routing shape and headstock with template<br> Body blank planed, cut, chambers routed Asymmetrical neck contour routed and rough shaped Deep neck pocket routed, for aesthetic and comfort reasons I decided on a recessed tom instead of neck angle. Typical neck pocket test Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piedpiperX2000 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Body and back contour Quilted Set arrived Shape cut out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piedpiperX2000 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Binding routes started Headstock overlay first binding channel routed purfling/pearl channel routed White binding glued First b/w/b purf glued Second Better shot of the asymmetrical neck, can't really tell too well but the effect is subtle in sight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piedpiperX2000 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Might be doing it with this sample, haven't decided yet contrary to the thread subject =] *This is day three at this point*<br> Truss glued/Finger board radiused and reslotted/Channels routed < Starting to apply binding I think I'm just gonna clear coat it like this XD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piedpiperX2000 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Hand cutting inside b/w/b purf Some more shots, this is as far as I am right now, at day 4 I'm waiting on the pearl until I can do anymore Happy Building! - Josh PS: Top and neck aren't glued yet just dry assemble Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElysianGuitars Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 wow, great project. question, any reason for the deep tenon? only thing i can figure is maybe you don't want it to look like a neck through? nice work thus far, the binding rules. whats with the channel on each side of your fretboard? is something going to go over the top of that, or is that to set the depth of your fretboard or something? and the asymmetrical neck, is it like todd keehn at tkinstruments.com does? like this? i've done that setup before, on my 7 string flying V, and i love it, its my absolute favorite neck carve. i even recarved my 6 string to make it somewhat like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piedpiperX2000 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Thanks I did it in the quest for the best direct wood connection possible, there wont be any glue in the pocket just as the first build. The channel on each side is for the bwb purfling on each side of the 3mm pearl that hasn't arrived yet Yup it's like that, not to that extreme so it's more subtle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElysianGuitars Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 Thanks I did it in the quest for the best direct wood connection possible, there wont be any glue in the pocket just as the first build. The channel on each side is for the bwb purfling on each side of the 3mm pearl that hasn't arrived yet Yup it's like that, not to that extreme so it's more subtle mines even more extreme than that i'm also going to experiment with moving the truss rod towards the bass side a little bit, in hopes that i can get more relief on the bass side than on the treble side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 I did it in the quest for the best direct wood connection possible, there wont be any glue in the pocket just as the first build. So.... how do you plan on it staying put? I didn't see any tapering, notches, or anything else to hold it in place. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piedpiperX2000 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 haha that's crazy dude =] Truss relocation is a cool thought! I dont know how a varied relief would affect action though it doesn't seem like it would be a positive effect, have you drawn up some diagrams or plans to test effects theoretically? Might be cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piedpiperX2000 Posted August 5, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 (edited) screws =] inside the guitar like my first build Tapering is probably a better idea but they both essentially achieve the same end goal Edited August 5, 2008 by piedpiperX2000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElysianGuitars Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 haha that's crazy dude =] Truss relocation is a cool thought! I dont know how a varied relief would affect action though it doesn't seem like it would be a positive effect, have you drawn up some diagrams or plans to test effects theoretically? Might be cool! well think about this, i've found i get lower action on the bass strings with more relief, where i get lower action on treble strings with less relief. you don't need a lot of relief on the treble strings because when they vibrate, they don't move around nearly as much, so you can get away with less relief. bass strings tend to benefit from more relief, or so i've found... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted August 5, 2008 Report Share Posted August 5, 2008 I did it in the quest for the best direct wood connection possible, there wont be any glue in the pocket just as the first build. i dont see how screws will be better, is the neck in any way removable to access the screws. you have an extra long neck tenon which looks to me like a fantastic amount of surface area for a great neck join that would last a lifetime - especially once the top is glued on.... too me that would seem like the best direct wood connection possible still, the build looks great and i am sure it will work with what you learned from the first ones... just not sure how its better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piedpiperX2000 Posted August 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Screws better than gluing? If that's what ya mean I've read multiple places about essentially any glue damping tone or vibration transfer from neck to body. Thinking more, tapering or notches in addition to securing with screws should give the best solid non-glued surface to surface connection. I guess it's just another reiteration of the "what really DOES have an impact on tone" discussion, finishes, neck contact, glues, pickup rings etc etc. Thanks WezV Elysian, O_o... SWEET! =] That would be awesome if it works!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalhead28 Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Looks very nice! Good luck with the build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hooglebug Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 you better actually finish this one damn it! everytime i've been waiting to see yours finished. if you dont finish this one then i shall just have to...um.....say bad things about you behind your back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenny Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 damn man, either ive been out of it, or you build fast this one looks great! and yes, we might say bad things behind your back :-p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piedpiperX2000 Posted August 6, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 Hoogle, I'm soo finishing this one =D the last ones weren't good enough! As you know pretty well one has to have the highest standards when it comes to building. Kenny haha well I've been takin pictures from the start and just uploaded them all yesterday but now i'm at a standstill waiting for this pearl! I guess I could route binding channels on the quilt and carve the top... maybe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted August 6, 2008 Report Share Posted August 6, 2008 You know, if the neck tenon slid perfectly into that slot (no gaps at all), I don't think you'd need glue OR screws. Think about which direction the strings are pulling in, and which direction the neck must move to fall out... and with the torque of the strings, the tenon is so long that if the top-to-body glue joint never fails, the neck will never move at all (but you could slide it out with the strings off--pretty cool!!!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piedpiperX2000 Posted August 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 You're right! I'd just feel better if there's some sort of securing concepts taken though just so when someones changin string they're not like why did my neck just fall off. ha. well... thing is my neck pockets are usually tight enough that it have to use a clamp to squeeze it into place I dont think it'd be too easy to pull out. That's a really neat concept though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted August 7, 2008 Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 I was actually thinking the same thing, Geo. That would be a cool marketing point So.... you promised us super extras, Josh. What do you have in mind? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted August 7, 2008 Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 That would be a cool marketing point Yeah: "guitar disassembles for storage or travel!" Except... the neck is just as long as the guitar itself. Still doesn't fit in my suitcase! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supernova9 Posted August 7, 2008 Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 You know, if the neck tenon slid perfectly into that slot (no gaps at all), I don't think you'd need glue OR screws. Think about which direction the strings are pulling in, and which direction the neck must move to fall out... and with the torque of the strings, the tenon is so long that if the top-to-body glue joint never fails, the neck will never move at all (but you could slide it out with the strings off--pretty cool!!!) You might be right if wood wasn't an organic substance that moves, contracts and expands based upon changes in temperature or humidity. But when you cut your perfectly fitting neck joint, then a day later find out you can't get the neck back in because one's expanded or the other's contracted, what are you going to do then? Or if gaps appear when the wood changes? Otherwise people with CNC machines wouldn't bother with bolts or glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geo Posted August 7, 2008 Report Share Posted August 7, 2008 You might be right if wood wasn't an organic substance that moves, contracts and expands based upon changes in temperature or humidity. I thought of that... but it seems that over the length of that neck tenon, a small shrinkage would not change the neck angle much, as the wood still has a solid surface against which to bear (the top). I could see, though, that the tenon expanding while out of the body would be a big problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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