Vinny Posted November 24, 2008 Report Share Posted November 24, 2008 Hi Gang, Im a self-admitted tool junkie and have just about all I need to make bodies and necks in the garage. There happens to be a Radial Arm Saw for sale locally and I trying to decide if I really need one or is it that little inside gremlin saying get it, hee he get it. The Model is a Sears 10'' and very good shape, the price is $75 USD. I have the Stew Mac fret slotting blade for the table saw and I made a sled to cut boards with it. I recall some builders instaling the same blade in their Radial Saw too. Im building solid body electrics and arhtops, and plan to make acoustics, the tools on hand are a table saw, 9'' band saw, router table, jointer, planer, drill press and varoius power hand tools. What can I use this saw for in guitar making? -Thanks, Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted November 24, 2008 Report Share Posted November 24, 2008 Be aware that there was a safety recall on Sears 10" radial arm saws. I don't remember the details, but you can probably find them with a Google search. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dugg Posted November 24, 2008 Report Share Posted November 24, 2008 I don't have a table or radial arm saw, and won't be getting one soon. I do have a Grizzly ultimate 14" bandsaw though, and it gets used constantly. I did professional cabinet making in NYC for years and used a table saw all the time, but can't for the life of me see a use for it in instrument building. Ok, so I often choose hand tools for their greater accuracy and lower noise. When I need to cross cut a piece of wood that won't fit the bandsaw (or it's too early for me to hear loud stuff), I grab a hand saw. Part of my reason for not having a table saw is space, but the other part is safety measured against usefulness. Not many lutherie uses for a wickedly dangerous and large tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Abbett Posted November 24, 2008 Report Share Posted November 24, 2008 Best use for a radial arm saw is a door stop. It pulls wood/fingers into the blade. There is a reason they don't make them much anymore (You can still get them, but not very popular). If your name is Stubby.. A Radial Arm Saw might be for you! Of course people still use them, and safely... But you have to really know and understand this tool. -John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted November 24, 2008 Report Share Posted November 24, 2008 Best use for a radial arm saw is a door stop. It pulls wood/fingers into the blade. There is a reason they don't make them much anymore (You can still get them, but not very popular). If your name is Stubby.. A Radial Arm Saw might be for you! Of course people still use them, and safely... But you have to really know and understand this tool. -John+1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted November 24, 2008 Report Share Posted November 24, 2008 I don't see much of a use for one. A small table saw has mroe use. Other than fretboards there is not much on a guitar that a radial arm saw can be used for. If you are looking to cut blanks to length you would be better spending the money on a sliding chop saw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted November 24, 2008 Report Share Posted November 24, 2008 $75 ?!?!?! Why aren't you there with cash in hand right now?!?! In all seriousness, it does most everything a good table saw will do - it will cut slots in the fretboard (albiet easier without having to make a jig), it will cross-cut with a perfect 90° angle, and it makes a nice workspace with the arm swung out of the way. Those are my 3 main uses, and if you are already used to doing all that with a table saw, then there's probably no need for the radial arm saw. The main reason I like it better than a table saw for slotting is because #1 I can see what the blade is doing, and #2 you can slot fretboards with a radius, they don't have to be flat like they must be for a table saw. With deep slots in very hard woods, the blade will have a tendency to grab and run the saw toward you (in the same direction you're pulling), but with the newer saws this is countered with a cable that is supposed to let out slowly and prevent the saw from running away (the handle has a trigger that has to be held down otherwise the cable won't feed out). Mine is a bit older and doesn't have this feature - just a jury-rigged spring. Since getting one, I find that I now use a table saw only for ripping long boards. Yes you have to be careful that you don't cut your fingers off, but what else is new? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinny Posted November 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2008 Thanks to everyone for the advice. Erik, that exacyly what it looks like. -Vinny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Abbett Posted November 24, 2008 Report Share Posted November 24, 2008 I can see where it might be good for a dedicated fret slot cutter. It wouldn't pull much with such a thin Kerf, and you are not asking it to do much. If you were doing fingerboards regularly, you could building in some safety features. Pay attention or you could have a real "Fingerboard" fingers included. I wouldn't advise it for general woodworking. See my post above. I used one for a year or so, to cross cut rough lumber. If it binds it does scary things. Get a chop saw for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted November 24, 2008 Report Share Posted November 24, 2008 Thanks to everyone for the advice. Erik, that exacyly what it looks like. -Vinny Probably doesn't have the safety cable then... I got this one for free by fixing the motor - new ones are something like $500. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Abbett Posted November 25, 2008 Report Share Posted November 25, 2008 The one I had was an old craftsman, it had something like a 6 or 7 inch blade with very few teeth. It cross cut like crazy, but was very agressive. If it hit a knot, it wanted to pull the whole top assembly. I got rid of it. Nope, no cable. The head assembly was free moving. -J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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