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Posted

Working on my first build and have encountered a problem. I'm not sure how to proceed so I am here to ask the experts.

Here's the info:

24 fret, 24.75 scale neck

22 fret , 24.75 scale body with routed dual humbuckers

Problem:

When I mount the 24 fret neck into the body, the bridge will be placed against the bridge pickup ring. When I mount a 22 fret neck into the body, the bridge is in the proper place.

Possible solution:

Can I shorten the 24 fret neck by @.75" and change it into a 22 fret? Will that modification affect tuning and intonation?

Both the 22 fret and 24 fret neck measure 12 3/8" from the nut to the middle of the 12th fret so the bridge should be mounted 12 3/8" from the middle of the 12th fret correct? It appears to me that the extra length of of the 24 fret neck is moving the location of the bridge.

Thanks!

Posted

So you've got the important part - that the bridge must be located in relation to the neck. By moving the nut further away from the body, you have to move the bridge in that direction as well.

You *could* shorten the end of the 24 fret neck off, (assuming the truss rod isn't in the way - wouldn't work if the truss rod adjusts at the heel) this would allow the neck to slide further into the body, and move the bridge placement back until it clears the already routed spot for the humbuckers.

But why not alter the body? Route the neck pocket further into the body to allow you place the neck further in, retaining the full 24 frets. (Not seeing the neck, I'm not certain that you wouldn't have to remove some frets with the shortening you're talking about.) Alter the body a bit to improve fret access if needed.

Honestly, I'd probably just make a new body that fits the neck you have, and work something else out with that body in the future.

Posted (edited)

If the bridge is already in place (holes routering etc) then shortening the neck or routing the body deeper seem to me the only way to go

But it begs the age-old question - Do you want 24 frets or the neck pickup in its prime location?

If you have the neck pickup under the 24th fret location (2nd octave node) you get a rich warm tone that can't really be achieved any other way

On my next project I'm having 23 frets and with just a little bend you reach the second octave!

EDIT: As j. pierce mentioned, make sure about the trussrod!

Edited by Crusader
Posted

If you are going with a solid color, it would probably be easier to fill the bridge humbucker hole and reroute it where you want it. Or fill the neck hole and go for a single coil, which would give you a little room to move the neck back.

Posted (edited)

Flat-out easiest thing to do is join the neck on "as-is" and position the bridge in the appropriate place (seeing as it hasn't been installed yet)

If you are right-handed - REGARDLESS OF 22 OR 24 FRET NECK

The bridge should be 24 3/4" from the nut on the first string side

and about 24 15/16" on the 6th string side (this allows for compensation)

But I would be concerned about the position of the BRIDGE pickup, so a couple of questions -

Whats the distance from the centre of the 24th fret to the centre of the bridge pickup well?

Edited by Crusader
Posted

The problem you've got is you're trying to put a 24 fret neck on a body designed for 22 frets. The 3 options which are open as have been said are:

1) route the neck pock deeper into the body.

Problem here is with the body there will be very little possibility of using the higher frets.

2) Cut the neck at the 23 fret.

Personally this is the route I'd take - I'd be very surprised if the truss rod came all the way to the 23 fret.

3) Fill the bridge pick up and reroute it

Well really you'd need to fill both and re-route both since the neck pickup placing isn't in it's ideally location. This options is only open it you are going with a solid colour.

Posted

I say why route anything? or even cut anything? His "first build" which looks like a just an assembly not actually a build and he's allready buggered it up a bit. I think at this stage getting out the power tools might lose some limbs. hahaha'

Considering the body is allready finished & buffed Id remove the fret at the 23 fret and cut there, saving the piece you cut off to trace as a template. Draw a center line on the back of the neck before you cut, then sand that puppy to fit the pocket.

Also Id take like a 3/32 drill bit and drill the 23rd fret slot in the center of the neck to see if the truss rod is there.

Posted
But it begs the age-old question - Do you want 24 frets or the neck pickup in its prime location?

If you have the neck pickup under the 24th fret location (2nd octave node) you get a rich warm tone that can't really be achieved any other way

But that goes out the window as soon as you fret a note, don't you think?

The solution seems easy to me. Mount the 22 fret neck.

Posted
I say why route anything? or even cut anything? His "first build" which looks like a just an assembly not actually a build and he's allready buggered it up a bit. I think at this stage getting out the power tools might lose some limbs. hahaha'

Ok, assembly then. Where have I buggered it up? As you stated all I'm doing is putting pieces together. But actually, I have rebuilt Corvettes, Grand Ams, Thunderbirds, etc so I just might be able to handle a few power tools.

Considering the body is allready finished & buffed Id remove the fret at the 23 fret and cut there, saving the piece you cut off to trace as a template. Draw a center line on the back of the neck before you cut, then sand that puppy to fit the pocket. Also Id take like a 3/32 drill bit and drill the 23rd fret slot in the center of the neck to see if the truss rod is there.

The body came like that but will be repainted using the Mirage paint system. I had thought about drilling to see where the truss rod is but what is the purpose of the "template"?

Posted
The problem you've got is you're trying to put a 24 fret neck on a body designed for 22 frets. The 3 options which are open as have been said are:

1) route the neck pock deeper into the body.

Problem here is with the body there will be very little possibility of using the higher frets.

2) Cut the neck at the 23 fret.

Personally this is the route I'd take - I'd be very surprised if the truss rod came all the way to the 23 fret.

3) Fill the bridge pick up and reroute it

Well really you'd need to fill both and re-route both since the neck pickup placing isn't in it's ideally location. This options is only open it you are going with a solid colour.

Color will be solid. Option 2 and 3 are a toss up right now. Not sure which way to go.

Posted
The solution seems easy to me. Mount the 22 fret neck.

Considering this as well. But, can wood be added to the 22 fret neck headstock to change the shape to somewhat match or resemble the "wings and horns" of the BC Rich neck? How would you attach them, glue and dowels? What about strength and stability?

Posted
But, can wood be added to the 22 fret neck headstock to change the shape...?

Yes, in fact thats the way they make a lot of headstocks. However adding to something already made can be very ticky depending on a few things. What shape is the 22 fret neck's headstock?

Posted (edited)

hi guys

please forgive me if i'm wrong, but if the neck is a 24.75 scale neck, and the body is a 24.75 scale body, then it doesn't matter how many frets are on the neck, the bridge will be in the same position fo a 24.75 scale neck with 24 frets, 22 frets, 21 frets or 30 frets.

the 12th fret is in the same position if the necks are the same scale length.

again, i could be completely wrong on this, but i don't see a problem at all (or am i missing the problem??)

cheers

darren

edit: sorry just realised that the issue would arise with the neck pocket (i'll just take my foot out of my mouth now!!)

Edited by dash
Posted
But, can wood be added to the 22 fret neck headstock to change the shape...?

Yes, in fact thats the way they make a lot of headstocks. However adding to something already made can be very ticky depending on a few things. What shape is the 22 fret neck's headstock?

Gibson style. Here it is:

sgp1.jpg

sgp2.jpg

Posted

Looks like it has a veneer over the headstock, if so I personally wouldn't alter it and stay with the 24 fret neck (If you really want that BC Rich head shape)

Here's something to consider that hasn't been mentioned yet

Gibson SGs have the pickups set back from the neck (closer to the bridge) than Les Pauls 335s etc. Some SGs have 24 frets and as far as I know the pickups positions are the same as 22 fret SGs

So if this body has the pickups in the same location as a Gibson SG then routering the neck pocket longer is the way to go in my opinion

Posted

Thanks for the input. I have reached a decision. I am going to leave the neck as is, fill in the bridge pickup cavity, and reroute the bridge pickup cavity @3/4" - 1" closer to the neck pickup. That should leave ample room for the bridge.

Any thoughts on that?

Concerning the earlier post about my 1st build being an assembly, when you build a house, don't you just assemble pieces? So why do you say "building" a house?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
Thanks for the input. I have reached a decision. I am going to leave the neck as is, fill in the bridge pickup cavity, and reroute the bridge pickup cavity @3/4" - 1" closer to the neck pickup. That should leave ample room for the bridge.

Any thoughts on that?

Concerning the earlier post about my 1st build being an assembly, when you build a house, don't you just assemble pieces? So why do you say "building" a house?

Ranman , don't take it personal. We say "building" a house because we have to cut and assemble many , many parts. A guitar "build" consists of cutting and routing your own body and neck. Assembly/customization leaves us a notch below the title of "builder" .

I'm currently working on my first build , but I'm ignoring most of the rules.

There's the right way , the wrong way , and then there's my way lol :D

poolguyfromhell

Posted
Thanks for the input. I have reached a decision. I am going to leave the neck as is, fill in the bridge pickup cavity, and reroute the bridge pickup cavity @3/4" - 1" closer to the neck pickup. That should leave ample room for the bridge.

Any thoughts on that?

Concerning the earlier post about my 1st build being an assembly, when you build a house, don't you just assemble pieces? So why do you say "building" a house?

Ranman , don't take it personal. We say "building" a house because we have to cut and assemble many , many parts. A guitar "build" consists of cutting and routing your own body and neck. Assembly/customization leaves us a notch below the title of "builder" .

I'm currently working on my first build , but I'm ignoring most of the rules.

There's the right way , the wrong way , and then there's my way lol :D

poolguyfromhell

No prob. Glad to see you here pgfh!

A lot of what I do is my way then I have to take it apart and do it the right way! :D

Posted

I would favor making up the diff at the bridge end, maybe it can be done without rerouting? I've put pickups in all kinds of positions, and I personally don't believe the theories about 'sweet spots'. I often put humbuckers as close as possible to the bridge, some Music Man guitars are like that too.

Posted

Glad to be here. Ranman - have you considered just using a single coil in the neck position to give you the room you need to get the neck right ? You could even use a single sized blade bucker.

Just some food for thought.

Posted
Glad to be here. Ranman - have you considered just using a single coil in the neck position to give you the room you need to get the neck right ? You could even use a single sized blade bucker.

Just some food for thought.

Got a reccomendation for the single blade bucker?

Posted

I think the one I used was a Seymore Duncan Hotrail , but it was a few years back. I think DiMarzio makes one too. Guitarheads.net has some excellent prices on theirs and the tone is fantastic.

Try fitting a regular single coil in there and check for neck position. who knows - it just might work !

Best of luck !!

PGFH

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