guitman32 Posted December 20, 2003 Report Share Posted December 20, 2003 So I am in the market for a new guitar and affordability is key. I am considering either buying a set-neck mid range instrument (Schecter, or maybe an Epiphone), or buying a neck and body and bolting a custom creation together. Before this post starts sounds really lame, I shall say that I am a lefty, so my guitar choices are somewhat limited when buying factory direct. This is why I was so turned on to the idea of building a custom bodied guitar to my specs rather than buy a way-too-expensive V or explorer. My ideal "home made" guitar specs are as follows: Mahogany Body, Mahogany or maple neck with ebony board....Tonepros bridge...as far as shape goes, V or Explorer... What my question boils down to is can I expect similar quiality in a home built bolt-on guitar as I would from a store bought set neck $500-800 guitar. By quality I mean construction quality, as well as tone and sustain. One final note is that I am looking to upgrade, so I am not just looking for a second axe...I am looking for something that can take my current guitars place as my main instrument of choice. All your input is greatly appreciated, and thanks for your patience. -Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbkim Posted December 20, 2003 Report Share Posted December 20, 2003 If you do go homebuilt bolt-on, then definately add the carvin bolt-on kit into your consideration list. It starts at $349.99 and notice they don't charge extra for lefty. Hmm... a thought. How long have you been playing? I ask because, if you are a beginner, there is the option of playing righty. There are many left-handed guitarists that play righty. One advantage being that you're using your strong hand for fingering. I'm righty and have played lefty for 2 years (way back when ) so I know, it's not an impossible switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted December 20, 2003 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2003 Thanks, I am heading over to Carvin now... I realize that I may have sounded like a bit of a beginner, but Ive been playing for 8 years now (I am 22) and gone through only two guitars...my first was a cheap yamaha, and my second, which I currently still own is a Japanese Jackson. I am a student, so my budget is of top priority. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbkim Posted December 20, 2003 Report Share Posted December 20, 2003 Here's a link to Lizzy Daymont's carvin bolt-on build experience for reference. I think the Chinese caligraphy on her headstock looks pretty darn cool. Yeah, couldn't tell how much experience playing you had from your post. Yup, 8 years is too long to learn it all anew . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted December 20, 2003 Report Share Posted December 20, 2003 Since this would be your first home-built guitar, the quality would not be as good as a mid-level production job. However, you would learn so much that the second one would definitely be better, and it would be built exactly to your specs, no compromises. As for cost, it is a no-brainer. If you have access to a good woodshop for free, it could be similar in cost to a mid-level Epiphone. If you have to invest in the tools, it is far and away cheaper to buy one off the shelf. I think the main reason to build is not because it is cheaper (it normally is NOT), but because you just need an axe that you can't find anywhere else. At least that's the case for me. It's a great endeavor to build yourself, but cheap it is not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbkim Posted December 20, 2003 Report Share Posted December 20, 2003 The points that erikbojerik brings up are all valid. They apply especially well for a "from scratch" project. A kit guitar is a great middle ground. Either the aforementioned Carvin or the more affordable Saga kits that Brian sells, I think, would be a great first experience... minimal tools, etc. The only thing that'd scare me would be the finish. But if you go with stain/tung oil like the Lizzy Daymont link I posted above, even that is doable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daddy ray Posted December 20, 2003 Report Share Posted December 20, 2003 if you pay attention to what you'r doin you can have way more guitar for the $'s by bolting one together yourself plus every time you encounter it you have the "feel good" of having done it yourself...talk about priceless!! dan erlewine has a video about assembling from componants that covers everything from proper bridge placement to cutting the nut to final set-up use this for your how to if you've never do it before it's available from stew/mac it's how i got started in this a few years back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Posted December 20, 2003 Report Share Posted December 20, 2003 Dang that finish on Lizzy Daymont's Carvin kit is killer...I looked at the woodburst page and I've fallen in love with their salmon stain...wonder if I can get those burst colours over here in Germany so long ace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted December 20, 2003 Report Share Posted December 20, 2003 Doesn't Carvin offer production set-necked lefty models too? Just an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbkim Posted December 20, 2003 Report Share Posted December 20, 2003 if you pay attention to what you'r doin you can have way more guitar for the $'s by bolting one together yourself plus every time you encounter it you have the "feel good" of having done it yourself...talk about priceless!! dan erlewine has a video about assembling from componants that covers everything from proper bridge placement to cutting the nut to final set-up use this for your how to if you've never do it before it's available from stew/mac it's how i got started in this a few years back Yeah, that'd be the best of all world, IMO too but as erikbojerik said: If you have access to a good woodshop for free, it could be similar in cost to a mid-level Epiphone. If you have to invest in the tools, it is far and away cheaper to buy one off the shelf. and guitman32 said: One final note is that I am looking to upgrade, so I am not just looking for a second axe...I am looking for something that can take my current guitars place as my main instrument of choice. ... I am a student, so my budget is of top priority. A kit guitar is a great middle ground. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbkim Posted December 20, 2003 Report Share Posted December 20, 2003 Dang that finish on Lizzy Daymont's Carvin kit is killer...I looked at the woodburst page and I've fallen in love with their salmon stain...wonder if I can get those burst colours over here in Germany. Yeah, doesn't it look great? Shooting any type of finish still "scares" me. The stain/tung oil route seems so much "easier" and the way to go for a first project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
renablistic Posted December 20, 2003 Report Share Posted December 20, 2003 if you didn't realize: she also used 6 coats of brush on polyurethane on top of that tung oil/stain finish. which is scary. Wouldn't the poly have a hard time sticking to the tung oil?!?!? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbkim Posted December 20, 2003 Report Share Posted December 20, 2003 if you didn't realize: she also used 6 coats of brush on polyurethane on top of that tung oil/stain finish. which is scary. Wouldn't the poly have a hard time sticking to the tung oil?!?!? Wipe-on is not the same as shooting. You wouldn't need to have poly with stain/tung oil (maybe waxed too?), is what I should have added. But overall, having the poly over it would be more durable, I'd think. Scary for me is trying to get a super-shiny buffed out finish. Hmm... I don't know, apparently it worked for her. Probably waited until the tung oil was completely dry/soaked-in before wiping on the poly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted December 21, 2003 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2003 Well guys thanks for all your input. In my original post iI was referring to a kit guitar...possibly ordering the body and neck from Warmoth. I did check out the Carvin site, and was amazed at the $0 charge for lefty models... I did a few calculations, and an entire guitar, to my own specs, including all the parts minus the pickups would total roughly $475 (body and complete neck from warmoth). This is a mahogany V body, Mahogany neck/w ebony fretboard, tuneomatic bridge, and only high quality components. I have not included the price of pickups because even if I bought one new, I would replace them. So now, is this guitar, fully built and finished by me, of comprable quality to a Carvin SC90S? This would not be including any options, and dont forget that I would replace the pickups. I have thought about this question, and realized that a neck-through, production guitar from Carvin would most probably be better in most aspects, minus maybe the wood. However, I love the fact that I could customize the finish of my own V, and that I could have a body that I really love (those Carvin bodies are a bit funky lookin to me). And furthermore, I would have that "satisfaction" of having built my own guitar rush through me evey time I pick it up, as daddy ray pointed out. My main concern is, however, sound quality, so if you all have any comments on how each guitars tonal qualities would compare, or any other thoughts, please contribute.. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbkim Posted December 21, 2003 Report Share Posted December 21, 2003 I think you'd be happy if you went with Warmoth. You might want to consider getting the stainless steel fretwire option for an additional $20. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbkim Posted December 21, 2003 Report Share Posted December 21, 2003 (those Carvin bodies are a bit funky lookin to me). Yeah, aren't they? Most of their body styles do not appeal to me. I have a '93 DC127 (I think) I'm only 5'7" so the smaller pointier body (vs. a fender strat) works for me . The only other one I'd consider is the Holdsworth fatboy... but not for it's looks . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted December 23, 2003 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2003 Well guys and gals, I have made a decision...Both body and neck from Warmoth Body...Mahogany V, set for TOM bridge, rear control cavity, 2xH config, 1V, 1T Neck...Mahogany Back, Ebony Fretboard, 1 11/16 nut, Std Thin Back, and Stainless 6105 frets I hope this meets all your exacting standards Please feel free to comment... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Litchfield Custom Gutars Posted December 23, 2003 Report Share Posted December 23, 2003 your standards are what count Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bingo328 Posted December 23, 2003 Report Share Posted December 23, 2003 I'm with you on the lefthandedness suck factor. Thats why I first went this route, I was sick of the same three colors and pickup combinations on cheap guitars with a ridiculous upscharge. I bought a Les Paul style bolt neck from Warmoth and would have to say the quality is very high. I wouldn't call their stuff cheap by any standards though. If possible finish it yourself, especially the neck. For anything other than maple they add 30$ on top of the listed price on the web. Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted December 23, 2003 Author Report Share Posted December 23, 2003 Bingo, I am definetly planning on finishing it myself, and I know this is not a finishing forum but... I know its mahognay, and I want to maintain a natural finish, so I have already read through ReRanch's 101 article a couple of times, and have a few questions. First, when applying the grain filler, what is the process of staining it to match the mahogany color? So I plan to , fill in the grain with filler and sand between applications, then apply S&S until the finish is level and al the grain is filled...but, does the S&S dry clear, allowing me to simply add a satin clear cloat of nitro after that, or would I need to do something different if I wanted a natural mahogany finish? Finally, what do you guys think about just applying tung oil to the finish, then just going straight to the satin nitro? I understand that this will leave the grain of the wood, but I think that it might me nice that way. Is my thinking correct or would this not turn out well? Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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