Jump to content

The Dragon


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 229
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

How thick will the finished product be, since that look like at least a 1-1/2" thick body already?

The block I made the body core from was 2". The back is 1/4", the top is 1/8".

Man your cranking them out, what's up?

Getting canned in February gave me plenty of time. Even though I'm really enjoying the time, I'd still rather be working. I'm actually working on two others as well without posting any progress pics, and another is on deck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4-piece 1/8" bloodwood cap glued on and trimmed

wip28.jpg

wip29.jpg

wip30.jpg

Because it was in 4 parts, it took 4 days to glue the dang thing on. I really took my time to line up the grain. All 4 pieces are bookmatched; the center two are adjoining, the outside two are obviously separated by the middle section. You'll see later that when it's all leveled out that the grain really flows nicely from board to board. I actually re-cut the sets: the first pair of sets didn't match up color-wise. These were taken from the same board, so the color is a LOT more consistent.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nor it's time to continue the major surgery on the neck. With what I want to do to the inlays, I need to pull the frets. Doing a re-fret will be a valuable learning experience for me, so let's have at it!

$3 nipper ground flat = $3 fret puller :D

wip32.jpg

wip33.jpg

wip34.jpg

wip35.jpg

There wasn't that much in chip-out. Just 3 very small pieces that were immediately glued back in with CA. It'll all smooth over when it's re-radiused.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How did you go about routing for binding on the headstock with the fretboard already on? I always try and do the headstock first since the fretboard ends up getting in the way of the router or making a weird angle on the router table. Otherwise I am stuck putting a spacer block on the front of the head and having the bit stick way out (something I try and avoid).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First I removed the nut - it was REALLY in the way. That left me a little space between the f/b & the headstock. After setting the height of the binding bit on the router table, I basically had to hold the neck on the edge of the radius, doing my best to keep the round surface as level as possible. It was a tricky proposition that in hindsight I wish I hadn't done. But once it was done, all I could do was try and make it work.

The headstock was pretty easy. Since it's a tiltback, the nut was off, AND there was extra thickness from the headplate, it sat flat on the face of the headstock. I just had to watch really closely when I got to the nut area so that I didn't go into the f/b. I went backwards most of the time, trying not to have any tearout. It seemed to work OK.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...