Dakhahn Posted May 23, 2009 Report Posted May 23, 2009 I'm going to start routing my own bodies with templates. My question is about the cutting diameters for pattern cutting bits for routers. Should I be using certain diameters for different parts of the templates? I.e, neck pocket, pickups, control cavities. Or is this more a matter of personal taste? Should I use smaller diameters to help avoid tear out? I have been looking at some bits that have a cutting diameter ranging from 1/2" to 1 1/8". I realize that the smaller diameters will remove more wood from the corners of neck pockets and such but does anyone have preferences to certain sizes and why? Thanks in advance to anyone willing to give me some info. Quote
Kammo1 Posted May 23, 2009 Report Posted May 23, 2009 Generally 1/2 or 3/4 inch diameter bits to outline the guitars and 3/8 diameter for p-up routs and cavities works for me Quote
Bmth Builder Posted May 23, 2009 Report Posted May 23, 2009 Yeah you're going to want small diameter bits for the corners of cavities, and the biggest bit possible for hogging out the majority of the material. I'm not sure if smaller bits cause less tear out, never heard that. Quote
Woodenspoke Posted May 23, 2009 Report Posted May 23, 2009 Generally a router which uses a 1/2" collar is preferred for doing the body shape. The bits are 3/4" or larger. As their is no real tight areas on a body outline the bit diameter makes no difference. The height of the bit here is important. You can try and hog out the body in one pass using a 2" tall bit or several passes with a 1 1/4" bit. For most people the 1 1/4" bit is best. You can also use a trim bit on the body just your pattern is reversed, or the body and pattern orientated opposite of a pattern bit. Now for things like pickup cavities a smaller bit is preferred. I use a 1/4" shaft 1/2" round 1/2" deep bit. It nay seem small but I found the bit has more uses being a bit shorter than most. One reason is I can sometimes go back to a pickup cavity and deepen it without a pattern as the bearing will ride along the routed cavity wall. Look for discussions on templates in this thread and you will discover some interesting things about bits and template height, also important when picking a bit. For the most part if you have both of the bits above you can do everything you need to. Quote
Dakhahn Posted May 24, 2009 Author Report Posted May 24, 2009 Thanks guys. I appreciate the info. Quote
stereordinary Posted May 24, 2009 Report Posted May 24, 2009 Slightly OT, with apologies, but does anyone know where to get a spiral pattern cutting bit? Quote
marko_slash Posted May 24, 2009 Report Posted May 24, 2009 Slightly OT, with apologies, but does anyone know where to get a spiral pattern cutting bit? I would like to know that too Quote
Woodenspoke Posted May 24, 2009 Report Posted May 24, 2009 No such thing in a solid carbide spiral pattern (template) bit. It is a straight shaft and you have no where to put a bearing. They do make spiral laminate trim bits with the bearing on the end. I have also not seen angled cutters on a pattern bit like some of the laminate trim bits have ( the non solid carbide type). Probably because it would interfere with the plunge cutting capabilities. Quote
marko_slash Posted May 24, 2009 Report Posted May 24, 2009 No such thing in a solid carbide spiral pattern (template) bit. It is a straight shaft and you have no where to put a bearing. They do make spiral laminate trim bits with the bearing on the end. I have also not seen angled cutters on a pattern bit like some of the laminate trim bits have ( the non solid carbide type). Probably because it would interfere with the plunge cutting capabilities. http://power-tools.hardwarestore.com/54-37...e=2&sortBy= It looks just like those, only the blade goes spiral, I had one once, unfortunately it is broken, I also had a pic, but I can't seem to find it... Quote
marko_slash Posted May 24, 2009 Report Posted May 24, 2009 http://cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=RB~7/8/906.191~2 There it is. Only the blade is more curved on this that I have. Quote
wood is good Posted May 24, 2009 Report Posted May 24, 2009 http://cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=RB~7/8/906.191~2 There it is. Only the blade is more curved on this that I have. Not really a spiral bit. That barley has any twist to the blade at all. Not much of a difference. Spiral bits look almost the same as a drill bit. Quote
marko_slash Posted May 24, 2009 Report Posted May 24, 2009 http://cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=RB~7/8/906.191~2 There it is. Only the blade is more curved on this that I have. Not really a spiral bit. That barley has any twist to the blade at all. Not much of a difference. Spiral bits look almost the same as a drill bit. I already told that mine is much more twisted, and I don't mean on those that look like drill bits...nevermind! Quote
Woodenspoke Posted May 24, 2009 Report Posted May 24, 2009 http://cmtutensili.com/show_items.asp?pars=RB~7/8/906.191~2 There it is. Only the blade is more curved on this that I have. I stand by what I have said. There is a difference between spiral solid carbide and a standard router bit with welded on carbide. There is also a big difference between pattern or template bits and Laminate or flush trim bits as to which end of the cutter the bearing is located. I have no doubt that you have a more twisted cutter but it would still not be considered a Pattern bit or a Spiral bit as Wood is Good has pointed out. It is a flush trim bit you are linking to and because the blade is welded it could not be considered a spiral bit.. Quote
DC Ross Posted May 24, 2009 Report Posted May 24, 2009 Maybe this is what you were thinking about? http://www.infinitytools.com/products.asp?dept=1339 Quote
marko_slash Posted May 25, 2009 Report Posted May 25, 2009 Maybe this is what you were thinking about? http://www.infinitytools.com/products.asp?dept=1339 No it isn't. Nevermind... Quote
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