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Stewmac Slotting Blade Hole


GREGMW

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Hi,

I have the Stewmac Frett slotting blade. Have any of you guys had the hole size drilled out to 1 inch.

I was going to get mine altered at a engineering shop but I thought I would ask the question before I stuff it up.

Also what kind of speed are these suppose to operate at.

Thanks

Greg

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I gotta ask..."Why?".....On what machine are you planning to mount it? I use mine on a Powermatic model 66 (very large table saw) and it has a 5/8in arbor. It may cost more to bore the hole than the blade is worth.

Hi,

I have a "Triton" Sawtable (Made in Australia) with a Hitachi circular saw in it.The shaft on the saw is 1 inch.

I can get it bored out for free but I am not too sure if its the way to go.

I have been looking around for a small table saw but even a lot of them have a 1 inch spindle.

Thanks

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Bore it out to fit your saw. If you need to use it in a saw with a smaller spindle you can get an insert to put into the 25mm hole.

I have an old 5/8" spindle De Walt radial arm saw but my blade has a 20mm hole in which I use an insert in to adapt it from Metric to Imperial.

The blade was made up for me by my sharpening service for around $25USD a lot cheaper than Stew-Mac.

I sure whoever bores it out for you can most probably make an adapter if you need it.

Keith

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Adapters are a good idea.

I am surprised that anything but a 14in or larger commercial saw would use a 1in arbor......Shows what I know!

I have friends in Sydney.....Say "Hi" for me!....and good luck with boring your blade. A decent machinist should be able to bore your blade without any problems.

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I would make sure this is a machine shop that is used to doing precision work. If the hole is slightly off center the blade will lope and wear out the saw very fast, and create a lot of vibrations. When the blades are made, they are either stamped with everything concentric or a hole inserted first and then turned and ground concentric to the center hole.

The machine shop where I work does nice work, but I know they can't hold that kind of accuracy or tolerance.

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I would make sure this is a machine shop that is used to doing precision work. If the hole is slightly off center the blade will lope and wear out the saw very fast, and create a lot of vibrations. When the blades are made, they are either stamped with everything concentric or a hole inserted first and then turned and ground concentric to the center hole.

The machine shop where I work does nice work, but I know they can't hold that kind of accuracy or tolerance.

Yes ,that is what I was concened about.

Thanks

Greg

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Check Thurston manufacturing in the states- they make sawblades with a number of different arbor sizes. I believe they make the .023 5"-6"inch blade with 1" arbor standard- very cheap too.

Too bad you arent in the states.... I'd trade you my 1" for that 5/8".

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Check Thurston manufacturing in the states- they make sawblades with a number of different arbor sizes. I believe they make the .023 5"-6"inch blade with 1" arbor standard- very cheap too.

Too bad you arent in the states.... I'd trade you my 1" for that 5/8".

I say that every day!! ,You guys have got all the good gear over there.

Thanks for your help ,I will look them up on Google.

Regards

Greg

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  • 2 weeks later...

I would avoid using the circular saw if I could. Those things vibrate quite a bit and I imagine that the runout is probably beyond acceptable for slotting frets. I would keep looking for a smaller, belt driven table saw. Avoid the direct drive machines (the small ones) for the same reasons I wouldnt use the circular saw.

I bought an old Craftsman 8" saw, belt driven with a 1/2" arbor and it is heavy, quiet and smooth. I had to go the opposite rout you did and fit a bushing to adapt the blade to the smaller arbor but it works great.

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I bought an old Craftsman 8" saw, belt driven with a 1/2" arbor and it is heavy, quiet and smooth. I had to go the opposite rout you did and fit a bushing to adapt the blade to the smaller arbor but it works great.

Sounds like you have the same TS I have. Think mine was made in the late 40's. The arbor shaft on mine is a little wonky and causing excessive run-out. Let me know if you ever come across replacement arbors for those old saws.

Also, with it having a 1/2" arbor , maybe those small blades places like McMaster sell will work on it . I think I might have seen these little blades around 4" diameter, with something like a .022" kerf, plus 1/2" arbor hole, and under $10.00, if I'm remembering correctly. I don't know if you can crank the blade up high enough to peek out the top of the table enough.

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Yeah, mine is probably from the 50's. I got it for $40 and it was really clean and complete. I am sure that the blade sold by LMI is just what you say and I am sure you could find one from any good machine shop catolog, McMaster-Carr maybe? I use the stiffeners on mine and I think they are essential for a stable cut.

Have you checked out OWWM.org and OWWM.com? They are great resources for old tools. I rebuilt an older Delta 14" bandsaw and have since picked up two drill presses from the 40's, an old Unisaw and a Delta 20" bandsaw. I didn't really believe that the old tools were that much better than the new stuff but I'm convinced now. I don't think I'll ever buy a new tool if an older machine is available. Now if I can only stop rebuilding machines and build a damn guitar.

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