GREGMW Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 Hi, I have the Stewmac Frett slotting blade. Have any of you guys had the hole size drilled out to 1 inch. I was going to get mine altered at a engineering shop but I thought I would ask the question before I stuff it up. Also what kind of speed are these suppose to operate at. Thanks Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdog Posted June 16, 2009 Report Share Posted June 16, 2009 I gotta ask..."Why?".....On what machine are you planning to mount it? I use mine on a Powermatic model 66 (very large table saw) and it has a 5/8in arbor. It may cost more to bore the hole than the blade is worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GREGMW Posted June 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 I gotta ask..."Why?".....On what machine are you planning to mount it? I use mine on a Powermatic model 66 (very large table saw) and it has a 5/8in arbor. It may cost more to bore the hole than the blade is worth. Hi, I have a "Triton" Sawtable (Made in Australia) with a Hitachi circular saw in it.The shaft on the saw is 1 inch. I can get it bored out for free but I am not too sure if its the way to go. I have been looking around for a small table saw but even a lot of them have a 1 inch spindle. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithHowell Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 Bore it out to fit your saw. If you need to use it in a saw with a smaller spindle you can get an insert to put into the 25mm hole. I have an old 5/8" spindle De Walt radial arm saw but my blade has a 20mm hole in which I use an insert in to adapt it from Metric to Imperial. The blade was made up for me by my sharpening service for around $25USD a lot cheaper than Stew-Mac. I sure whoever bores it out for you can most probably make an adapter if you need it. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdog Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 Adapters are a good idea. I am surprised that anything but a 14in or larger commercial saw would use a 1in arbor......Shows what I know! I have friends in Sydney.....Say "Hi" for me!....and good luck with boring your blade. A decent machinist should be able to bore your blade without any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted June 17, 2009 Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 I would make sure this is a machine shop that is used to doing precision work. If the hole is slightly off center the blade will lope and wear out the saw very fast, and create a lot of vibrations. When the blades are made, they are either stamped with everything concentric or a hole inserted first and then turned and ground concentric to the center hole. The machine shop where I work does nice work, but I know they can't hold that kind of accuracy or tolerance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GREGMW Posted June 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 17, 2009 I would make sure this is a machine shop that is used to doing precision work. If the hole is slightly off center the blade will lope and wear out the saw very fast, and create a lot of vibrations. When the blades are made, they are either stamped with everything concentric or a hole inserted first and then turned and ground concentric to the center hole. The machine shop where I work does nice work, but I know they can't hold that kind of accuracy or tolerance. Yes ,that is what I was concened about. Thanks Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
postal Posted June 19, 2009 Report Share Posted June 19, 2009 Check Thurston manufacturing in the states- they make sawblades with a number of different arbor sizes. I believe they make the .023 5"-6"inch blade with 1" arbor standard- very cheap too. Too bad you arent in the states.... I'd trade you my 1" for that 5/8". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GREGMW Posted June 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2009 Check Thurston manufacturing in the states- they make sawblades with a number of different arbor sizes. I believe they make the .023 5"-6"inch blade with 1" arbor standard- very cheap too. Too bad you arent in the states.... I'd trade you my 1" for that 5/8". I say that every day!! ,You guys have got all the good gear over there. Thanks for your help ,I will look them up on Google. Regards Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted June 19, 2009 Report Share Posted June 19, 2009 Phil Mailloux had one bored out bigger to fit his chop saw. He's in the land of Oz too, so maybe he can tell you where he had his done. Google his name (he has a website), or look him up here at this forum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay5 Posted June 28, 2009 Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 I would avoid using the circular saw if I could. Those things vibrate quite a bit and I imagine that the runout is probably beyond acceptable for slotting frets. I would keep looking for a smaller, belt driven table saw. Avoid the direct drive machines (the small ones) for the same reasons I wouldnt use the circular saw. I bought an old Craftsman 8" saw, belt driven with a 1/2" arbor and it is heavy, quiet and smooth. I had to go the opposite rout you did and fit a bushing to adapt the blade to the smaller arbor but it works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted June 28, 2009 Report Share Posted June 28, 2009 I bought an old Craftsman 8" saw, belt driven with a 1/2" arbor and it is heavy, quiet and smooth. I had to go the opposite rout you did and fit a bushing to adapt the blade to the smaller arbor but it works great. Sounds like you have the same TS I have. Think mine was made in the late 40's. The arbor shaft on mine is a little wonky and causing excessive run-out. Let me know if you ever come across replacement arbors for those old saws. Also, with it having a 1/2" arbor , maybe those small blades places like McMaster sell will work on it . I think I might have seen these little blades around 4" diameter, with something like a .022" kerf, plus 1/2" arbor hole, and under $10.00, if I'm remembering correctly. I don't know if you can crank the blade up high enough to peek out the top of the table enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay5 Posted June 29, 2009 Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 Yeah, mine is probably from the 50's. I got it for $40 and it was really clean and complete. I am sure that the blade sold by LMI is just what you say and I am sure you could find one from any good machine shop catolog, McMaster-Carr maybe? I use the stiffeners on mine and I think they are essential for a stable cut. Have you checked out OWWM.org and OWWM.com? They are great resources for old tools. I rebuilt an older Delta 14" bandsaw and have since picked up two drill presses from the 40's, an old Unisaw and a Delta 20" bandsaw. I didn't really believe that the old tools were that much better than the new stuff but I'm convinced now. I don't think I'll ever buy a new tool if an older machine is available. Now if I can only stop rebuilding machines and build a damn guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted June 29, 2009 Report Share Posted June 29, 2009 Yeah, I've checked out OWWM in the past. Never asked a question there yet. Would be great if a N.O.S arbor for my saw would pop up on Ebay. After once scoring a new $115.00 tool on Ebay for $27.00, the dream lives on ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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