Hrothgar Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 Hi, This is my first post on this forum, though I've been lurking for a bit. What a great resource you've all build here! I have a newish Hagstrom guitar that has a great neck and plays really well, but it has a really unfortunate 'cheap strat' knock off tremolo bridge. It's this one: http://www.hagstromguitars.com/F200P.html Given that I don't even use tremolo I'd like to try filling the cavities with Mahogany (what the body is made from) and installing a regular fixed bridge/tail piece. I've described what I want to do on some other music forums and everybody acts like I'm crazy. Though to me it seems like a pretty straight forward procedure. So my questions are: Am I crazy? Any advice or experience you can pass on before I start this project? Thanks! H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wood is good Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 It is VERY doable. There is even a tutorial on the main site: http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tht1.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hrothgar Posted June 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 It is VERY doable. There is even a tutorial on the main site: http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/tht1.htm That's a big help! Let me ask you this though. In that tutorial, it has you routing out the top of the guitar. I'm assuming this is to address the top side cavity that true floating bridges such as I floyd rose require. On my guitar, there is not "float" cavity, it's really just a "dive only" tremolo, and the only cavity on the top is simply the whole through the body where the metal part that the springs attach to goes through (i'm not sure what that part is called actually). So would I be correct in assuming that the top routing isn't necessary in my case? Thanks again, H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narcissism Posted June 25, 2009 Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 The routing will only be necessary as you see fit. If you want to insert a bigger block of wood, make a bigger hole. Just my opinion, I would just add all of the springs to the trem claw in the back, and then just keep the whammy bar off. It seems like your problem is with the bridge itself though. Are you thinking of going with a strat hardtail bridge, or one of those tune-o-matic dealies? Either one will work, but I'm just curious. good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hrothgar Posted June 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2009 Thanks for the good luck wishes! Yes many people have advised me to shim or "block" the tremolo bridge effectively creating a 'hardtail'. My main goal is to hopefully increase the sustain and have more control over the action. I was planning to go with a gibson style wrap around bridge or bridge/tailpiece. But, I just now learned what the strat 'hardtail' style bridge actually is. That looks like it would do, but one of my pet peeves is having to thread the strings from the back of the guitar. It's just a pain to feed the string up the cavity or to retrieve a broken ball end that is stuck up there. I do have an old mij strat that I'm wanting to convert also, and I think in that case, I'll definitely go with the hardtail bridge since it will probably just drop right in. There is one on SM that is top loading... only $20, might be a worthy experiment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim37 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 i went through this a few months ago but then i took one of the other member adives on setting up a strat with a trem. you might try it and see how that works its pretty cheap and easy to do. the first thing is to load it down with all 5 springs set the screws up im not sure how on that trem then adjust the claw so that the back of the trem is about 1/8" off the body when tuned (will need retuned after ever adjustment of the claw) then set the string hight and give it a try it worked on my mim that i was about to block up now i love the trem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fowl2338 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 I'm getting ready to do this with an alder bodied sqier of mine. I'm gonna fill it in and slap a hard tail on there. Gotoh hardtails are only $45 on stewmac. Or they've got a wraparound like you were mentioning for around $38. And if you really want a top loading bridge and don't wanna spend much, they've got these for $20.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hrothgar Posted June 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 I've been perusing the hardtails on stewmac. I'm liking a couple of those Gotoh ones. Especially because they load from the back! I saw that top loader as well. I'm thinking I'll try that on the old mij strat I have in pieces in the garage right now. Does anybody have any opinions about whether this procedure will help the sustain? and whether a gibson style tunamatic mounted on the big bolts would give a better result than the "sit on top" hardtail style? H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 Make sure you make a full scale drawing of the side profile before you do anything else or order anything. A TOM bridge sits quite a bit higher than a Strat bridge. Thus requiring a neck angle to achieve a reasonable action. You will either need to modify the neck pocket or neck to achieve the angle or reccess the TOM into the body slightly. Staying with a Strat style hardtail you will not need the angle. Look at some of the other companies such as Schaller or Wilkinson for hardtail bridges. There are quite a few that are top loading and require only a slight cavity under the bridgeo or none at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hrothgar Posted June 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 Wow that's a really good point, and I hadn't thought of that. Thanks for pointing that out! I definitely don't want to get into modifying the neck to fit the bridge. I'm becoming convinced that one of the hardtail options is probably the straightest path to the desired end result for me. Although I am seeing this "Pigtail Aluminum Wraparound" bridge that is described as having "a slightly lower profile to help solve high string action problems". I'm going to do just what you said. Make a full scale drawing, take a whole bunch of measurements and really consider my options. Thanks! H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hrothgar Posted June 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 Well I've done some measuring and you were right. None of the TOM bridges will work without cutting a 'seat' for them so they sit lower. Not a huge deal, but I'm not sure I have the tools to do a nice enough job creating the counter-sync. So... hardtail options. The Schaller non-tremolo roller bridge looks decent and loads from the back. Anybody tried this one and care to offer an opinion? Thanks! H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hrothgar Posted June 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 I'm interested in the G&L Saddle Lock Bridge... http://tinyurl.com/nq93z7 Any users? H Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fowl2338 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 Not to hijack your thread, but is there any sacrifice in sustain/tone with top loading as compared to stringing through the body? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted June 27, 2009 Report Share Posted June 27, 2009 I'm not sure how much you would notice the difference, but even a better quality top loading will be a tone gain over the original cheap trem. No experience with the G&L though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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