Jump to content

crap-o-la!.


Recommended Posts

ok I recently was informed that 1 1/2 inches is too thin a body size to put a floyd in. DAMMIT! Wes already suggested that i put a quilted maple top over my flamed maple top. just one major problem-O. I started contouring already and I like the way it looks. And I spent 4 hours sanding by hand to contour it. And I am doing a light stain so I want to have something that will look dandy with a blue/green carriburst stain. So i figure I'll just put something in between bottom and top. this will not only make my routing for the P/U's etc easier but it will make my life making the deep tenon neck pocket easier. I dont know maybe rock maple, birdseye maple. I don't really like mahogany. any suggestions for the plan and the wood?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A few options...

1) Put a 1/4" booked Maple cap on the bottom.

2) Keep your neck pocket cut a bit shallow, or cut it at an angle ala Gibson TOM-style. This will also -raise- the spot (depthwise) that the bridge wants to sit in.

This will raise the strings off the body more, but it can work.

3) Find a Floyd-type of bridge that isn't as long as a real Floyd. Ask Brian on this one. I've got a few different Floyd-type bridges, they're not all as deep as a real Floyd is.

You're not toast just yet. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For your first axe, I wouldn't sweat it too much.

Ask Brian, he might have an answer for you. I see that he stocks several different types of Floyds, he wouldn't steer you wrong. :D

I think the only real difference is wear characteristics, case hardening and all that.

And if you're building a Metal guitar, any small differences that you might notice tonally I think will be completely minimized. If you had some very clean pkps, you might notice a difference more...

Just my worthless .02.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Questions are always good. :D

The only bad question is the one that didn't get asked, as someone once said...

4 pieces don't mean diddly-bo-diddly to me, but maybe it does to you.

I could give you lots of different examples of bodies that have multiple pieces (way more than 4 sometimes) that sound fabulous.

But I understand your 'less is better' point of view.

I don't agree with it, but I understand where you're coming from. B)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how do you feel about the kahler flatmount?it doesn't require a back rout,only a small recess on the top.about $280 though.

sure you want a trem?

okay,do the math.my trem cavity on my floyd equipped guitar is 3/4" deep(back rout).it looks like you could get away with less.maybe if you make the back rout 1/2" deep and only rout your pickup cavities 3/4" deep,then you might get away with it.you will need a shorter tone block,which are available from allparts?

personally i would add a cap,or go with the kahler

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I bought a kramer striker body/neck off of ebay. I had a floyd II laying around. The kramer body is too thin for the floyd. The body looks like it's 1 5/8" thick (1/8" thicker than your body.) The tone block sticks out of the back so I keep the cover plate off. I even tried shimming the neck with a single-edge razor and raising the mounting posts but it killed the tone.

The tone block on my floyd measures 1 5/8" the shorter tone block from allparts that westhemann suggests is 1 3/8". This would probably benefit my situation but may not benefit yours (1/8" thinner body than mine.)

If you do decide to stay with a floyd, perhaps you can bring your stock tone block to a machinist to have it cut/drilled even smaller than the allparts piece.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

you can cut a full size block down for the floyd rose bridge thats what I did. I just dril the holes for the spring hooks deeper and then cut some off with a hacksaw and tryign to keep everything square and pretty and then used a file to clean it up. it tells u how to do this in "Guitar Player Repair Guide."

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Heh, big difference between brass and steel B). My floyd II might be brass, I can't tell but my old OFR has a big honkin' chunk of thick steel (it's slightly rusty :D) I shudder at the thought of trying to hacksaw that puppy :D. I was under the impression Nordic was going for an OFR.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For your first guitar, i would suggest trying something simpler than a "deep tenon" set neck with a carved laminated top. Once you have a little more experience (and confidence), you'll be much better equipped to tackle the tougher challenges.

Why not add another laminate to the back so the body is maple/mahogany/maple? Or maybe add another darker wood under the top to give a nice accent line?

Personally, i think it's a shame to invest all that money in nice tone woods only to cut away huge chunks of it to put in a Fender/Floyd style trem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...