Johnny Foreigner Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 I'm looking for a good straight(ish) edge that I can use to route a straight line using a template router bit. Would something like this: https://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4666-8364-1...2-aluminum.aspx which is not advertised as or designed as a straightedge be good enough? or do I need a precision straightedge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Foreigner Posted July 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 to qualify: I don't have a jointer to create my own straightedge from a piece of wood. could I just pick up a piece of lumber from Lowes on the basis that they surface all 4 sides, and one side would therefore be straight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 Buy a half decent hand plane. Half the cost of a crappy jointer, easier to sharpen, quieter, no dust, and you can make straightedges and invisible joints for the rest of your life. The Lowe's lumber is not going to be as straight as you probably want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireFly Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 Big box store is shipped across the country baring the weather. It then bakes in the sun outside the store under plastic till they need it. Then it goes into a big box store with inconsistent night and day conditions. Definitely not straight lumber... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madawgony Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 I'm looking for a good straight(ish) edge that I can use to route a straight line using a template router bit. Would something like this: https://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4666-8364-1...2-aluminum.aspx which is not advertised as or designed as a straightedge be good enough? or do I need a precision straightedge? How precise do you need? If I need to route a straight cut I cut 3/4" MDF to the length I need on the table saw. Straight edge* ready to use. *Depending on how well your table saw is set up, you can use the cut edge as is. If it needs a little touch up. hit it with a hand plan. Why MDF? Easy to mill, fairly inexpensive and very static (doesnt measurably shrink or expand). Cons - the dust is absolutely evil. Use a mask or dust collection when working with it. I make a majority of my templates and fixtures out of MDF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 I would never use the .002" tolerance or better over 2 feet type stuff for something like that (don't think it would keep the precision edge to that degree). Something more like a .005" tolerance. Cheapest(I mean, it better be free) I know of is laminate flooring scrap (put a want-ad on craigslist). Yeah, a weird "stepped edge" with each edge being less than 1/8" thick but my precision grounds show it's a pretty precise edge. If you could just get the bit's bearing to stay on that narrow edge for one pass, you could make a fatter edged guide onto another piece. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 9, 2010 Report Share Posted July 9, 2010 http://www.draftingsteals.com/catalog-draf...raightedge.html The tolerances on these are probably better than the aluminum from the hardware store. In my experience with aluminum from hardware is that store the accuracy varies extremely to the point I don't use them as router guides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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