I Feel Like Crying :(

[mm66554]

Don't laugh. I've been trying to refret my guitar for like a year now (took long for the tools to arrive). I only bought the tools I though were compulsory... files and stuff. But I didn't buy a fret bevelling file 'cos it was too expensive (hell I would have probably failed with that too). Buying a fret press was out of the question.

I used this:

I didn't even have a tool to cut a correct size slot... so I used a file which was slightly bigger. The radiused brass thing only felt firm till it actually was in use; it pressed all the frets in bent.

And here's the worst part... no matter what I did, every time I filed the angle in the frets and tried to make them smooth the the FB, the file would rip through any tape I used and dig into the fretboard. I only noticed how bad this was after taking all the masking tape off. How people do this I have no clue. Maybe the reason my frets were never smooth was because they weren't pushed in correctly. Maybe it's the fact that I didn't use a bevelling file and went with downward motions with a normal dressing file. Or maybe I'm just crap at this, either way, behold, the worst fret job you've seen:

So as you can tell I'm in urgent need of help. I completely messed up by frets and fretboard on this guitar = really angry and sad. Have no idea where to go from here. I wish there was an easy way to do this, I love the idea of refurbishing old guitar and building my own but that will probably never happen.

[Woodenspoke]

Lets start with the first issue

Are the frets in tight?

Buy a fret file, even a cheap one will be miles better than a 3 corner file. Also grind down thr edge of the file so it does not rip up the FB.

Use a razor blade to scrape inbetween the frets to remove the marks.

or Remove the frets and the board and start again using better tools.

[avengers63]

http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/beveltool.htm

home-made beveling file tutorial

my home-made beveling file

the base is some pine scrap

the file was less than $10

[mm66554]

my home-made beveling file

the file was less than $10

So you file it with the sloped side resting on your frets? Would you need to precision file the fret ends after manually to make sure they're not pocking over the FB, or would the bevelling file do the job on its own?

I have a circular saw (which I think can do angles), and I bought a fret bevelling file (without the wood) from Stewmac because I was going to make one... but stupidly thought I could do it manually better.

Edit: I was looking at the link when posting about the sloped side against frets, which seems easier to make with just a circular saw (when cutting the slot for the file).

Edited August 29, 2010 by mm66554

[mm66554]

Lets start with the first issue

Are the frets in tight?

Buy a fret file, even a cheap one will be miles better than a 3 corner file. Also grind down thr edge of the file so it does not rip up the FB.

Use a razor blade to scrape inbetween the frets to remove the marks.

or Remove the frets and the board and start again using better tools.

1. The frets are in tight, they won't move. I superglued them. It's just that they're not all sitting flat on the fingerboard. I can get my nail under some, but I can't pull them out with it.

2. I have a fret file I think: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Fretting_suppl...ssing_File.html

3. I'll try get a cheap file and modify it.

4. Would it be possible to fill in the gaps with something... I have a small container full of rosewood dust I kept from another project. Some of the chips are almost 1mm deep. Maybe I can mix the rosewood dust with something and use it as a filler, then sand and re-stain the fretboard?

[killemall8]

Well, after the 9th or so fret you mauled up... why did you not stop?

I just manually run the file up and down the side of the frets at an angle... then use a sanding block with 400 grit paper after to smooth it out.

[Southpa]

One of the most important aspects of ANY work done on a guitar is to monitor your progress. To do this you need various tools and other items that represent levels of precision. Where it comes to fretwork some of the most important items are straightedges of various lengths. I use a small steel block that spans over 3 frets, a 6" steel ruler, a 1 ft. steel ruler and a full 2' straight edge which helps me see the forest thru the trees. There are also items for measuring thicknesses and gaps, ie. thickness gauges and digital calipers. If you are doing things to specs then you need to be able to measure.

The next thing you need is a good idea of what you are doing. If you have any doubts then you must not begin work until you are darn sure, get your head right. You must play guitar or you would not be working on a guitar. Then again, I can't believe that my supervisor at work built himself a tele, (w/ some help) and he doesn't even know how to play the damn thing...go figure. Anyway, if you play guitar then you should have a good idea of how they work and what is right or wrong. If you only realized that the fretjob is no good ... after 9 frets... then you are obviously not monitoring your progress.

My advice? Heat the frets and pull them. Fret wire is relatively inexpensive. If the slots are too big then fill them all with native fb dust and glue mixture and recut to the proper size. Get rid of that screw press or practice with it on scrap. Make sure you have a level playing field, ie. truss rod should be adjusted so neck / fb surface is flat. I prefer to use a small brass hammer and "tap" the prebent frets in while making sure thay are uniform with the aid of a straightedge. Keep checking your work as you progress. All you have to do is get that first fret in right and remember how you did it...then repeat the process about 21 more times .

Just letting you know that its no big deal. I have my way of doing things and have had good success over MANY fretjobs. How do you get good? practice on lots of junk. Believe it or not the skill level required to fix an expensive guitar is about the same needed to fix a cheap piece of crap! For that matter, the cheap piece of crap is usually a bigger source of frustration than the guitar that is built to do what its supposed to do when turning the truss rod.

Edited August 30, 2010 by Southpa

[MP63]

I like the idea of heating them, but make sure you have enough wire for the whole neck, unless you have some of the same wire.

Make sure the slots are clean and that the edges of the slot are not perfectly square.

Run a triangle file on the edges just enough to take the edge off.

The tang and the head of the fret materiel is not perfectly square, and that can contribute to frets not seating all the way.

That is my observation.

If the frets are sitting real high, a wire cutter with a flat face will work in removing them.

The wood will, more than likely, chip so save that wood for gluing it back.

Clean the slots or deepen them, check for a straight fingerboard with the rod adjusted, and refret.

It isn't as hard as it seems.

Make sure you check the fret height as you file them down.

One high fret might wear down to nothing if it's too high while the rest near by might show no wear.

The high ones can be hammered down before you continue filing.

You just want to get the fret tops with a slight wear when taking them down.

The angle on the fret ends can be done by hand with a file.

Just watch the headstock for any damage the file may do.

Push the file in one direction only. Don't pull back against the frets.

It's not production, so take you time and enjoy the fun.

Fixing mess-ups are part of the excitement of building.

Is this too old school fretting?

That's how I remember it. It has been years since I worked on any guitars.

Divorce will make you live in the smallest of places.

Is that a Charvel neck? If so, what year is it?

I worked there in 1985-1986 and did the fretting.

I can't wait to one day have a garage again and start the passion again.

Guys with garages...appreciate them.

I wish I had one again.

Mike

[poptartpower]

Other than some cosmetics, I think you did awesome! You can look at those marks and say, "That was me. I made this work!" Don't get discouraged.

Maybe you could sand across the entire side of the fretboard and give it a brushed uniform look?

Hey, if you can't "fix it" then you ought to feature it!

-- Boris

[Musiclogic]

That clamp press was a pretty good idea, and probably could work great with a little more refining. Doesn't really look that bad. Should be able to be fixed, you can always use some edge banding or veneer to fill the gouging, or even epoxy for that matter. Avenger posted a great link, and there is plenty of good advice, just take your time. Plenty of people here to get you playing.

[mm66554]

It's a Jackson neck. I bought the guitar in 2006.

So there are two ways to go about fixing the chips (without replacing FB):

a. Buy a router + bits, cut around the fingerboard and install binding. Then replace the frets (or take out + clean the old ones).

or

b. Fill in the chips and sand a curve in the fingerboard (to compensate for the smaller marks). Then re-stain.

I will try b first, in fact, I filled in the chips with 20 grade superglue + rosewood dust today. While doing that I noticed some dents on the top surface of the fingerboard which I guess I bought the guitar with. Filled those in too. Tomorrow I will sand them flat, then sand a small curve in between each fret to smooth everything out. If this fails then I can try plan a.

I made a bevelling file today... was easy, 34 degree angle. Gave me the idea to use my circular saw for the fret press insert slot. Maybe I can then clamp the wood which holds it tight from the sides and it will push the frets in straight if I need to use it again (hoping a hammer will be OK next time).

I hope it turns out good. I enjoy modifying guitars (or thinking of future builds) almost as much as playing them. Will post update pix tomorrow to see what you guys think. Thanks for the tips.

Edited August 30, 2010 by mm66554

[Southpa]

The edges are no problem. Don't sweat it, you were just filing in the wrong direction! The American Std. strats (well, MY AM. Std. anyway) features what is called "rolled" fingerboard edges. Basically the corners are rounded and radiused for a more comfortable feel. So you can remove the marks without sacrificing too much fb width just make sure its done uniformly and in the right direction.

[ihocky2]

This is a pretty basic question, but I have not seen it asked yet. Do you have a PRECISION straightedge to check the flatness of the fretboard and to make sure the frets are level with? The majority of rulers are not straight enough along the edge to accurately check for level. You need one that is precisions ground.

Also, be carefull when sanding your superglue fills. Make sure you only take them level to the board so you are not creating dips in the fretboard and that you are not changing the radius.

[Woodenspoke]

In short my opinion is remove the frets (especially when they are not seated) and start again. Use a soldering iron to apply some heat as they are removed. It would be so much easier that messing with a disaster.

My first fret job was a mess so keep practicing. If your press device provides enough pressure and the the radius insert is the right size, then the slot prep is the issue. the wire must also be properly sized to the slot. On any refret dont expect the original wire to exact match the tang on the new fretwire. You may have to widen the slot or adjust a smaller tang to fit in a larger slot. It is never a matter of banging in new wire.

If you are in the states I believe Grizzly.com sells a standard fret file for cheap.

maybe the best thing is to find a video on the process so you can see how its done. Again in the states smartflix.com.

Good luck