Johnny Foreigner Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 So I bought a bookmatch set of quilted maple off of that there interwebs... in fact the set was 1" thick, which was way too thick for my needs so I had the seller resaw it again to produce 2 sets. However, in each set, one board has a reasonably significant bow to it, across the width, and a little along the length as well: what can I do / should I do to correct this and make these sets usable? They're not going to be carved, so I don't *need* the full thickness of them, but also I don't want to lose too much of the bookmatching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Firstly I would wet the concave side and clamp flat. See if that does anything after a couple days. That said... as long as you can get a good joint on the boards. By the time you glue them up (I'm assuming that's like 1/4" or less thick?) and crank the top down to glue onto a solid body... you should be just fine. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 Rick Toone gives a very nice answer. Drak has done something very similar but I am too lazy to look up the link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Foreigner Posted October 9, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 awesome, thanks guys. that's what PG is all about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrMuckle Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 Regarding Rick Toone's method, all you need after soaking the pieces in water and clamping them is one to two weeks of air drying? I thought it would take longer than that to be ready for gluing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 Regarding Rick Toone's method, all you need after soaking the pieces in water and clamping them is one to two weeks of air drying? I thought it would take longer than that to be ready for gluing. Depends were you keep them. A moisture meter is your friend at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 There's a BIG difference between drying wet wood, and dry WETTED wood. Dry wood that is still wet from being a tree takes about 1 year per inch of thickness. Drying wood that's been wetted, no so much. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireFly Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 should there be any worry about turning the wood punky or rotten? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted October 10, 2010 Report Share Posted October 10, 2010 No. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 My post about flattening wood is in the 'Prairie Dust' thread, and I am also too lazy to look it up . The only thing I wanted to mention is this: If you're going to wet and clamp them, be prepared to 'do your thing' as soon as you remove them from the clamps and they're dry, that same day. I've had pieces I wetted and clamped, which were flat as a pancake when removed, go back to warp state after a few days of sitting out, so now when I have to do that, I'm prepared to join, glue up, and glue down pretty much in the same day as I remove the pieces from the clamps (dry) when they're nice and perfectly flat and dry. I don't see any reason to wait and see if they're going to re-warp. If you're going to the trouble, and it works, may as well be prepared to slam it out same day. should there be any worry about turning the wood punky or rotten? For wood to turn punky and rotten takes many years and many infectious microbes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johnny Foreigner Posted October 11, 2010 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 There's a BIG difference between drying wet wood, and dry WETTED wood. Dry wood that is still wet from being a tree takes about 1 year per inch of thickness. Drying wood that's been wetted, no so much. Chris even though the method calls for *soaking* thoroughly for 30 mins or so? I'd have thought that would get the wood as wet as it's ever going to get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supplebanana Posted October 11, 2010 Report Share Posted October 11, 2010 but that's just wet with water... the original "moisture" is water, sap & any other "juices" in the tree. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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