iluvteles Posted November 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted November 30, 2010 After the advice by ResterationAD I used Tighbond original on the scarf joint. I used Poyurathane on these little bits just to use the poly up. Once it is gone I will only use Tightbond Original. The only glue ups I have left on this build is the fretboard and the neck joint. I will use Tightbond for both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted December 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2010 The neck is all profiled out now. The headstock was done freehand and I'm not 100% on the quality of the work but since its the 2nd spare neck it will have to do. I just did not want to sand anymore incase I went too far so this is it and if it bugs me a year from now then its all down to me and my pap freehand profiling. While profiling out I have unearther a small hole. What should I do with it. Superglue and sawdust? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted December 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2010 I have slotted the Wenge fretboard but I'm a bit concerned that I've made the board too thick. Its 8.7mm flat. The radius will probably eat away 2mm making the edges 6.7mm and 8.7mm in the centre. I'm thinking of running the back through the planner and removing 1.7mm off the total thickness. Any thoughts anybody? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted December 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2010 I now have the fretboard glued on and profiled. I'll radius the fretboard next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted December 8, 2010 Report Share Posted December 8, 2010 I have slotted the Wenge fretboard but I'm a bit concerned that I've made the board too thick. Its 8.7mm flat. The radius will probably eat away 2mm making the edges 6.7mm and 8.7mm in the centre. I'm thinking of running the back through the planner and removing 1.7mm off the total thickness. Any thoughts anybody? Sorry I didn't see this till now.... I do have some thoughts. You really do need to do the 'measure twice' thing. kidding - but on the FB thickness- I've used a thicker fretboard before to strengthen a weak-ish neck ( weak in my mind , I had no scientific proof ) . I don't think yours needed any reinforcing, so you could thin it out some. The headstock looks really nice so far. the fretboard too , nice board ! looks like it'll be a nice guitar once done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted December 8, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2010 Thanks for the reply and advice. I ran the board through the thicknesser down to 6mm and it looks better now. Yes the Wenge does look nice but its very chippy and even double sided tape pulls lamination away. I think once it is sanded and lemmon oiled then it will look nice. This neck was going to get a jatoba fretboard util the Wenge came along. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted December 17, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2010 (edited) OK I radiused the fretboard and I,m not 100% happy with it. It seems to be different radiuses along the length. Anyway I put the frets in and they did not seat properly at the edges where the radius was smaller and to round it off the 24th fret is standing proud at the edges and no amout of bashing down will make it stay down. I will have to pull it out but I just know that the wenge will come away also. AND I,ve bashed the frtboard with a fret hammer and it looks shite I think that this is scrap neck number 4 this year :'( Edited December 17, 2010 by iluvteles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted December 17, 2010 Report Share Posted December 17, 2010 Fretboards are removable. just sayin........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted December 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 I did consider taking the fretboard off but I dont have any Wenge left so decided to try and repair first and then see what happens. I pulled the high fret and replaced it. There was some chip out but nothing too bad as they were then covered with the new fret. As for the hammer marks I'm going to try and sand them out and then see what its like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ripthorn Posted December 18, 2010 Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 The approach that I have taken for frets is to use one of the radiused fret pressing inserts from stewmac in a block of hardwood and hammer the block. That way, you are seating the correct radius with no risk of hammer marks in the fretboard and without the cost of a fret press. It works incredibly well and I got the idea from avengers63 in one of his threads. Might try that on the next one, beats straight up hammering any day of the week. By the way, I am loving this build, keep it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted December 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 Thanks for the advice Ripthorn. I have a set of the stew mac brass insert and I did use them to press the frets in. The trouble was that the 12" radius on the fretboard was more like 9" at the sides, first time I have radiused. So the frets were sticking up at the sides so I bashed them down with a hammer thinking I could just hit them and all would be well. I have now lernt the hard way. I should have used a bit of wood on the fret and then hammer the wood. A beginners mistake I will not repeat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jessejames Posted December 18, 2010 Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 Why not take the frets out, re-radius the and scallop the fretboard? Might be able to save the neck that way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted December 18, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2010 I think I may have made thing seem worse than they are. The high fret is now sorted and the bash marks are a there but not the end of the world. I have wiped them with water to expand them a bit. It does help but does not cure it. I'll have to sand them out the rest of the way. I think I'll get away with it and its one of those things where I know its there and its agrevating but not the end of the world. I'm just going with it. as for scalloping, Ilove scalloped necks andI have a YJM strat but this year I have wrecked 3 necks trying to scallop them so I have given up on it. I know I'll call it custom relicking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted December 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 (edited) Not much activity just rounded over the edges. Edited December 28, 2010 by iluvteles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Well I've did it again and messed things up. This drilling is really bad and the machine heads wobble all over the place. I cant be bothered to drill and plug then re-drill because I'm loosing interest in this build so I'm looking for a way to bodge it up. I was thinking of fitting the machine head then pouring epoxy down to fill the gaps at the side. Any suggestions on what to do apart from get a grip of yourself and do the work to put it right i.e. plug and re-drill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ripthorn Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 You can always send the whole thing to me . Seriously, though, plugging it is the best way. I had to drill out and plug some bridge post holes 3 or 4 times on an old build, but it only resulted in a better playing guitar. Do it right, it's too darn nice of a build not to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Thanks for the reply Ripthorn. You are right I should plug and re-drill. I'm just a bit down about making so many mistakes on this build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CD1221 Posted January 3, 2011 Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 I have got to agree with Ripthorn - plug and do it properly. The body on this thing is bloody amazing. Wobbly tuner heads will drive you nuts for the rest of this guitar's life - it will only take an hour or so to fix. Keep at it, it looks killer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted January 3, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 3, 2011 Thanks for the reply's. Thats what I'll do. I'll drill a 12mm hole and plug it with a bit of Goncarlo. I'll do all 6 even though its the A and D that are the worst. I;ll do them all and hopefully gut them nice and snug. If I dont I will only regret it later. I just get a bit fed up with the stupid mistakes that I make. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted January 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 I'm planning on using Danish oil on the Goncarlo neck back. What do you all think about using danish oil on the Wenge fretboard also. OR should I use lemon oil on the wenge fretboard and danish on the Goncarlo back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 danish oil wont hurt the wenge fretboard. really the wenge doesnt need much, but if you are a bit liberal with the oil and some gets on the fretboard you may as well oil the rest of it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted January 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 If this was your guitar Wez what would you do to the Wenge fretboard? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 well i am usually a bit messy with oil - so it makes sense for me to go over the fretboard too, just make sure to rub off the excess after a few minutes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iluvteles Posted January 9, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 Thanks Wez. One more thing. If I do danish oil the Wenge fretboard does that mean I cannot then treat it with lemon oil once a year to clean and nourish the wood. I.e. will the Danish oil not let the lemon oil into the wood? One its Danished oiled is that the end of it like a laqured maple fretboard? If you understand what I'm getting at. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted January 9, 2011 Report Share Posted January 9, 2011 you can still use the lemon oil, its mainly just a cleaner anyway - but may find you dont need as much compared with an un-oiled board. TBH i tend to use danish oil again. it will do pretty much the same thing as the lemon oil but last longer. you may want to touch up the rest of the neck at the same time and its easy just to do the whole lot the same way Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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