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Neck-Thru Bass: First Project


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Specs:

Neck: Maple/Bolivian Rosewood 5 piece laminate.

Body: Maple body wings.

Fretboard: Bolivian Rosewood board. Fretless design with NO visible fret markings (side dots will exist on the actual fret positions for 3, 5, 7, 9, 12, etc per normal).

Hardware(going back and forth between black and gold):

    Schaller 463 bass bridge

    EMG-PJ Active Bass Pickup Set (eventually adding an on board pre-amp)

    Gotoh compact bass tuners

Body and headstock design.

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Wood for neck laminate

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Neck glued up.

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Neck blank out of clamps

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Scarf joint being glued.

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My first oops. Router jumped away from me. I was expecting something like this to happen since this is my first build but was still a little ticked at myself.

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Edited by maull
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Side profiles complete. Still need to thickness the neck and head.

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Rough cut of body wings completed. Inner horns routed to shape. Couldn't resist mocking it up a little.

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Spent a few hours building a router sled to profile the head and the back of the neck.

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Added a fillet above the truss rod channel.

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I love the body and headstock shape on this!

Thanks but I can't take too much credit on the design. The body shape is very similar to the Warmoth Gecko and the headstock is based on the Ibanez SoundGear. Since this is my first "from scratch" build I decided to take elements from two basses I really liked.

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That happens more than people are willing to admit Maull. It still takes an eye and a mind put together all the ingredients into a cohesive whole though. Just watch the direction you rout slots if you rout them full width as one way causes the router to bite in and away from the fence. Easy to patch in a few layered pieces of veneer in there to conform to the curve.

PJ pickup config eh? I am halfway through a replica build which will have a PJ and I believe that it is worthwhile making sure that the J has sufficient output to match the P. Do the EMG PJ sets counter for this imbalance?

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That happens more than people are willing to admit Maull. It still takes an eye and a mind put together all the ingredients into a cohesive whole though. Just watch the direction you rout slots if you rout them full width as one way causes the router to bite in and away from the fence. Easy to patch in a few layered pieces of veneer in there to conform to the curve.

PJ pickup config eh? I am halfway through a replica build which will have a PJ and I believe that it is worthwhile making sure that the J has sufficient output to match the P. Do the EMG PJ sets counter for this imbalance?

I am no electronics guru by any means. I don't have a solid technical answer for you, however my 2 main basses are a Ibanez SR800 with a PJ pickup config and a Schecter Studio 4 FL with soap bars. I much prefer the brightness and tone I get out of the PJ pickups compared to the mellower soap bars so I made this decision based on what I have read about this pickup set and my preferences. If anyone out there has anything to add experience-wise I am all ears.

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Had a little router mishap tonight. I was trimming down the laminate on the headstock and tightening up the shape by a few 16ths of an inch when I got a little tear out on one of the ears.DSC00802.jpg

So I am sitting looking at this and thinking "I can fix this". I look around and just see sawdust everywhere. I am starting to feel a little bummed when my wife shows up. I tell her I can't find the piece that tore out and she looks at the sawdust covered floor. I start to say "You are never gonna find it in there..." when she reaches down and grabs something. She hands it to me and says "How about this?" Wouldn't you know she found half of the tear out. I eventually found the other half a few feet away and glued the pieces back in place.

All clamped up. Finishing up the routing will have to wait until tomorrow when the glue dries thoroughly.

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Edited by maull
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Got a little more done yesterday.

Side dots installed.

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Rounding the neck profile started. I really enjoyed this part. It took a while with the rasp but it was nice to work intuitively rather than to a strict spec or measurement.<br />

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Rounding pretty much finished. I still have a few spots to tweak but will work on that tomorrow.

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Edited by maull
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Did a little smoothing to the head and neck looking for defects or areas to tweak a little bit.

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Body all clamped up. I routed a 1" deep slot in the lower wing to accomodate the wiring and drilled a hole from that slot to where the control cavity will be prior to gluing up. There will still be a bit more work on the neck to heel transition and general tweaking done to the neck once the body comes out of clamps.

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You can easily afford to carve the heel more. You don't need a gradually sloping heel like that for support. Your neck will be plenty strong enough with a more aggressive heel carve, and will also afford better higher fret access.

Chris

I was kind of thinking the same thing. Thanks for the input though, as this is exactly the kind of thing I was hoping to get out of posting this build. :D

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Did a little smoothing to the head and neck looking for defects or areas to tweak a little bit.

DSC00828.jpg

DSC00830.jpg

DSC00831.jpg

DSC00834.jpg

Body all clamped up. I routed a 1" deep slot in the lower wing to accomodate the wiring and drilled a hole from that slot to where the control cavity will be prior to gluing up. There will still be a bit more work on the neck to heel transition and general tweaking done to the neck once the body comes out of clamps.

Nice build, and nice VTX.

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I hope the geometry works out for you. My first bass ended up going to the trash because I did not plan it around the neck angle first and foremost. No neck angle means deep set pickups and a recessed bridge or the fretboard sitting high relative to the face of the body.

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I decided that I will be recessing the bridge. Live and learn I guess. It would suck to lose all the work I have done so far but if it doesn't turn out correctly the wood is the cheapest part of this build.

Body routed out to shape. Need to start ordering more parts so I can keep going.

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Last pass with the router left me with a little tear out. I am pretty sure my router bit is starting to dull a little. Thankfully this will be taken care of when I round the back edge over.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Control knob holes drilled.

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Input jack recess started.

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Drill bit wandered when drilling the actual input jack hole. It has since been fixed by gluing in a dowel and redrilling.

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Bridge mounted and strung up to see how much of a recess I will need.

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Control cavity and battery box routed out. Still have to route for the control cavity cover.

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