demonx Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 There has been plenty of "beginner paint" questions lately so I figured I'd throw out a basic trick that I have to do from time to time. When you get a run in your clear, you can't just sand it back as you often sand through the clear either side of it... so: Run two strips of tape either side of your run. These pieces of tape act like a router sled for your razor blade and protect the clear around your run. As long as you keep your blade onto these pieces of tape, you're not going to scratch through your clear. You can either scratch the run back or you can try slicing it off. If you see the tape start to break up - you're pushing too hard IF SLICING - Dont slice the whole way through as it'll rip the clear up all the way back to the wood. Try alternating front to back or the run and try jiggling the blade rather than pushing the blade. Scratching is much safer. You're not trying to get it flush. You're just getting it back so it's sandable with the rest of the surface. This way lowering your chance of sanding through. I hope at lest one person learns something from this! Cheers. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mender Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Very useful and very successful. I used that method many years ago when I was renovating a cabinet. Just make sure you use low tack tape to avoid the possibility of pulling the finish off when you remove the tape Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Excellent post DX. I think a thread that features a bunch of expienced builders posting little tips precisely like this one could be pretty useful.....particularly to those just starting. I bet most of us will have Doh-why didn't I ever think of that moments as well. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted July 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 Just make sure you use low tack tape to avoid the possibility of pulling the finish off when you remove the tape I only use 2k. 2k clear will not pull. If you do damage it in any way then you haven't left it long enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maull Posted July 23, 2012 Report Share Posted July 23, 2012 I use a similar method except I use scotch tape and wrap it on the razor blade. I have never had any issue cutting through the tape but your method offers a good solution for harder to access spaces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shad peters Posted July 31, 2012 Report Share Posted July 31, 2012 Obviously the ultimate goal is just to avoid runs which I do.... most of the time, but I can definately think of some times when I wish I would have known this trick, I can think of more than one occasion where I caused more damage than I cured with a razor. Thanks for sharing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted August 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 TIP FOR THE DAY: PREPSOL. Prepsol is a wax and grease remover. Normally, I would prepsol a paintjob before laying basecoats - however today for some stupid reason, I decided I didn't need to. Start laying paint - BANG - a thumb print. Our body oils are one of paints natural enemies, along with dust we carry in on our skin and clothes. We can't see the oil we spread when we handle things, yet when the paint hits the oil, its doesn't like it. Becomes clearly visable, also means theres not 100% adhesion in the contaminated spots which could cause paint failure in the future.. The fix: sand back and do it again. The prevention : Prepsol. Prepsol has it's own devils. You need to wipe it on with one rag, wipe it off with another rag, as you also need to get all the prepsol off or it'll create its own non adhesion contamination. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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