icetrey Posted August 30, 2012 Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Hey, I've done a lot of searching on here and Google but can't find many answers on this type paint. I've used the Nitro from Stew Mac over the Vinyl Sealer with decent results but would like to try the 2 part finishes. Some of the questions I have: 1)What brand do you use and where do you buy it from? 2)Does it come clear and you mix the color with dye or must you buy it already colored and also buy clear to go over it? 3) I read on one post that it can be applied straight to wood with no sealer or primer. Can this be done without grain showing through the finished product? 4) I've read it's curing time is a lot quicker than nitro. I'm not in a big hurry, but curious to what the average curing time is? Any additional info is greatly appreciated. I'd like to know as much as I can. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icetrey Posted August 30, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2012 Question 2 should say mix the clear* with dye. Sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted September 1, 2012 Report Share Posted September 1, 2012 Im a 2 part noobie, but I do know some answers 1) too many out there man... 2) yes and yes. Some people mix their own colors with clear, some paints come premixed. 3) Yes, just expect to put on a few coats to get proper build. It doesnt "soak in" like nitro, so it will be more stable. If you apply it thin enough, yeah you can see some grain. 4) MUCH quicker. faster curing = faster to cut/buff the guitar and get it finished! Also means you can add more coats faster. Ill add, nitro is super flammable, its caustic, and isn't a particularly protective or stable finish (temperature affects it a LOT, very soft on a hot day, very brittle on a cold day, etc). The flip side, most 2 part paints are absolutely evil, and contain every known carcinogen known to man haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icetrey Posted September 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2012 Thanks for your info. One of my concerns at this point is price. To get the Nitro Paint, Vinyl Sealer, and Lacquer Reducer from Stew Mac would be $60. Plus the three colors I need (I think the ones I used before went bad but I'm not sure of their shelf life and have no way to test them without buying the Lacquer first) are another $42. From your experience would a 2 part finish be a lot more than $100? If you don't mind saying what does it cost you, approximately? Again, any other info and/or opinions are appreciated. PS: The epoxy advice you gave me worked great. And only used a lil over one tube/set. I'll try to post pics of results on that topic soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted September 2, 2012 Report Share Posted September 2, 2012 Hahaha - 2k cheaper than $100??? You can buy cheapo 2k brands BUT the finished product looks like compared to the quality ones and you'll be well over your hundred bucks even with the cheapest brands I know of. I use PPG which is one of the dearer brands, but I'll give you a cost run down as an example. These prices are based on the smallest tin size of each product: Primer: $280.00 + hardner $80.00 + reducer $70.00 Color $80 or more + reducer (use same as above) Clear $480.00 + hardner $80.00 + reducer ( same as above ) So this amount will paint many guitars, but it's the smallest amount I can buy in one hit, so start cost for PPG is about a grand or so. I know the price of paint is way cheaper in other countries, but not enough to fit in your budget. I'm currently trailing cheaper clear, but it's still over $300 a tin plus hardner and reducer. Add to the cost of product the cost of safety gear. Spray equip id you don't have suitable guns/compressor etc. It gets quite expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icetrey Posted September 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2012 I've got the proper gear, just need new filters for my mask. But yea, that is definitely out of my range. Especially considering I don't get many opportunitys to refinish guitars, so it would leave a lot of unused paint. Thanks for the information though. Hopefully it's something I can look into in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 Hahaha - 2k cheaper than $100??? You can buy cheapo 2k brands BUT the finished product looks like compared to the quality ones and you'll be well over your hundred bucks even with the cheapest brands I know of. I use PPG which is one of the dearer brands, but I'll give you a cost run down as an example. These prices are based on the smallest tin size of each product: Primer: $280.00 + hardner $80.00 + reducer $70.00 Color $80 or more + reducer (use same as above) Clear $480.00 + hardner $80.00 + reducer ( same as above ) So this amount will paint many guitars, but it's the smallest amount I can buy in one hit, so start cost for PPG is about a grand or so. I know the price of paint is way cheaper in other countries, but not enough to fit in your budget. I'm currently trailing cheaper clear, but it's still over $300 a tin plus hardner and reducer. Add to the cost of product the cost of safety gear. Spray equip id you don't have suitable guns/compressor etc. It gets quite expensive. I use wattyl. Much cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted September 3, 2012 Report Share Posted September 3, 2012 I use wattyl. Much cheaper. I've only ever used wattle once. Wasn't on a guitar, was on a car, I hated it so never tried it again. May have just been a bad experience. It was a tin of orange, 4lt I bought for $30.00 as it was a miss matched color! Sprayed it on a chevy. I can't even remember what I didn't like about it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted September 4, 2012 Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 Paints are much cheaper over here in the USA a GOOD quart of clear will still set you back 150$ though.... (Better then 400+!) Last stuff I bought (clear), it was 80$ for a quart, 80$ for the hardner, and I just used xylene to reduce it (15$ a gallon). when I can get it to dry, it comes out well enough for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted September 4, 2012 Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 bob - when we were helping you with your "not curing" problem, you never mentioned you're not using correct reducer! You can't just throw anything in and hope it'll work, you need to match the products carefully as they are designed react together. I have a shelf full of different reducers for different applications. SOME I will use with other brands/products, but some products I'll be very strict as to use only certain brand/type etc. It's best to mix only what is meant to be mixed. When I was painting a car (using over $2000 worth of paint) I had a paint failure. The company technician came to my workshop to check out the process/products etc. I was using all their products according to the specs they recommend all the way down to their brand filler etc etc. If its their fault they'll replace everything. If you just happen to mix something thats not in their process, even a tiny drop ... warranty = void. It's always best to follow the instructions unless you know better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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