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5-string Rickenbacker 4003-ish bass


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Cleaned up and given a quick wipe of shellac. Just curious to see how it would look.

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I'm still tempted to go for the full 5-ply instead of 3-ply, however I'm certainly thinking that simpler is more graceful rather than cramming in the bling. That's just not me.

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It's only very small on the workpiece though; the outer binding is 1,5mm x 5mm (about 1/16th x 3/16th) and the two inner plies are 0,3mm x 3mm each. I'm not going to rush right into getting it bound up so I can see how I feel about that weight of binding. Increasing the thickness of the two inner plies might give it a more appropriate visual weight. Currently it is very light and delicate, so can be easily lost visually.

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  • 2 weeks later...

The summer shutdown at the place where I do most of my larger-scale work has slowed this one down considerably. I have time available to go in this week however so I re-thicknessed the laminates and brought them back home to glue up....

Now, I decided to double up the Walnut pinstripes for more weight. This makes the whole thing a 9-piece laminate with 8 surfaces to apply glue onto before clamping up. Because I use Titebond I (it's the best for the job, this is not a debate) the open time means I have to work very swiftly. I might try some Titebond Extend in the future however.....

This means doing a full dry fit, having all the clamps to hand, and knowing your exact procedure from beginning to end.

Dry fit with clamping cauls:

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The procedure is to take one laminate from the back of the stack, "push" it over to reveal the glueing face and run a thick beading of Titebond over the face....

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Spread it with a rubber squeegee until it forms a consistent wetted surface and glue film:

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Rinsed and repeated until everything was stacked. By this point it was an effort to push laminates into position, but not a chore. This is where I am unhappy with the glueup. I think I need more clamps, and I used 16....12 heavy duty and 4 lighter duty. This might have left me short of the ideal clamping pressure, but we'll see tomorrow when I unclamp and joint up this blank. It's possible that the outer laminates need replacing, however I can deal with that.

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Looks like some important progress, @Prostheta

I use Titebond Extend for all of these kinds of job.  To me, in all respects other than the workability time, it seems identical to standard Titebond.  But the benefit of that extra working time is, again for me, invaluable.  

On something like a neck laminate with standard titebond, I feel that the glue at the end I started at is often already getting draggy by the time I'm trying to squeegee it.  Also, one small delay (eg a short reposition of the clamping set up) and I often find myself in difficulties.

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The positioning time is quite short if you only apply glue onto one of a pair of surfaces. Ideally both need to be wetted with glue otherwise you're relying on clamping pressure to transfer from the wet surface to the dry one. In the real world this is rarely a problem, however it is a common form of glue joint failure....

Yes, Titebond-I is fairly thick as it stands. If it weren't for the fact that it adds more water I would either spritz the other face or apply glue to both. By that point, hydrostatic pressure causes laminates to slip and fly around the place....

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If your gluing surfaces have been prepped nice and flat, and I'd be totally shocked if they weren't, I'll bet those joints look fine. I've been a lifelong fan of using as much clamping force as I can physically muster, but I must say I've been impressed by some of the joints I've gotten on the mando, using things like clothes pins, rubber bands, go bars, violin clamps and gently squeezed C-clamps.

SR

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Birch is pedantic stuff. Do anything to it and suddenly it's like the Lament Configuration from Hellraiser. All my laminates were flat this morning and I took 1,2mm off each of them. It's like summoning a fate demon. Once Birch has settled it's stable as anything. Complaining and bitching during work is normal.

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Yeah, I still happy with the outer laminates so I jointed them off. The way I do this with tapers involved is to set the cut depth a mm or two and cut the thick end until somewhere in the middle, I then flip the piece and let it ride on the edges of these so it eventually cuts itself flat. Anyway.

Clamps set up and good to go with a pair of thick cauls. Bead 'er up.

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Squeegee smooth.

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I quickly flipped the lot up, applied a small clamp over the thick end (since they're tapered, pressure will try and squidge the central laminate out), plus a couple of clamps to keep it all aligned. I love these clamps. Really awesome power. I'm sure that they develop about 1500lbs or so, and with a cheater bar you might get a few hundred more! I used Titebond I....that's just an old Titebond-III bottle I re-used since my gallon bottle is a bit clumsy....

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End of the day, all cleaned up and thicknessed.

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Four of those, shortened for body blanks would be ideal for the enthusiast luthier with deeper pockets. I bet that if you're handy with a welder you could easily make those up. The one closest to the edge has a nasty tendency to fall off the table. The stupid response is to try and catch it.

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You've got it. People think I'm weird when I'm working because I flip tools and workpieces around with my hands, manipulating them. I work fast. When I drop things, they move very quickly also....even worse to go chasing after them!

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