Rockhorst Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 Sorry for my n00bness...is that fretboard end behind the slot a separate piece, or still attached (how did you get the curve?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 That's the end of the fretboard... I've rounded it before glueing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockhorst Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 (edited) I didn't mean to refer to the top rounded curve. It seems that the bottom follows the angle of the headstock, right? That's what I meant to ask Edited September 12, 2016 by Rockhorst Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 The headstock is being bound also which should give you opportunity to hide it from the side. The nut should do the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockhorst Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 1 minute ago, Prostheta said: The headstock is being bound also which should give you opportunity to hide it from the side. The nut should do the rest. Totally, I see how that would work out nicely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted September 12, 2016 Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 29 minutes ago, Rockhorst said: I didn't mean to refer to the top rounded curve. It seems that the bottom follows the angle of the headstock, right? That's what I meant to ask No, there's no curve... maybe is just an optical illusion. My headstock plate is made with 3 veneers. Here's a graphic: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockhorst Posted September 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2016 I see what you mean now Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockhorst Posted September 21, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Routed the truss rod cavity. Overall, it went well. The free end didn't want to go flat and I misjudged the reason for it (should've gotten calipers out). It was easily fixed with a file, but I have routed the rounded wider bit a little too deep. There would only be a millimeter of wood left if I would stick to my intended neck thickness at the nut. The fix for that I guess is it's gonna be a chunky neck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 Ah, bummer man. Well, chalk it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdshirtman Posted September 21, 2016 Report Share Posted September 21, 2016 The deeper than intended route dictating your neck thickness is kind of a big deal IMHO. Unless you really like a chunky neck it could be the difference between playing enjoyment or hating the guitar depending on your preferences. Its not too late to fill that slot with a piece of maple and re-route it. Its rather simple to do and remember that once the fretboard on no one will ever see it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
killemall8 Posted September 22, 2016 Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 You could also make the fretboard a little thinner. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockhorst Posted September 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 (edited) Well, the neck blank being a bit thinner to start with might come in handy here. I read somewhere that I should at least have 3 mm of wood left behind the truss rod. That would give me a neck thickness of about 20.5 to 21.5 mm from 1st to 12th fret, which is what a Regius is according to the specs. Also, I have a custom Fender Strat with basically a baseball neck (1 pc maple of 21 mm all along the length) and that plays like a dream. So with the right curve, a thick neck is not really a problem for me. Overall, I'm pretty satisfied with this attempt, route being dead straight in the center and mostly at the correct depth. Having said that, it may still be a good idea to fill that part of the route, for some extra stability. I'll check the radius of the bit and see if I can find a properly sized dowel. Edited September 22, 2016 by Rockhorst Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockhorst Posted September 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 Some numbers: Truss rod: 8mm at thinnest point, 10 mm at the end Route for truss rod end: 12,5 mm (oops) Neck blank: 19,5 mm Fret board: 6 mm before sanding/radiusing So for 20.5mm at 1st fret I'd be 1 mm too thin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 22, 2016 Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 Either turn a replacement piece on a lathe or chuck up a piece of square scrap in a drill and file it down to diameter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockhorst Posted September 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 (edited) It's gonna be the latter I guess There's a big list of tools that I don't own (yet) and a lathe is definitely on there hehe. Thanks for the tip with the drill, nice one! I don't have maple rods lying around, but I'm guessing most any hard wood dowel would work? Do I need to worry about the grain? (also, I think I only have to fill up the bit under the rod. The access channel should be fine, as the headstock is curving away from there on) Not really visible in the picture: I also managed to route a nice, tiny and (most importantly) square recess for the nut, solving my previous problem with the veneer. Worked very well! Edited September 22, 2016 by Rockhorst Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 22, 2016 Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 Grain direction shouldn't matter really! Match it up if you have the chance of course. I guess Maple dowel stock would be fine if you have that on hand....definitely not softwood unless there is no other reasonable option! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdshirtman Posted September 22, 2016 Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 If it were me I'd re-route that part a with a straight bit then fill with a square piece of filler vs a dowel. Once its dry then route to the desired depth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 22, 2016 Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 Hey John! Good hearing from you man. I agree though. That's a simpler route for a better fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockhorst Posted September 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2016 (edited) Sounds good., except I don't have an appropriate router bit for that. I'll ponder on this for a few days. The expenses for tools and router bits are slowly going through the roof. The hardware store carries beech, would that work? I can get the maple filler, but that's a bit more difficult. Edited September 22, 2016 by Rockhorst Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdshirtman Posted September 23, 2016 Report Share Posted September 23, 2016 5 hours ago, Prostheta said: Hey John! Good hearing from you man. What's up Carl, trying to get back into the swing of things 2 hours ago, Rockhorst said: Sounds good., except I don't have an appropriate router bit for that. I'll ponder on this for a few days. The expenses for tools and router bits are slowly going through the roof. The hardware store carries beech, would that work? I can get the maple filler, but that's a bit more difficult. Well the nice thing is that once you start to accumulate tools the financial hit of building does lighten up a bit. Beech would work but personally I'd fill it with the same species as you made the neck with. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockhorst Posted September 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2016 (edited) On 23-9-2016 at 2:30 AM, sdshirtman said: Well the nice thing is that once you start to accumulate tools the financial hit of building does lighten up a bit. Beech would work but personally I'd fill it with the same species as you made the neck with. Too soon to say for sure, but there's a good chance that it'll be just this one guitar, maybe two. Building a guitar has been on my bucket list since my early teens so I'm happy it's coming together finally. But for some reason, even a very little amount of work makes my lungs prickly and uncomfortable, with some coughing for a couple of hours. I work outside, wear a half face Moldex respirator with p100 filters, have a fan sending air away from me and afterwards douse my clothes in water...And still...this greatly concearns me. Anyway, I went with the 'drill press as a lathe'-way and reduced a 10 mm dowel to fit the channel and rounded the end. Fits nice and snug, the glue is now drying. Edited September 24, 2016 by Rockhorst 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 24, 2016 Report Share Posted September 24, 2016 That's what they all say. That's what they ALL say.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockhorst Posted September 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2016 Well, I definitely have some more plans in my head. A LP junior style guitar and a Flying V would be great to build. So that might materialize. But the cough seems to get easier and easier to trigger. Doing a little bit of work (say an hour of routing, including setting up jigs and such) and then having to pay for days will get really annoying quite fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted September 25, 2016 Report Share Posted September 25, 2016 I was thinking that also. Once Nina's SG Jr, my 5-string Rick and the Lancaster are done and dusted, I'd like to work on a few things including a '67 Flying V in the same spec as Jim Martin's circa The Real Thing. Les Paul Jrs are a blast. If you get the neck pocket just so and drop in a compensated wrapround, they're dirty little machines. Totally what I'm aiming for with Nina's SG Jr anyway. Pick up, plug in and rock on a valve amp pushed hard, riding the volume for tone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rockhorst Posted September 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 26, 2016 I know of more than a few people who have a lots of awesome guitars, but their favorites are Jr.s because they just ooze rock n roll. Haven't fallen in love myself in that sense, but I like the direction Nik Huber took the basic design with the Krautster II. As for V's: either a classic looking Korina+pickguard kind of guitar, or something more fancy/modern without a top rout and some fancy wood top. So yeah, there's definitely some things on the wish list Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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