steve1556 Posted July 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 Thanks for the words of wisdom, it's actually made me realise that I've been making a complete and utter school boy error! My initial templates I cut right near the line, then been sanding them back to the line, which is fine, but then when I cut a rough template out on thicker material, I'm obviously cutting it far too close to the template line, which sometimes goes below the thinner template outline. I've got the MDF templates coming from G&W, after seeing what happened to the acrylic templates on another thread, it had put me off them slightly. When the templates turn up, I'm going to have a quick go at practicing copying them onto another sheet of MDF. I've started cutting out the templates from the paper plans for ready for the next build, so while I'm awaiting bits and pieces to turn up, I'll can practice on the templates! I've been making a shopping list of various parts that I think I need, I'll post them up tomorrow when I think I've finished the list. I have also been looking at getting my own router as I'm not happy with my dads one, I think it's a good router and can use both 1/4 and !/2 bits in it router Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 20, 2016 Report Share Posted July 20, 2016 At the very least you've figured out a flaw in your processes. You can build on that. What's this about problems with acrylic templates? Bearings burning through them? I must have missed that one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted July 21, 2016 Report Share Posted July 21, 2016 On 7/19/2016 at 3:31 PM, Prostheta said: I hate the heat also. Really screws me up. You guys are not alone, I had to put my build in stand by due to the heat, and still there's another hot month to come... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve1556 Posted July 22, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 On 7/20/2016 at 9:32 PM, Prostheta said: At the very least you've figured out a flaw in your processes. You can build on that. What's this about problems with acrylic templates? Bearings burning through them? I must have missed that one. That's very true. The templates for the Strat have arrived today, once again they were extremely well packed! I'm going to trace them onto the 15mm or 18mm MDF sheet that I've got and start to cut them out (this time making sure to leave more then enough room for the router bit!). Most likely I won't use the router today, I'm absolutely shattered and don't trust myself to use many power tools. I saw on a thread that the acrylic template looked like it shattered, I'll see if I can find it. On 7/21/2016 at 9:42 AM, psikoT said: You guys are not alone, I had to put my build in stand by due to the heat, and still there's another hot month to come... Thankfully the weather here has cooled down a lot, hoping work don't call me tomorrow as I'm on Standby at 3:30am so then I can get time to work on the guitar a bit more. I've got a fan in the garage, but it's not very good when it's just blowing hot air onto me! Thinking about investing in a mini air-con unit if it gets too hot again. How long is your build on hold for? I've made a little list of bits that I need for the neck part of the build, if someone could double check to make sure that I've got everything, that would be highly appreciated! Fret saw Miter box Fret edge bevel file Fret leveling file Nut slot file Fret hammer Fret cutter Fret end file(s) I've also been looking at nut files and as I understand it, I need 6 different files which cost just over £10 each, so would a file tool like this work well for a few guitars link Also, I'm a little bit lost on the truss rod. I'm not sure what size I would need, or even which one! Would this one from G&W be good? Or would one with a shorter Allen key bit be more ideal? My plan is to have the truss rod adjustment bit coming out at the headstock and not at the base of the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 22, 2016 Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 I don't use fret levelling files. A good straightedge with sandpaper works just as well. Grab a steel box section from the hardware store and ask a local machinist or blade sharpening shop to grind it flat and true on all four faces. I'll do a video on that if I can sometime.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted July 22, 2016 Report Share Posted July 22, 2016 3 hours ago, steve1556 said: How long is your build on hold for? One more month, I guess... Those nut files look really crappy, I can not imagine myself slotting a bone with them... I would suggest to invest in a better set if you're planning to make more guitars. I have something like this and they are worth the price: https://guitarsandwoods.com/hosco-double-edge-nut-files-for-electric-guitar-set.html?search=nut&page=3 From your list I'm missing a nice radiousing block, not sure if you already have one though. Take one which is long: https://guitarsandwoods.com/16-aluminium-radius-sanding-beam-for-fingerboard-fretboard.html?search=16 I'm missing also a crowning file. Some people don't like them but they work for me: https://guitarsandwoods.com/hosco-double-side-fret-crowning-file-large.html?search=crown And see some things that can be done with the same file, like the fret bevels, endings, and levelling (besides Pro's advice, which is the best option). To cut them you can use some pliers(?) or a dremel with a cutting disc (my favorite) and you can use a common rubber hammer... no need to spend big money on these things, but spend it on some others things which are more important. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 Yeah, sets of proper nut files are a heavy investment but totally set your work apart once you start working with them. I get to cheat since I use zero frets. I reviewed the G&W Radiusing Beams. Whilst radiusing beams are all radiusing beams, the price makes them a winner.http://www.projectguitar.com/product_reviews/tools_and_consumables/gw-aluminium-radiusing-beam-r14/ I use a crowning file too, @psikoT. I mean, there are several ways to achieve the same end but that file always gets me most of the way there on its own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 23, 2016 Report Share Posted July 23, 2016 I made my own fret edge bevelling file using an old Stewmac wood radiusing block with a slot cut in it on the table saw. Not the best, but it does the trick. If I came across a huge block of Nylon or some weight of PE, that would soon end up replacing the wooden block.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve1556 Posted July 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2016 On 7/22/2016 at 8:56 PM, psikoT said: One more month, I guess... Those nut files look really crappy, I can not imagine myself slotting a bone with them... I would suggest to invest in a better set if you're planning to make more guitars. I have something like this and they are worth the price: https://guitarsandwoods.com/hosco-double-edge-nut-files-for-electric-guitar-set.html?search=nut&page=3 From your list I'm missing a nice radiousing block, not sure if you already have one though. Take one which is long: https://guitarsandwoods.com/16-aluminium-radius-sanding-beam-for-fingerboard-fretboard.html?search=16 I'm missing also a crowning file. Some people don't like them but they work for me: https://guitarsandwoods.com/hosco-double-side-fret-crowning-file-large.html?search=crown And see some things that can be done with the same file, like the fret bevels, endings, and levelling (besides Pro's advice, which is the best option). To cut them you can use some pliers(?) or a dremel with a cutting disc (my favorite) and you can use a common rubber hammer... no need to spend big money on these things, but spend it on some others things which are more important. I know those neck files look really crappy, but I was hoping to try and save myself around £60, as the cost of the various tools that I need are really starting to mount up (and there was me thinking the guitar build would be a cheaper option then buying a nice Strat and saving my credit card being punished!). For the Radius block, I got one the other week from G&W. I got the 2 Kramer Pacer Satchel signature models a few months ago and they use a 9.5" radius and I really like that, so I've decided to do the Strat in that. I'll stick one of those crowning files on my order. I've got a Dremel style tool, if I put a cutting disc on it I would be worried about catching the wood, or would I leave 1-2mm of fret sticking out and file the excess off? I've got some wire cutters to cut small wires that I use for my effect pedal builds, would they work as well or not be strong enough? For the hammer, I've got a big rubber mallet, it's got a massive head though, so would a hammer like this work well linky 19 hours ago, Prostheta said: I made my own fret edge bevelling file using an old Stewmac wood radiusing block with a slot cut in it on the table saw. Not the best, but it does the trick. If I came across a huge block of Nylon or some weight of PE, that would soon end up replacing the wooden block.... If I had an old Block and a file that would be an option. Actually it's a great idea! Unfortunately I don't have either which leaves buying one as the best option for now. 19 hours ago, Prostheta said: Yeah, sets of proper nut files are a heavy investment but totally set your work apart once you start working with them. I get to cheat since I use zero frets. I reviewed the G&W Radiusing Beams. Whilst radiusing beams are all radiusing beams, the price makes them a winner.http://www.projectguitar.com/product_reviews/tools_and_consumables/gw-aluminium-radiusing-beam-r14/ I use a crowning file too, @psikoT. I mean, there are several ways to achieve the same end but that file always gets me most of the way there on its own. It was the price and your review that made me get the G&W radius block! I got the smaller one, but next time I need one I'll be getting the longer one. Absolutely great quality, and I'm really looking forward to trying it out. Thanks for the 2nd vote of confidence in the crowning file, I'll definitely be sticking one onto my order. While writing this post, I've come to the conclusion that maybe buying a pre-slotted nut is another option I have for this build, and save the 2 bone nut saddles that I've got for another build. I'm not 100% ready to place my big order at G&W, so I've got a little bit of time to decide. On 7/22/2016 at 5:15 PM, Prostheta said: I don't use fret levelling files. A good straightedge with sandpaper works just as well. Grab a steel box section from the hardware store and ask a local machinist or blade sharpening shop to grind it flat and true on all four faces. I'll do a video on that if I can sometime.... That's not a bad idea and is worth looking into. I've seen the cost of the straight edge at G&W, depending on the cost of a block plus machining costs, depends on the route that I will most likely take. Most likely though, I think buying the straight edge will ultimately work out cheaper. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted July 24, 2016 Report Share Posted July 24, 2016 4 hours ago, steve1556 said: I've got a Dremel style tool, if I put a cutting disc on it I would be worried about catching the wood, or would I leave 1-2mm of fret sticking out and file the excess off? I've got some wire cutters to cut small wires that I use for my effect pedal builds, would they work as well or not be strong enough? You always have to leave 1-2mm of fret sticking out, no matters the tool you use to cut it. Then file the excess off. If the wire cutter is not very strong and sharp, it tends to deform the fretwire in the ends while cutting. I don't have a good one, so I use the dremel instead. The problem with the dremel is that you have to cut the fret off very quickly, otherwise it tends to heat the metal, with the risk of burning the wood. Nothing serious, just something to keep in mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 If you've got a bench grinder you can make your own fret end nippers from a regular set of electricians' end nippers by grinding the faces down to flatten them to a true flush cut. They're no good for stainless steel frets, but you'd be hard pressed to find any set of end nippers that will cut SS without being destroyed. These were a pair of generic of Crescent end nippers from the hardware store, maybe 30 or 40AUD at the time. You should undoubtedly be able to get them cheaper if you hunt around: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 I'm slightly different because I cut and grind my fretwire almost to length before I fret. My normal procedure is to work from the upper frets downwards, so that if I accidently cut or grind one too short, it will fit further down the neck. I don't like cutting frets on the neck for the same reason @psikoT states; distortion from twisting. If you are like me and cut the tangs back however, distortion is less likely from "squashing" of the fretwire instead of cutting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve1556 Posted July 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2016 On 7/25/2016 at 10:12 AM, Prostheta said: I'm slightly different because I cut and grind my fretwire almost to length before I fret. My normal procedure is to work from the upper frets downwards, so that if I accidently cut or grind one too short, it will fit further down the neck. I don't like cutting frets on the neck for the same reason @psikoT states; distortion from twisting. If you are like me and cut the tangs back however, distortion is less likely from "squashing" of the fretwire instead of cutting. That's a good idea to not waste any fret wire, may try that. When you say you cut the tangs back, is that the bit that goes into the fretboard? I saw a guy cutting the part that goes into the fretboard shorter, then after the fret is installed, he fills it with super glue and the saw dust left over from when he radiused the board. It looked really nice when done. I was thinking of creating a little holder to hold the fret wire in the right order for when I cut the fret wire so it doesn't get mixed up. On 7/25/2016 at 5:06 AM, curtisa said: If you've got a bench grinder you can make your own fret end nippers from a regular set of electricians' end nippers by grinding the faces down to flatten them to a true flush cut. They're no good for stainless steel frets, but you'd be hard pressed to find any set of end nippers that will cut SS without being destroyed. These were a pair of generic of Crescent end nippers from the hardware store, maybe 30 or 40AUD at the time. You should undoubtedly be able to get them cheaper if you hunt around: That's not a bad idea and is certainly cheaper then fret cutters. I think my dad has one of those bench grinder things, I'll have to check. TBH, I don't think that I'll ever use stainless steel frets so that shouldn't be an issue. On 7/24/2016 at 6:49 PM, psikoT said: You always have to leave 1-2mm of fret sticking out, no matters the tool you use to cut it. Then file the excess off. If the wire cutter is not very strong and sharp, it tends to deform the fretwire in the ends while cutting. I don't have a good one, so I use the dremel instead. The problem with the dremel is that you have to cut the fret off very quickly, otherwise it tends to heat the metal, with the risk of burning the wood. Nothing serious, just something to keep in mind. My rotary cutter isn't anyone near as good as a Dremel, so I may not be able to go that route. I'll test it on some scrap wire first to double check. Today hasn't been too good a day. Firstly, I went to the physio, received the news that my leg injury is back, but it's now worse then before when I had it. When I wasn't feeling well the other week, I put on weight as I was eating a lot of junk food, and just started losing the weight and now I'm injured, so can only run 1 mile at a slow pace at the moment, but I am allowed to do a lot of cycling. I was planning on cycling from my house, down to the river then all the way to the Olympic Park in London and back (rough guess is 60-70 miles), but I'm not allowed to do that distance, especially along a mud path. My only option is to go on a diet so I don't put on loads of weight. I'm not happy as my running was going really well, getting a PB in every race I was doing, and now I'll be back to square one. Sorry, just had to have a little rant as it's got me feeling really down. On the plus side, I managed to get the motivation to transfer the G&W templates to another sheet of MDF. I left between 5-10mm gap between the line and cutting it with the jigsaw, and they have turned out really well, just need to give the edges a very quick sanding and they will be as close to perfect as I can get! I'm really glad that I got a much better mask for the routing, although now my throat and nose are getting irritated, but I think it's the dust on my clothes that's the cause. For sticking the templates together, I used a method that I picked up from watching Crimson videos, of masking tape on both templates, 1 has super glue applied, the other has super glue accelerator. It worked really well and I would recommend it. I Used a quick hand clamp to attach them to the work bench for routing, and also a G clamp that I had, but I do want to get another hand clamp when I next go to a shop that does them. I'm really glad the templates turned out really well, it's got my confidence back up with using the router and got my motivation back up to get outside and do work on the guitar, rather then sit on the sofa watching YouTube videos on how to do stuff. However, I've hit a massive issue, my guitar body is too small for the template!!!!!! Because of the margin of how much smaller then the template is, there is only 2 possible ways in which it could happen. Either the templates are completely different (the ones from Crimson are of a 60's Strat and the G&W MDF ones are of a newer, slightly bigger body shaped size), or when the plans from Crimson got photocopied they were scaled down x amount. Either way, the templates are now too big for the body. So, the option is to either sand the edges of the guitar down with the bobbin sander, but then I assume I'll need to make my own scratch plate as to make it smaller if need be. The other option is to keep the body as a spare (maybe make a small travel guitar with it or something), and buy some new wood and start the body again. The guy who planed the wood down for me reckons 2.4 meters of 50mm thick sawn ash will be cheaper then what 1 guitar body worth from eBay would be, plus a little bit for him to plane the wood for me. If I take this option, then it's going to be a slight delay in doing the body, but then I'll also have spare wood for future builds or could sell it on eBay (as that's where I got mine from originally). While writing this, I've decided that's the better option, so I'll give him a call in the morning to arrange it. If I decided to keep the excess wood, would keeping it in my dads barn have any detrimental effect, as in for when I would next want to use it if it would need drying or anything like that? Also, my original headstock designs that i really liked didn't seem to work when drawing them out on paper with the strings (although not at full size). I think I've found a design I like though. I traced out teh Fender headstock, then sketched an idea around that and I think it looks really nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve1556 Posted July 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 Now I've had all night to think about it, here is where I'm currently at with the body. I've decided not to continue using the body in its current form. I've got a couple of Teles, so I'm going to size the body up against one of them to see if it can be salvaged into one of them, if not, maybe build a travel guitar or something out of it. It's good wood so I don't want to waste it. I've spoken to the wood guy, I've given him the dimensions of the wood, so he is ordering in a 2.4 meter board, and will plane and joint it for me. I should hopefully have it by Tuesday and won't know the full cost until then, but it will be cheaper then ordering the equivalent amount of boards from eBay in body blank size. I'll then have enough wood left over for future builds so that's a bonus. I'm going to start working on the neck in the meantime, I ordered the truss rod yesterday so hopefully that will be here in the next day or two. It's a double action truss rod, but I'm having difficulty in how far to place it from the heel of the neck. Does it go between the screws, or just in front of them? The one I've ordered is listed as the Fender size at 460mm with the adjustment by the headstock. With the fret board, is it best to cut the slots then radius it, or to radius it then cut the slots? I haven't ordered the miter box from G&W yet but I do have the radius block already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMpleONe89 Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 I think it makes more sense to cut first then radius, then recut after radiusing. I do it that way because I can clamp a straight edge down on a flat, unradiused fretboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 I slot before radiusing, but not to the full target depth. After radiusing, I drop the depth stops onto the fret saw and deepen the slots so that they are consistently radiused internally. Ensure that the guy who's "ordering in" the wood knows the moisture content of the wood. If it's too wet (less likely "too dry") then you need to let it sort itself out before working into any sort of dimension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 I'd place the end between the screws rather than further into the neck itself where it gets more flexible. The rod can act on the bits its meant to, which is generally the bit where the profile starts and ends. The cross-sectionally (?) weak bit where the neck is more likely to bow forward from string pressure. Fender placed the anchor somewhere in the middle FWIW, however you'll be fine between the screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 22 hours ago, steve1556 said: That's a good idea to not waste any fret wire, may try that. When you say you cut the tangs back, is that the bit that goes into the fretboard? I saw a guy cutting the part that goes into the fretboard shorter, then after the fret is installed, he fills it with super glue and the saw dust left over from when he radiused the board. It looked really nice when done. I was thinking of creating a little holder to hold the fret wire in the right order for when I cut the fret wire so it doesn't get mixed up. That's not a bad idea and is certainly cheaper then fret cutters. I think my dad has one of those bench grinder things, I'll have to check. TBH, I don't think that I'll ever use stainless steel frets so that shouldn't be an issue. Fantastic news on the templates. I screwed up a bunch of Masonite templates way back when, and ended up repairing them with car body filler. I wish I'd have had the sense to have copied them myself.... A fretwire holder is always handy. Go for it. Careful of grinding the cutters. If they heat up too much, they'll lose their hardness or simply become too brittle if you quench them. The edges have relatively little thermal mass so will happily heat up far quicker than the rest of the metal. Slow and steady, keep checking your progress, Do it in sessions if it helps keep the metal from altering properties. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
curtisa Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 Keep a little tub of water nearby to cool the cutters as you grind. Just dunk them in for every few seconds of grinding time and you'll be grand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve1556 Posted July 28, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 19 hours ago, Prostheta said: Fantastic news on the templates. I screwed up a bunch of Masonite templates way back when, and ended up repairing them with car body filler. I wish I'd have had the sense to have copied them myself.... A fretwire holder is always handy. Go for it. Careful of grinding the cutters. If they heat up too much, they'll lose their hardness or simply become too brittle if you quench them. The edges have relatively little thermal mass so will happily heat up far quicker than the rest of the metal. Slow and steady, keep checking your progress, Do it in sessions if it helps keep the metal from altering properties. Cheers. The templates have been a massive headache for me but I'm pleased the body template is done. I've created the first neck template today, over the next few days I'm going to finish sanding it and then transfer it onto 9mm MDF. Most likely it won't be until Sunday or Tuesday though. Were those templates bought ones and you used them straight on the guitar wood? I bet you kicked yourself hard for that (I know I would have done!). Looking at the price of the cutters, it's just not economical to go that route so I'll be ordering them from G&W I think. Good tip on the thermal properties though, I'll bear that in mind if I ever do decide that route. 19 hours ago, Prostheta said: I'd place the end between the screws rather than further into the neck itself where it gets more flexible. The rod can act on the bits its meant to, which is generally the bit where the profile starts and ends. The cross-sectionally (?) weak bit where the neck is more likely to bow forward from string pressure. Fender placed the anchor somewhere in the middle FWIW, however you'll be fine between the screws. That makes sense. The truss rod arrived today, how far up the neck should I put the end? I was thinking under the nut or just after it. It's got the Allen key bit that sticks out from the truss rod so I need to take that into account when I route the hole for it. 19 hours ago, Prostheta said: I slot before radiusing, but not to the full target depth. After radiusing, I drop the depth stops onto the fret saw and deepen the slots so that they are consistently radiused internally. Ensure that the guy who's "ordering in" the wood knows the moisture content of the wood. If it's too wet (less likely "too dry") then you need to let it sort itself out before working into any sort of dimension. Silly question time, but how would I know the moisture content of the wood, and is there a reliable way to tell? The guy runs a timber merchants so I assume he will know, but I'll ask just to make sure. What sort of moisture content should I be looking for? That's a really good idea to get the same slot depth all the way though, and saves using so much super glue in the gaps, I'll try that. I'm ordering a miter box from G&W so I know my frets are all in the right places. On 7/27/2016 at 0:32 PM, SIMpleONe89 said: I think it makes more sense to cut first then radius, then recut after radiusing. I do it that way because I can clamp a straight edge down on a flat, unradiused fretboard. Good thinking. I'm planing on using a miter box so my theory was that if I radiused first, the cutting template will be attached to the back which would still be flat. But I'll cut it first just to make sure. Managed to get some work done on the neck today. Decided the best idea was to draw the center line first, then line the neck template up on it. I made it on 6mm MDF, I'm going to hand sand the edge to tidy it up a little, then transfer it onto 9MM MDF. I may get a chance to do it Sunday, if not, it will be Tuesday or Wednesday. Getting really excited about this now as I finally feel like I'm making some progress. I've also created a wish list on G&W for some bits I need which I'll get ordered in the morning. Wanted to carry on working on the neck, but I've gotta go out for a small run to help with the recovery of the leg injury and then I've got a late shift at work so the rest has to wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
psikoT Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 I thought it was going to be a strat... Hope you get better soon, the body is the most important tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 Phew, a few questions. Moisture. Well, that's an entire conversation on its own. Generally it depends on the wood's end purpose. We should aim for between around 7-12% however unless the wood was prepared, dried and stored for our specific end use, it could be way off....especially if it has been stored outside rather than indoors. You can't easily gauge wood moisture content without a meter, and certainly don't take anybody's word for it unless you know they measure it personally. Wood brought in from outdoors might be over 10% moisture, which means as soon as it comes inside it'll start losing water to the environment. When it does that, it changes size. By far the greatest movement is tangential, followed by radially and by a magnitude less, longitudinally. Tangential is shrinkage in line with the growth rings, radial is heart-to-outside. Longitudinal is in line with the grain/fibres. If the growth rings of the wood aren't particularly well straight, then shrinkage from moisture loss tangentially can cause a board to cup side to side. If your guy joints and planes wood that is more or less straight from the yard, Once it sits in your workspace, it might not stay flat. The Wikipedia article will probably help a bit with understanding how moisture content changes with the environment and why having it acclimated to your own workspace (better, "the kind of place the guitar will live"). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equilibrium_moisture_content It's 24,8°C 54% humidity in my workshop right now. I could expect that the wood in there will be "trying to get to" something like 8-9% moisture. That's about fine, or "on the top end of fine". Outside during a stormy week you'll get far higher RH, so wood will accordingly move to higher equilibrium moisture contents and be totally unsuitable for working on anything other than outdoor projects. This is useful too:http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/drying-wood-at-home/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 If the wood has been dried properly - either air or kiln - then I tend to leave it in the area I'm going to work it for a few weeks. It just helps get it used to the localised environment. "Indoors" is half the fight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScottR Posted July 28, 2016 Report Share Posted July 28, 2016 On 7/21/2016 at 3:42 AM, psikoT said: You guys are not alone, I had to put my build in stand by due to the heat, and still there's another hot month to come... You guys should try building in an open garage in Houston. On the other hand you handle cold much better than I. SR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve1556 Posted July 29, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 29, 2016 17 hours ago, ScottR said: You guys should try building in an open garage in Houston. On the other hand you handle cold much better than I. SR I like the cold weather so I really don't envy you building in the heat!, In fact, in my eyes, it would be absolutely unbearable for me! I'm glad that the summer here is actually quite cool this year 18 hours ago, Prostheta said: If the wood has been dried properly - either air or kiln - then I tend to leave it in the area I'm going to work it for a few weeks. It just helps get it used to the localised environment. "Indoors" is half the fight. Ahh that's not good to hear, I really didn't want to delay the project any longer! I'll see what the wood is like when it turns up, although I think I had the last body wood about 5 days before I jointed and glued it, and thankfully (probably by pure luck), it's was fine. I'm going to order the wood for my friends bass build soon so it can acclimatise fully before I use it. 18 hours ago, Prostheta said: Phew, a few questions. Moisture. Well, that's an entire conversation on its own. Generally it depends on the wood's end purpose. We should aim for between around 7-12% however unless the wood was prepared, dried and stored for our specific end use, it could be way off....especially if it has been stored outside rather than indoors. You can't easily gauge wood moisture content without a meter, and certainly don't take anybody's word for it unless you know they measure it personally. Wood brought in from outdoors might be over 10% moisture, which means as soon as it comes inside it'll start losing water to the environment. When it does that, it changes size. By far the greatest movement is tangential, followed by radially and by a magnitude less, longitudinally. Tangential is shrinkage in line with the growth rings, radial is heart-to-outside. Longitudinal is in line with the grain/fibres. If the growth rings of the wood aren't particularly well straight, then shrinkage from moisture loss tangentially can cause a board to cup side to side. If your guy joints and planes wood that is more or less straight from the yard, Once it sits in your workspace, it might not stay flat. The Wikipedia article will probably help a bit with understanding how moisture content changes with the environment and why having it acclimated to your own workspace (better, "the kind of place the guitar will live"). https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Equilibrium_moisture_content It's 24,8°C 54% humidity in my workshop right now. I could expect that the wood in there will be "trying to get to" something like 8-9% moisture. That's about fine, or "on the top end of fine". Outside during a stormy week you'll get far higher RH, so wood will accordingly move to higher equilibrium moisture contents and be totally unsuitable for working on anything other than outdoor projects. This is useful too:http://www.wood-database.com/wood-articles/drying-wood-at-home/ Thanks for the very informative reply here. I know wood can change due to moisture content, but my knowledge stops on how it's affected, in terms of it's shape, bending, growing, etc. I'll check out the links and give them a good read in the next few days. So, if I'm right, it's both temperature and humidity that have an effect on it? From what you said, I'm also assuming that it's better to keep the wood in the house rather then in the garage for the moisture content and working/joining it. I'll ask the wood guy if he can measure the moisture content, although he should have received the wood on Wednesday so it will be sitting in his workshop until Tuesday when he planes and joints it for me, so hopefully if the wood needs to settle most of it will be done in that time. I'm hoping the bits from G&W turn up by Tuesday or Wednesday (the last packaged arrived after 3 days!) so I can finish the neck next week as I have a good amount of time off work, then I'll get the body done the following week to try and allow the wood to settle slightly more. 19 hours ago, psikoT said: I thought it was going to be a strat... Hope you get better soon, the body is the most important tool. It is going to be a Strat, but I didn't want to use the Fender style headstock as it's not a Fender. Also, I'm finding it's very therapeutic when things are going right, and I plan on building several more, so thought my own headstock design would be a nice touch. Hopefully it's a quick recovery, it's the same thing I had at the end of last year but at a much worse stage. Part of the treatment is rubbing a golf ball on the front of the shin to loosen the muscle off it (it hurts like hell!). I've been taking a golf ball into work with me and the difference after 1 day of doing it made a big difference to my run, so hoping it won't be too long. Had to pull out of a 10 mile race and a half marathon though which is annoying as the half marathon wasn't cheap to enter. Bit of an update, I got delayed at work last night and didn't have enough of a rest period for today so I now don't start until 6pm, so I've got all day to work on the guitar. Don't think I'll be getting much done though as it's raining loads and I don't have a dust extraction system in the garage. I'm going to try sanding down the new neck template, trace around it and try and get the truss rod lined up in the right position. If the weather dries up (unlikely), then I'll try and use the router as well. To be able to do more work in the garage, or if/when I get more machine tools and have to move everything to my dads barn, I'm looking at getting a dust extraction system, this one seems to be quite good, cheap, and would fit my needs link I've got an issue with my dads router though, the up/down movement is extremely hard to move, I'm assuming something is clogging up the poles that allow it to move up and down. I'm tempted to go and buy my own one, but I've just places an order of parts with G&W which came to more then I was hoping for, so the new router may have to wait. In hindsight, the nut files were an additional £60 on my order, so I'm maybe wondering if I should have just bought a pre-cut nut instead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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