Narrow bridges - availabity/playability?

[Peri]

Just planning my first build, which I'm hoping to be able to do on the cheap (as I'm currently broke and unemployed) using up some spare bits of wood from an old project. Particularly, I have some maple pieces that'll make  a neck and fretboard, except they're a touch on the narrow side at the bridge end. Will I be able to find any realistically priced hardware for the bridge that has 8.5mm or thereabouts string spacing? If so, how badly would playability be affected versus the more common 10.5mm types  I see on ebay etc? The spacing of the strings would be wider than the spacing at the nut on my old strat copy, and I don't have any trouble fretting individual strings there, but I'm not sure how necessary it is for the spacing to increase towards the bridge - I presume there's a reason for it, but don't know what it is.

(In case it's relevant, I'd most likely be looking for a fixed bridge, as I'm optimizing the design for sustain)

[Bizman62]

If the neck is too narrow, is it possible for you to get a thin piece of wood as a pinstripe type of addition? The fretboard can also be made out of more than just one single piece.

I know there's narrower bridges but the last time I checked the difference wasn't big, some 0.3 mm if memory serves me right.

[Andyjr1515]

Hi and welcome

Hmmm - I don't know of any bridges that go that narrow other than the jazz type floating bridges with an acoustic-type saddle.

Even the Schaller adjustable roller bridges only go down to 9.7mm (48.4 total):

https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/All_Hardware_and_Parts_by_Instrument/Electric_Guitar_Parts/Electric_Guitar_Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Tune-o-matic_Bridges/Schaller_Roller_Bridge.html

And I'm pretty sure the bodies of the individual string/bridge cylinders you see from time to time are wider than that even when fitted right next to each other.

The other problem you will get is that you would have to look at rail-type pickups because conventional pickups have pole pieces compatible with the more usual spacings.  This severely restricts your choice.

As @Bizman62 says, adding a laminate to widen the neck and/or fretboard would be probably the best thing.  That has a side benefit (certainly as far as the neck goes) of potentially making the neck more resistant to twist and warp.  

[Peri]

Thanks. Hadn't considered laminating... that does sound like a better idea.

[ADFinlayson]

Laminating is definitely your best option here. If you are limited on wood, you could get away with laminating a strip on either side at the heal end just to give you that extra width you need at the widest part of the taper. However, if you do go down that route, you will find it easier to route your truss rod channel before glueing on the laminates so you have a straight light to route along.