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Cracked Applause refurb


dougrun

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so, a little history. I got this guitar when i was about 12. I think it's a 79 or 80. My stepdad got it for me to play in his bluegrass band. I did for a few years then it just went with me off to college(s). One day i come home from studying in the library until 8pm (masters work) and water is flowing out my front door. Bathroom sink line broke. This guitar was sitting on the carpet at that time. It soaked up a lot and the cracks show it. I didn't really start playing it a lot again until 2 years ago and thought i'd try and glue the cracks but that didn't hold. I was doing an open mic night in a friends backyard and tripped and fell on it, poking a tear in the back shell. I used fibergalss epoxy on that which turned out ok. While repairing it, i bought a balladeer to play in the mean time. So now that i had a nicer guitar, I thought i'd attempt a refinish on it, Now having a little experience with lacquer, I decided on a blue metallic so I could nto find a Poly like that, i went the lacquer route. Getting the poly finish off was a pain though, Had to dremel near the edges. The rosette (i hate to even call a colored plastic circle connected to the pick guard a real rosette) came off and so I started sanding away. The photos show the cheap wood under it, and how badly i had to sand down to get the cracks out. I won't be surprised if it doesn't hold string tension when i'm finished but at this point, its all for fun anyway. With the cheap wood used, I could have just gotten hardware store metallic paint then did poly over that I guess. So far i love the look but need more clear coats to make the rosette (laid on top, not inlayed) level enough with the clear.

 

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7 hours ago, dougrun said:

I won't be surprised if it doesn't hold string tension when i'm finished

The spots where you've sanded through the top layer showing the cross laminated veneer are the weakest ones. They're not large, though. Quite some time ago I posted a couple of pictures of a classical guitar with a loose bridge. The top was made of some sort of plywood similarly to yours and the three layers were so damaged that there was no strength lengthwise at all. Yours looks much stronger.

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I'm undecided on whether to clear coat it up to the edge or leave it just under. I have a few layers still before the rosette is level with the middle. I have an artist friend who can hand paint the edge binding with acrylic. I photoshopped it with blue to see if i'd like the edge colored but I think it looks better not.

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It's not mandatory. Most builders just aren't happy with "most of", they want it all seem like glass.

There was a guy in our class who wanted a playable LP lookalike that would look good on stage. So instead of a spray gun he used cheap rattle cans and instead of fancy binding he took a little brush and some gold paint to accentuate the outlines of the body. As the owner of a six man car repair shop he might even have had access to professional spray guns, also the cost of "real" materials would have been no issue. It was just his minimalistic philosophy.

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the # of underlying cracks are multiplying. now about 12. I think i'll have no choice but to leave them and just finish it up. Already sanded a lot of the top clear down and they still show at a certain angle so must be at the metallic or white layers. I guess it'll just add character. 😶

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On 1/11/2021 at 12:16 AM, dougrun said:

the # of underlying cracks are multiplying. now about 12. I think i'll have no choice but to leave them and just finish it up. Already sanded a lot of the top clear down and they still show at a certain angle so must be at the metallic or white layers. I guess it'll just add character. 😶

Looking good.  Are you talking just surface cracks in the lacquer?  If so, I wouldn't worry about it - some folks go to extraordinary lengths just to create them...

 

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