asgeirogm Posted January 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2023 @nakedzen Yep I found out about that technique so I did that the second time around 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted January 22, 2023 Report Share Posted January 22, 2023 10 hours ago, asgeirogm said: now the old hole with he broken screw is actually visible. I'll probably make due with filling it with sawdust mixed with wood glue. As it's only half visible, dust and glue may well work. But if it doesn't please your eye, you can make a decorative plug and maybe add another to the other end to make it look like planned. A small nipple at the broad end might actually look best but testing before drilling is highly recommendable! For mockup pieces of paper of the right colour might suffice. 11 hours ago, asgeirogm said: whether I will glue the fretboard on the neck before or after gluing the neck in the pocket It might be a bit easier to glue the fretboard on the neck without the body being in your way. Even a neck-thru is clumsy, save a full bodied guitar. @nakedzen gave a valuable tip. Candle wax, bar soap, solid car wax all work. If the lubricant is very fluid be careful not to spill it on bare wood as it may prevent the finish and especially dye from sticking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asgeirogm Posted January 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2023 26 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: But if it doesn't please your eye, you can make a decorative plug and maybe add another to the other end to make it look like planned. Good idea, it'll be my backup 28 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: It might be a bit easier to glue the fretboard on the neck without the body being in your way As far as I can recall, that made the most sense for me and what I had planned on doing. I guess I'll put the body to the side for now and continue on the CNC. I actually have a slight problem with the neck as far as I can recall, I just couldn't get it completely flat with my steel bar sanding thing, there's an ever so slight valley/dip/hill in one place I think that I just couldn't get rid of last time around. I'm not sure if my steel bar thing is not flat enough or if I was unintentionally putting uneven force when sanding, but I also recall trying turning the neck 180 degrees and also barely holding it and letting basically gravity do it's thing when sanding or holding the neck in a different location when sanding, but nothing worked. I'll have to take a look at that again... Maybe I should take some pictures of the problem and see if anyone has ideas or thoughts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bizman62 Posted January 22, 2023 Report Share Posted January 22, 2023 2 minutes ago, asgeirogm said: I'm not sure if my steel bar thing is not flat enough or if I was unintentionally putting uneven force when sanding, but I also recall trying turning the neck 180 degrees and also barely holding it and letting basically gravity do it's thing when sanding At first I was going to mention the force used but then I read further. A fellow builder was just leveling his neck. He simply attached a couple of sandpaper sheets on the true table of the big planer. An important part when leveling by sanding is to not to move back and forth. Strokes only just like with a hand plane! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 22, 2023 Report Share Posted January 22, 2023 29 minutes ago, Bizman62 said: At first I was going to mention the force used but then I read further. A fellow builder was just leveling his neck. He simply attached a couple of sandpaper sheets on the true table of the big planer. An important part when leveling by sanding is to not to move back and forth. Strokes only just like with a hand plane! Perhaps a better explanation here is that all parts of the surface should receive equal "time" on the sandpaper with equal pressure. Pushing a workpiece down in the centre or only at the very ends changes the rate at which material is removed at different places. To a degree this becomes a mental ability along with muscle memory. I have a large flat plywood board onto which I glued a wide sheet from a thickness sander. It's similar to sanding a fretboard with a radiusing beam. If you run the beam right off the ends, you end up with a curve rolling off the ends. If you dwell entirely on the board, the centre is always getting abraded. With my (500mm?) beams I apply light-medium pressure in the middle of the beam (so I'm not deforming the workpiece or the beam) and only move my hand between the middle third, or maybe middle two quarters. The main thing is that you have a flat reference surface to check progress continuously and adjust accordingly. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asgeirogm Posted January 22, 2023 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2023 Great tips guys, I think I was in fact doing a back-and-forth instead of one-way, and probably some other bad stuff that did not comply with what you just described Prostheta. I will try again, keeping these tips in mind, thanks a lot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 22, 2023 Report Share Posted January 22, 2023 Single direction can help some people, but it really depends on how you internalise the technique. Single direction may help with waste removal. I brush and vacuum my sandpaper as I work before it builds. Try, test and evaluate. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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