stageleft Posted April 13, 2004 Report Share Posted April 13, 2004 OK gang, I have done a lot of modeling and woodworking, but just starting on building guitars from scratch....why nitrocelulose finish? Is there a reason, Krylon or other paint is generally not used? In all my research I haven't been able to find a good answer, so I turn it over to you. I have two guitars in progress and I am getting close to the finishing stage on both. Just don't want to do something I'll regret later. Thanks, George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted April 13, 2004 Report Share Posted April 13, 2004 I don't want to start a Nitro vs Poly war, but all I'll say is that I'll never use Nitro again. Why Nitro? Good question.. probably because they sell it and try to make everyone who starts out think it's the best paint to use for guitars... which in my opinion isn't... lol I knew you'd start a war..!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted April 13, 2004 Report Share Posted April 13, 2004 Nitro pro's: Excellent gloss and unrivalled clarity and warmth. Accoustically transparent. Can be repaired invisibly even after fully cured. Easy to apply with basic equipment. Nitro con's: Toxic and highly flammable. Relatively fragile. Slow to build up thickness and very slow to cure. Can be damaged by contact with some plastics. The biggest pro is probably the repairability, where nitro beats every other finish hands down. This is balenced against it's relative fragilty, so it's more likely to pickup the odd ding or scratch if you're a little cavalier with your axes. Most experienced builders also agree that it is the best looking finish out there, though if can be a pretty subtle differnece, nitro is just a little 'warmer' than most alternatives. I don't know much about Krylon, but I would advise against using most hardware store finishes, unless you can find experienced builders who have tried and tested them. Compatability is a big issue when finishing instruments, so test everything on scrap first. I used Rustins Plastic Coating on my last instrument, and I'm very pleased with how it worked out. IT's a 2 part cold cure lacquer, it sprays very easily, levels nicely, buffs to a great gloss, and is very tough, and significantly, easily available in the UK. It is the finish Brian May used on his Red Special, so it has a long history of use on musical instuments, but I have no idea how available it is in the US. I've also used target PSL waterbased lacquer, but I found this too soft, plus I had to import it from the US so the price was prohibitive after shipping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rogviler Posted April 13, 2004 Report Share Posted April 13, 2004 The only thing about using Krylon or other spray paint as a base is that you have to be careful with the type of clear you use. A two-part automotive clear will work great, but lacquer will almost always dissolve the paint and leave the finish cracked. With a waterbased lacquer you should be fine of course. In my experience at least. Otherwise, rattle away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stageleft Posted April 14, 2004 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2004 Thanks guys, glad I didn't start a war. I have one kit I am ready to finish, one blank I am ready to rout, and one piece of scrap (left over from the blank) that will be my test finish piece. I will be sure to post progress and observations on the finishes I do try. George Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
decalshopmike Posted April 14, 2004 Report Share Posted April 14, 2004 Nitro was traditionally used as it was readily available in the past - most guitars you buy now use an Acrylic based finish, which is what I prefer for refinishing unless the customer particularly wants nitro. Gibson still use nitro, and it causes all sorts of problems, I've seen guitars only a few months old where the finish has seperated from the wood and peeled away in big chunks ! It also discolours more easily than acrylic. I think the tone thing is just voodoo ! I've had my own guitars finished in both, and there is no discernable difference in the sound - I think a lot of people assume that cos a 50 year old accoustic that is finished in nitro sounds good, then nitro must be a better 'sounding' finish - the guitar sounds good cos its 50 years old ! Another plus with acrylic is that it hardens quicker, so if you're doing repairs etc... you dont have to wait as long before you can polish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KeithHowell Posted April 15, 2004 Report Share Posted April 15, 2004 Nitro con's: Toxic and highly flammable. I recently visited an explosives manufacturing plant which makes propellant for G5 cannons that shoot shells 25 miles! And guess what the main ingredient is? Nitro Cellulose! Looking at all the safety systems they are using to handle it I think I'll stay away from it for home use. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted April 15, 2004 Report Share Posted April 15, 2004 I'm pretty much a numpty about this stuff so far... so although I could just as easily phone a paint shop tomorrow and get them going "you want to do what?" I'll just ask here-- That recent Vintage Fender article posted around here made me really think that acrylic will be the way to go when I get around to it... is that stuff readily available for consumers at auto shops, or is it a specialty item? All I need is black and clear... but when I went to Parts Source recently, the sales associate was like "huh? You want WHAT kind of paint?" But at that time I was asking after nitrocellulose. Greg. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
decalshopmike Posted April 15, 2004 Report Share Posted April 15, 2004 As far as the UK goes, pretty much all auto paint is acrylic, the lacquer is usually marked as 'acrylic plus' which is the same thing ( the plus bit generally means you can use if over nitro finished without a reaction ). If you get a colour and lacquer that are made by the same manufacturer from the same shop you should be pretty safe. One good thing about refinishing guitars is that you dont really need any specialist sort of paint ( despite what some shops say ) - if its good enough to paint a car that sits outside in the rain, snow and sun, it'll be fine for a guitar ! mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stratman Posted April 16, 2004 Report Share Posted April 16, 2004 If you get a colour and lacquer that are made by the same manufacturer from the same shop you should be pretty safe. One good thing about refinishing guitars is that you dont really need any specialist sort of paint ( despite what some shops say ) - if its good enough to paint a car that sits outside in the rain, snow and sun, it'll be fine for a guitar ! mike Yup,I just painted my Kramer bodied "mutt" with Dupli-color.I used their base over a laquer primer(Dupli-color is laquer based) Then I laid on a can of their (D-C)clear.After the block sanding down to 2000 grit,it took about 30 minutes of hand buffing and I can read in the reflection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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