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if those radius measurements are correct and assuming the guitar is a 25.5" scale, then you would need a compound radius fretboard starting at 10" and then going to 11.67" at the 22nd fret, or 11.69" at the 24th fret

you could probably get away with a constant 10" board, or try your hand at a 10" -> 12" compound radius board

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I think you can modify the bridge radius by grinding the saddle bottoms, or adding metal shims under the saddles, at least I did that a couple of times. WD floyd trem allows individual height adjustment of each saddle, but then again, once you would go through the trouble adding the right shims, you might not have to mess with it again.

It's not being able to fine-tune the individual string heights at the nut that bugs me real bad about floyds.

Much more fune to just level the board in the path of the strings, and then fine tune the bridge and nut radius to fit that. It's quite a pain to fine-tune the fret-board radius to fit the fixed radius of a nut and bridge, especially if Derek's numbers are right : 11.67 at 22nd fret while keeping the nut area at 10" (although is it really a perfect 10" ?--- Many locking nuts I've seen actually seem to have a slight warp when they were made)

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if those radius measurements are correct and assuming the guitar is a 25.5" scale, then you would need a compound radius fretboard starting at 10" and then going to 11.67" at the 22nd fret, or 11.69" at the 24th fret

you could probably get away with a constant 10" board, or try your hand at a 10" -> 12" compound radius board

But this 11.67" is what the fret-top radius should be, right ? Might as well just say " about 12" then"

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7 string floyds have a radius of 12" ? Can they make things any more confusing? OFR's are 10", Schaller Floyds are 14", and now 7 string floyds are 12"?

If that is correct, I'd go with either 10" or 12" fretboard - which ever is most comfortable for you. I wouldn't bother shimming in this case since the difference is so small but it certainly wouldn't hurt anything if you did. Do you have radius guages?

You could also go with a compound radius board like the stewmac boards (10" to 16") and shim the bridge. Lots of options - just need to decide what you are most comfortable playing. You can also buy a flatter radius locking nut (at least you can with the 6 string locking nuts - not sure about 7 strings).

I have a guitar with a 10" fretboard that I play a lot. It took some getting used to at first since I played an Ibanez most of my life. I also have a guitar with a 10" to 16" compound radius that I really like. I think I like the compound the best actually.

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ya, i wasn't going to say anything, but the originals 7 floyds are 15" radius nut and bridge... not sure what schaller or others are doing though

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