GREGMW Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 Hi When cutting a truss rod channel in a neck,do you use some sort of jig to get it deeper in the centre or just keep adjusting the router as you go. TIA. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truerussian558 Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 well if this is your first time i would recomend going with a trussrod that doesnt require a curved rout, or a rounded base. second, to answer your question, yes you do need a special jig, unless you are a robot and can without a depth stop frehand route the curve yourself (highly unlikely) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
asm Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 arrggg.. please dont type in all caps, much less make a topic in all caps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frankie Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 stew mac sells a router bit for their trussrods, if yours is a stew mac. bad thing is its like $40..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skibum5545 Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 there was some talk about using a 1/4" rout shimmed at both ends instead of buying the StewMac blade. True/false? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 i use a 1/4" bit with no shimming, have done it three times now and no problems yet. as far as traditional rods are concerned, i was thinking, could`nt you just do a graduated route and then smooth it using a narrow chisel? just a thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truerussian558 Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 its just a lot more work and the benefits are non exsistent, as tyhe 2 dif types of rods function the same and are the same price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 If you think you 'need' the special router bit for Stewmac's truss rod, then I also have a special Robertson-head screwdriver that you really need for... er... special 'guitar-grade' screws. Only $60 shipped. Let me know if you're interested. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tsl602000 Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 its just a lot more work and the benefits are non exsistent, as tyhe 2 dif types of rods function the same that's not true. They do not function the same and many builders claim there's a difference in sound between the conventional (read: fender) and "hotrod" trussrods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Primal Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 I would go with an LMI double expanding truss rod. Cheaper and you can use a standard 3/8" bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 If you think you 'need' the special router bit for Stewmac's truss rod, then I also have a special Robertson-head screwdriver that you really need for... er... special 'guitar-grade' screws. Only $60 shipped. Let me know if you're interested. Greg you can do it in 2 passes with a smaller bit size of course...the bit stewmac carries for it is easier...but i am not one of those who thinks it is "okay" to rout a BIG channel and shim it at both ends if you do that then imo you should just buy a really cheap mass produced guitar,because that is the sort of thing i see on them all the time,and they can build it alot cheaper than you can the only reason i started to build my own guitars is because of the quality difference if you are just going to slap it together with no regard for tolerances then you will never come out cheaper than what you can buy you can,however,build a top of the line guitar with tight tolerances and just the specs you want ALOT cheaper than you can buy one. and if you are building to sell with oversized truss rod channels and such,then why should anyone buy from you,as opposed to the mass produced crap you can get for $300 at any guitar center Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 30, 2004 Report Share Posted May 30, 2004 (edited) Sure, But I have a smaller bit and will do it in multiple passes. Rant noted, though. As for why make instead of buy? I guess if quality is your BIGGEST concern, that's certainly one perspective. Another is that I probably won't be making guitars that surpass mass-produced ones for a while... but I still enjoy the process. Why should you buy a guitar from me (I know it wasn't me--Greg--me, but for others like me)? You shouldn't. I'm doing it for myself and possibly as gifts for friends. I'll gladly refer potential customers to the commercial luthiers who frequent this site. Edited May 30, 2004 by GregP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdog Posted May 31, 2004 Report Share Posted May 31, 2004 Concerning the routing of the channel for the hot rod truss.....I've read all the posts on multiple passes with undersized bits and all the rants on the over-priced inferior-quality Stew-Mac router bits.......Here is the deal.....The Hot Rod Truss requires a 7/32in channel, right?......I just measure the brass blocks on a 24in rod and that's the correct measurement.......@5.54mm......Why not just get the correct router bit and save a lot of extra work! Whiteside makes a solid carbide 7/32in straight bit for @$17.......catalogue #sc13.....These bits are of the highest quality.......If you can't find a dealer or find them on the internet...send me the $$$$ and I'll get it for you!....I'm usually at my supplier on Saturday mornings. http://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/catalog/CatalogHome.asp Frued also makes bits in increments of 1/64in......Home Depot may even have a 7/32in straight bit in their frued display case. Remember....WORK SMARTER.....NOT HARDER!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 31, 2004 Report Share Posted May 31, 2004 I agree with that, too. In my neck of the woods, there were no proper sized bits to be had, so I'm hoping to make do with the next best. If I could have found a 7/32" Freud bit, trust me I would have bought it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdog Posted May 31, 2004 Report Share Posted May 31, 2004 7/32in straight router bits, anyone? Try a Google search! http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detai...&s=hi&n=3459231 http://www.american-carbide.com/Woodworkin...lection=0&Cat=4 http://www.right-tool.com/romcardoubfl.html http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc...e/closout1.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted May 31, 2004 Report Share Posted May 31, 2004 what is the difference between downcut,upcut,and compression bits? good links by the way,i never ran a search on them because i just bought the stewmac one...it is a nice bit as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tdog Posted May 31, 2004 Report Share Posted May 31, 2004 The carbide on Stew-Mac bits is not as high a grade and dulls easier......You will notice the difference if you would use a Whiteside or other "name" bit....I quit using my Stew-Mac bits after the first project I used them on....It was the bit with bearing set for cutting binding ledges....BTW.....The bearing wasn't too good either! Upcut and downcut refer to the direction in which the bit ejects the cut material from the route....example....If you would be routing a channel for a truss rod, an upcut bit would be a better choice because it would pull the sawdust out of the route,cleaning the channel, thus, giving you an easier path and greater visibility. As for compression bits......WHO KNOWS!!!!...There are so many specialty bits and toolings for commercial and industrial applications, you'd have to be a sales rep for the tooling companies to know these special bits exist! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 31, 2004 Report Share Posted May 31, 2004 I had already ordered enough stuff from the States, but those are some good links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted June 1, 2004 Report Share Posted June 1, 2004 Downcut bits are really great for routing a binding channel; it cuts down on the body from above, lot less tear-out than with a straight-cut bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted June 1, 2004 Report Share Posted June 1, 2004 As for the changing depth of the truss rod channel (original post), just sand yourself a wedge of the right thickness and taper, cut a slot in it for the bit, and then stick it to the top of the neck blank with double-stick tape. Works great if you're using a hand-held router. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GREGMW Posted June 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2004 Thanks guys for all your input. The truss rod I am going to use for my first neck is the Stewmac hot rod and the channel is straight ,but I was interested in how you would rout out the deeper part in the centre with other truss rods. Great info in this forum.I have learnt heaps just from reading the discussions .Its amazing how many people build or are interested in guitars . Thanks again Cheers Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luthiertobe Posted June 26, 2004 Report Share Posted June 26, 2004 I'm going to try to build a guitar with a single action truss rod routed from the back and ajustable from the heel of the neck. What should the curve of the channel be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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