runfromsticks Posted August 1, 2004 Report Share Posted August 1, 2004 will i be able to use regular pickups (soldering and all) instead of the clip on pickups they supply? will i be able to use real pots and switches as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted August 1, 2004 Report Share Posted August 1, 2004 yes just get the pickups u want and use all the hardware with the pickups. get rid off all of the swittches if that doesnt come in with the pickups. There wiring sucks and so do there pots and swtches. SOLDERING RULES! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runfromsticks Posted August 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2004 SOLDERING RULES! ive never actually soldered before in my life is it easy to learn how? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey69962000 Posted August 1, 2004 Report Share Posted August 1, 2004 just replace the intire electronics. If scared to solder than to use the same electronics you would need to to solder twice as much to get the wires off. Plus the switchs and pots suck. I have the kit so i should know. If you just want to learn it nothing to it. Its taking solder (wire for soldering) and place it on the 2 things you want to solder and then take the heated soldering iorn and place it on the solder over the 2 objects you are soldering, and bam the solder heats and melts the objects together. That simple but if you want a better explanation talk to others. thats how i do my soldering Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
runfromsticks Posted August 1, 2004 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2004 oh ok i figured that was all just wanted to make sure. and is painting/finished a guitar hard? ive read many articles and it kind of seems complicated...lots of spray, sand, spray sand, and etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Librero Posted August 1, 2004 Report Share Posted August 1, 2004 well, it takes patience. that's for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlGeeEater Posted August 1, 2004 Report Share Posted August 1, 2004 the way i solder, may not be the easiest but it works for me. just take the solder, melt it with a soldering iron onto the two wires and presto!lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted August 1, 2004 Report Share Posted August 1, 2004 Keep in mind that with most of these kits, they already come sealed (if not sanded), which has a bit of give and take-- it saves you steps if you're doing a normal paint job, but if you wanted to try staining, it'll make things trickier. Since the kits probably use a very thin veneer, you won't be sucessfully sanding back the way lots of the PG tutorials explain. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teknohippy Posted August 2, 2004 Report Share Posted August 2, 2004 Soldering effectively and professionally requires patience, it's not a quick job. For a start you should keep good care of your iron. Always clean it with a wet sponge between each joint you solder. If you soldering iron is new, then you should make sure you tin it before using it. To tin it basically you are giving it a thin coating of solder to aid in heat transfer. On to soldering. First you must prepare the surfaces you are going to solder. If they are already coated in any solder then you must remove this old solder first, completely. The simplest way to remove solder is with some de-soldering braid. De-soldering braid is a copper braid that will draw solder up into itself. Simply heat the braid with the iron and apply the braid to the old solder. Keep in mind you should be heating the braid not the solder! Now that all the solder is removed or if there was none to start with, you can clean the surfaces with isopropyl alcohol. Everything is now clean and ready to be tinned. You need to tin the two surfaces you are going to join (unless one is a PCB). Simply apply the iron to the end of the wire or contact point and when it is hot enough use the heat of the wire to apply a thin coating of solder. Don't try to apply solder to the iron and 'paint' it on. Now both parts are tinned you can join them together, this is where you need three hands, you need to hold the iron, the solder and hold the two surfaces together! I use helping hand thing that has crocodile clips on bendy arms and a heavy iron base. With the two surfaces held together apply the iron to them. Feed the solder into the join, not onto the iron directly, if the surfaces are hot enough the solder will begin to melt, a good way to make sure everything is hot enough for a nice joint. Feed in enough to fill the gap and make a nice dome shape. Too much solder is asking for a cold joint that will fail later. A good joint will me shiney and silver whereas a bad one will be dull and gray. Clean off the joint with a bit of the iso-propyl first as the resin in some solders can hide the true quality of the joint. Well that's just a little bit about soldering, I've done a fair bit before having been a sound engineer for many years Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www Posted August 2, 2004 Report Share Posted August 2, 2004 Great tutorial. Maybe Brian could pin it for the next question about soldering. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey69962000 Posted August 2, 2004 Report Share Posted August 2, 2004 Keep in mind that with most of these kits, they already come sealed (if not sanded), which has a bit of give and take um the Saga's dont. they want you to be creative and buy a sealer and paint if you want. So no worries about the Saga kit being pre sealed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lovekraft Posted August 2, 2004 Report Share Posted August 2, 2004 Keep in mind that with most of these kits, they already come sealed (if not sanded), which has a bit of give and take um the Saga's dont. they want you to be creative and buy a sealer and paint if you want. So no worries about the Saga kit being pre sealed That's interesting - this is from Brian's LC-10 page: The Basswood Body is completely coated with sanding sealer and smooth enough to paint with only minor finish sanding The Harmony Central reviews and other vendors seem to confirm this. Where did you get your info? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey69962000 Posted August 3, 2004 Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 READ THE MANNUEL IN THE KIT. It is sanded just the frett board is sealed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Librero Posted August 3, 2004 Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 um the Saga's dont. they want you to be creative and buy a sealer and paint if you want. So no worries about the Saga kit being pre sealed yes, they do. i have an HT-10 kit and my plans for it got ruined when the body came sealed. several other people in this very forum with saga kits had the same problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkey69962000 Posted August 3, 2004 Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 mine didnt my LC-10 came unsealed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a bicycle made of anarchy Posted August 3, 2004 Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 all about the love Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teknohippy Posted August 3, 2004 Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 oops : mod please delete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teknohippy Posted August 3, 2004 Report Share Posted August 3, 2004 Great tutorial. Maybe Brian could pin it for the next question about soldering. He'd have to know it was here It's a bit tucked away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctams Posted December 13, 2004 Report Share Posted December 13, 2004 and my LC-10 came sealed. Trust me, I know, as I had to deal with it and finally go opaque. CTT. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ctams Posted December 13, 2004 Report Share Posted December 13, 2004 By the way, I have a hum that won't go away on my stock LC-10. Everything is grounded properly. When I touch the strings, tailpiece, jack, it silences. It's worse as the electrical interference in the room goes up, but always mutes when strings etc. are touched. What could this be? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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