Jump to content
Entry in the May 2024 Guitar of the Month contest is now open ×

jammy

Veteran Member
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    743

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by jammy

  1. jammy
    Well, it's playing! Still needs a little more fine work, and of course spraying. That will come next week (I'll be spraying my first acoustic then too. For now, here's some photos... http://www.solar.myby.co.uk/misc/andy/acoustic2/7.jpg http://www.solar.myby.co.uk/misc/andy/acoustic2/8.jpg http://www.solar.myby.co.uk/misc/andy/acoustic2/9.jpg http://www.solar.myby.co.uk/misc/andy/acoustic2/10.jpg http://www.solar.myby.co.uk/misc/andy/acoustic2/11.jpg
  2. jammy
    It'll have strings on and be playing by tomorrow night. Mark my words, and expect photos when it's done!
  3. jammy
    I'm using a 29" scale, and to keep things looking right, a 15 fret neck joint. This leaves the bridge about 1.5cm further back on the body than normal on a 000, to compensate for this I shifted the X a little, but added a large, slightly thicker than normal bridge plate to transfer the string tension stress to the X's a little better. Other than that it's normal 000 like my last (with the wing/block arrangment at the neck end like before) Side thickness was about normal (2.7mm) but I thinned them a little at the wastes to avoid cracking in the flame.
  4. jammy
    Cheers for the kind words all. As predicted the neck joint's on it's way. I'm hoping to have the neck on, and the fretboard radiused and slotted tomorrow.
  5. jammy
    None inside the box no, unfortunatly. Its as clean as I could make it - cheers
  6. jammy
    Well, this guitar's quite far along now, but I thought I'd start the thread at the begining... Here's the pile of wood I started off with Click And my spec list... Oregon myrtle back and sides Sitka Spruce top Rosewood neck Ebony Board Ebony Bridge Spruce bracing Mahogany blocks Mahogany linings Rosewood binding on the body Maple bound fretboard 29" scale tuned B to B or A to A 000 body shape, but 10mm deeper at all points Pinned tennon neck joint Bone nut and saddle And where I'm up to today - I've just leveled the bindings up to the top and back, and I'll get them flush with the sides tomorrow, and start the neck joint. picture of front
  7. jammy
    matebo - a name I'd looked into. They look very good indeed, but I'm a bit warey of the lack of a cast iron table (a nice luxary)
  8. jammy
    I'm soon to be furnishing my new workshop (it's in the process of being built at the moment) and I've decided on most of my tools, apart from my bandsaw. I'd originally settled on an axminster saw which retails at about £455, but I was warned off this unit by Nathan Sheppard. So I'm on the hunt again - I need a bandsaw, which is as good as possible, available in the UK with a price limit of £500. What do you guys suggest?
  9. jammy
    If you're on about normans nut files I've allready got some... And they're excellent! A little dry soap as a lubricant and they cut bone smoothly and easily. Far better than normal files.
  10. jammy
    Money I guess. Schaller's are the best licenced units IMO - I think they're easily as good as OFRs
  11. jammy
    Looks like an excellent piece of kit.
  12. jammy
    *sigh* If he's good at what he does, which he certainly seems to be, why not use the finest kit available? Also - why do you have to be an amazing player to build an awesome guitar? I'm not that good at all, but I love making guitars and hearing them played by people better than me. He doesn't have to justify his choices to you - he's just doing what he wants.
  13. jammy
    I could only *just* intonate a F# on a 26" scale. When I get round to making my 8 it'll be fanned i think, makes soooo much more sense Still, Awesome work man - I love it!
  14. jammy
    Downloaded, took about 4mins 30 secs
  15. jammy
    I'd have a go at the neck on that other one - could be a nice way to start. Archtops are difficult, difficult instruments to make. Especially difficult to make them sound nice. I plan to try one for my 4th acoustic instrument, and that one's got a year in my timetable, and I've got proffesional assistance...
  16. jammy
    How long is the CF rod?
  17. jammy
    A good plan Stech. without replacing the block you're not going to get a nice super-tight dovetail in that again. Dowels would be a great idea.
  18. jammy
    That's awesome - nice to see it's got a 25.5" scale too!
  19. jammy
    Shouldn't be an issue, just make sure you get some well seasoned quartered wood for the neck and you'll be fine.
  20. jammy
    Um.... not according to *anything* I've seen. You start out with a design, you bend the sides and shape the top to fit that design, and then you glue them togther, so they hold that shape. He's right you know - it's virtually impossible to get your rib structure perfect, so the top and back are adjusted slightly from plans if required to provide the correct overhangs. It's only minimal, but that's the way it's done.
  21. jammy
    Right, there's a better picture - as you can see it's not been sprayed yet. I lost one of the ebony bridge pins, and that's all I had spare, by the way http://www.j4mie.org/misc/dmgdemo.mp3 Thats a little badly recorded soundclip, but it gives the basic idea
  22. jammy
    Well, it's making noises, and really nice ones too! More pics to come...
  23. jammy
    God that must take AGES. I didn't know anyone did it...
  24. jammy
    The yellow mark is just where the glue seaped out when I was gluing up the blocks. It'll be carved out when the neck gets done - no problem cheers
  25. jammy
×
×
  • Create New...