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killemall8

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Everything posted by killemall8

  1. I'll say! That's killer. What did you do, go back and pore fill with that reddish brown color? And I'm going to say it again, that fretboard is perfect with this body. SR Yessir, i mixed some filler with red dye and rubbed it in. I didnt think it could come out that great, but it really worked well. I really want to do this with neon green, if i can find a way to do that.
  2. Decided to take this a different way at the last second. I think it was a good idea.
  3. That is the main reason i stopped using mine. I have used it for almost 7 years for fretting. But those hard woods like ebony seem to really put a lot of strain on it.
  4. You can make them however deep you want. Dont try to just stick to factory standards. I would just make them with a bevel bit, evenly all the way around, instead of tapered.
  5. That black finished ash is HOT! I love the fretboard on that body. It's been a couple of years since I have seen what your guitars sell for, but I'd agree that you are selling yourself short price wise. Your skill level just keeps getting more and more refined.....dude it is super high end. Just like RAD and Searls, one look at one of your builds tells me exactly who built it. Hats off amigo. SR Thanks Scott. I still cant believe how far i have come. Stu, I sign the back cover and put my initials on the back of the volute before i send them. But yes, still without hardware. Every now and then i make one that just absolutely calls for a complete build. But its hard, and i still barley make my money back. Especially when ebay charges 10%.
  6. why is there a humbucker rout in the lower corner?
  7. Next in line is the bubinga rhoads from above. The neck is mostly done. I just have to radius, fret and carve. So i guess that is not mostly done. It is a 5 piece with Maple, walnut, paduak, and 2 figured maple veneer stringers. Fitted with a wenge fretboard, 25.5" scale. Should come out pretty nice. Pictures of that one tomorrow.
  8. I just realized i haddnt posted pictures of the Ash Carved top. It just clear coated it yesterday. It ended up playing AMAZING. I am really starting to surprise myself on how great these guitars play and feel. I am selling them way too cheap for what they are. After all these i have strung up before sending, i end up really wanting to keep them.
  9. I wish i had known that it wasnt much different than a drill press. I got it last night, set it up today. I was under the impression that it did all the pressure and force for you, with the power of the gear or something. It is no different than pushing them in with my drill press. I still have to press as hard as i can on it, which completely defeats the purpose.
  10. I get pretty angry too. I have thrown stuff including templates, bodies (not living) and other random objects out of rage. I am a few years past that now. I still get angry, but not i just leave the garage and go fishing or to the gym, and dont do anything for a week until i feel better.
  11. I have done that with black primer, in place of basecoat. It works fine. It just doesnt normally spray as nice or thin as actual basecoat.
  12. Dont be nervous. That is probably the most simple thing to do on an entire build. I can do the one like pictured in about 5 minutes with an angle grinder. Probably even less, actually. It will be natural. I never cover up mahogany. You will be fine, just draw it out first.
  13. I use an angle grinder. Removes wood fast, and is easy to control.
  14. Eh, i would much rather press them in than use one of those.
  15. Thanks guys. Stu, The volute will be slightly rounded off with high grit paper. But i do like them to look sharp. thanks Scott. I hope i can get through some of these without too much trouble.
  16. I guess i should join in withe new thread. A few projects i just started. Mass amount of bodies Closeups of zebrawood Rhoads
  17. That is pretty much what i figured. Where did you get the set screw you used? or did you make one out of a bolt?
  18. Thanks for the reply. It wasnt so much visible, but when i put a straight edge across them it would rock or spin because it was slightly high centered. I only ever have this problem with ebony. I guess because it is so much harder and doesnt give in at all. I might let it sit there for a while to decide what i really want to do .
  19. So, i want to get an arbor press for frets. I found a good one through grizzly. How do you attach the fret caul to its shaft?
  20. So been working on a bunch of guitars at the same time. I had to sand off a fretboard and add a new one because i had a problem radiusing it and it ended up too thin. So got that one sanded off and added a new macassar ebony fretboard. I also got some new fretwire. It is the biggest size warmoth offers. here is the problem. The fret tang length and thickness is the exact same as the one i was using before (was just one size smaller on teh chart) And yet, i fretted, and i got a horrible backbow on the neck. I havnt had that problem in years, since i had a defective stew mac tablesaw blade that cut the slot too thin. some guitars are just doomed from the beginning. I have never had a guitar go wrong then end up coming out right. Just everything that can goes wrong on them non stop. They either come out perfect or messed up. I dont know if i should attempt to correct it wtih the truss rod or re fret. but i am 99% positive if i pull those frets i will have unfixable tearout, since that ebony shatters and tears out like no other. One day, one day i hope to escape the addiction and obsession with these guitars.
  21. I would just slightly carve or bevel the outside edge down to 1/4".
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