killemall8

I tend to agree, Altough I have an avarage sized Honduras Mahogany body blank here which is havier than my Korina body. Well........that Korina body does have those big ol' holes in it. Which look nice. I've found Honduras Mahogany can vary widely in weight. My Korina is in the ballpark with the Afican Mahogany I've worked with if not just a little lighter, so I guess it falls in line with what Wes has found. I don't know why I expected it to be closer in weight to the Spanish cedar I just used which was by far the lightest body wood I've used so to this point. SR And i have found the same huge weight range in african mahogany. I have gone through probably 300 board feet of it in my years. I have found some that is lighter than alder and poplar, and others that were super dark colored and as heavy as bubinga. With african mahogany, its color determines its weight. The lighter the color, the lighter the weight. I have never came across a piece that disproved it.

Looks awesome man. Really digging that burl. What scales is that one again?

Just remember that measuring the blade to .024 doesnt mean that is the kerf. The kerf is goign to be bigger than what the blad measures.

I wouldnt trust titebond on a scarf with coco. Why do you say "trust" epoxy? Epoxy is much stronger than wood glue.

I agree... I never saw a question. And yet he is acting like all of us are the enemy?

Man, that is beyond any boundries i would have. I absoultely will not change specs after i have started. I did that once, and it caused the entire build to be ruined. I pretty much say No to everythign now. Even on my facebook page i get a lot of inquiries for custom stuff and i just have to tell them no.

This is exactly what i do. I usually only have an inch or so of waste after.

I have used That sherwin williams finish for a couple years. It is extremely finicky. I tried mixing it the way wes did, with the syringes, but that was my problem all along. I used an entire gallon before i figured it out. It kept spraying terrible and full of fisheyes, like it was contaminated. I then mixed it by eye in a mixing cup instead, and it sprayed perfect. The syringes were melting and contaminating the mix. I used it for about a year and a half after that, mixing it by eye and it worked perfectly fine. It wasnt even that demanding of exact mixes. But man, that was the hardest year/ gallon of my finishing experiences. I eliminated every single factor that was causing the contamination, and of course it was the very last one. I never had a problem with it sagging or anything like that. Teh weather is so dry and hot here, that when i would spray a coat, , 15 minutes later the previous was dry to teh touch and dust free. I did eventually end up with a problem with it cracking though. I dont know if it was because of the old catylst or from too many coats. But it cracked from the inside out until it looked like a broken mirror. It also didnt cure in 24 hours like wes' seemed to. I still had to wait 2 weeks for it to fully dry to where it wouldnt shrink back after buffing it. Just some info about my experiences over a couple years with the stuff.

Titebond wont hold in a nut. Nex time, just put 3 dots of superglue on teh bottom and a couple on the side that touches the fretboard. Easy as that.

Drak! You live! I was hoping you would reply to this. I use a hard rubber block for all of my sanding. The biggest problem i had when using CA and expoxy was that within 2 or 3 swipes, the paper is clogged. Same with the timbermate. Its the worst wtih anything less than 220 paper.

Thanks for the feedback guys. I did a test run with sealing it first, filling, sealing again, and it went much quicker. BUT I am afraid of the sealer shrinking back into the pores. That was the main problem i had. ON some past guitars, i just sprayed finish and leveled it until it was flat and the pores were filled. Within 3 weeks the sealer had already sunk into the pores and looked terrible. Does shellac shrink back?

Hmm, I cant see it. Got the notification, but it wont show up.

I still get them on my threads. It shows in the notification thing, then i have to scroll through all of the posts to see which one it was that they liked.

I would say you put the coats on too quickly.

Thanks for the reply. So, in regards to it not staying in the pores, what is the solution to that? Squeeging it off faster, and with a thinner filler?

Can't stand Zero frets. Hate the noise of the string sliding on the zero fret during first position bends... (maybe I should try a stainless zero fret) Glad you didn't color it. I love my zebras plain. Interesting, I never noticed that before on mine. Thanks, that is exactly what i was going for! The kelly/ explorer hybrid.

Thanks for the suggestion mike! I have an old explorer body i am doing tests on now. It has HUGE pores, even for mahogany. It should be easy to fill, but even when i water it down a lot and really work it in, when i sand it back, they still arnt filled. I dont understand how this can be so complicated.

Looking great! I always enjoy seeing your progress pictures. Do you still sell templates?

No sir, that idea is gone for this one. It is done and sold the way it is in the pictures. I do, however, have a new set of plans for the next few. I got some alder and maple. I think will do a black painted back and sides, and do the top with veneer, and red with blackburst.

You use shellac by itself? I have not used it purely as a grainfiller. The spray, sand back method?

Yup, i have 2 jars of it right now. The black and mahogany colors stain the wood, all around, not just in the parts that get in the grain.

Ive used that too, and it dries so much harder than the wood, you sand the wood away and not the epoxy.

Alrighty, So... I have literally been trying to figure out grainfilling for about 7 years. I have used every mainstream grainfilling product and other methods. WHAT THE HECK IS THE SECRET?? Usually i can figure things out... but dang. All this time, and i have still never gotten it down. Conventional grainfillers, i have watched numerous videos on how to do it. It always seems like they apply it, rubt it in, and squeegie it off. I do the same, and it just stains the grain, and when i squeegie it off, it just pulls it out of the grain. I have tried over applying it to cover the whole thing, and then by the time i sand it down, the pores re appear because it is harder to sand than the wood is. What is the secret? I am absolutely tired of trying this for years without success.

I actually havnt done a zero fret in about 2 years. I am still a very firm believer in them. But the market is against them and wont trust them. So i had to go back to normal style to get people to buy them.