JOAMdude

i won't have a top, just simple good ol' mahog->maple->mahog soo i would have my pieces all glue together, wings flush and flat with the neck, and then mark out the angle on the soon to be neck, and use the bandsaw

please?

hey guys for a neck-thru guitar, if one were to incorporate a neck angle would they: 1) glue the wings on slanted? 2) draw the angle out onto the glued neck laminates and run it trhough the band saw so it has an angle? 3) some other method that im leaving out thanks for help john

hi guys kind of hijacking this dead thread here but i figured i might as well not make a new one. just a few Q's For the Dual Action truss rod Is it just one adjustable end? i don't need two since mine will be neckthru The channel does not bend? does it just go straight? and the last one what would be a good length for a 25.5 scale neck? cheers for the answers! thanks! :beer:

awsome work! for making arm contours did you just sand and plane it down to that? for the OFR did you use Stewmac routiing templates?

i have one and it sounds great, big all-encompassing gritty tone. noisy but who cares? (the russian model btw)

why not just make it one piece?

ROFL haha actually i think i put that in by mistake!

good point sorry guys about bringing up old dead threads and whatnot

NEckthru Mockingbird King V w/ Widow headstock 7 string superstrat

hopefully i'll learn :D (do you like death metal?: Death, Atheist, etc.)

is it me or is the body a little bit small?

I was just using the numbers on the questions in the original post when I replied. The number before the answer in my post corresponds to the number of the question asked in the original post. thanks:D (OFR= Official/Original Floyd Rose) oh yeah well i have a template in case your wondering First off, I'm old, so *** is OFR? please try not to use acronyms here at Project guitar, you may not get all the answers you are looking for, since some may not understand the question. As far as jointing?. It is the process of making one side perpendicular to the adjacent side of reference.. Therefore creating a 90degree angle, so that all sides can be planed and or jointed to create a perfectly flat and perpendicular board with parallel lines on all sides. I hope that makes sense. If not, please contact your geometry instructor and look at a 3D version of a rectangle. This can be accomplished using a jointer, a hand plane( takes a lot of practice), a router table or a well setup Table saw. If you have more questions about this please feel free to PM me. MK

great info for nubs like me this is from User- Purple Haze from plans.theFrankes.com Forum This is an easy guide to shimming your Original Floyd Rose saddles to get a close match to your fretboard radius. This way you can dial it in very fast to get very close to a perfect match for best action. Note: Unless your guitar has a 10" non-compound fretboard radius, you will need to shim your floyd saddles if you want good action. This is because the ORIGINAL Floyd bridge radius = 10". You can buy .2mm shims that fit Floyd saddles on the internet in packs of 6 or 12. Just do a google search. To find out how many .2 mm shims to add to each string saddle, see below (note that the D and G strings get no shim): Fingerboard Radius (at bridge) / E strings # shims / A and B strings # shims 10" / 0 / 0 12" / 1 / 0 14" / 2 / 1 16" / 2 / 1 18" / 3 / 1 You can also make your own shims out of coke soda cans (cut out of the coke can skin, which is about .1mm thick) or you can use copper shielding tape (that you shield your guitar with.) If you do either of these, you should measure the thickness with a micrometer. You can also cut up feeler gages to get your appropriate thickness. Here is a table of thickness to add to each string: Fingerboard Radius (at bridge) / E strings / A and B strings 10" / none / none 12" / .2 mm / .1 mm 14" / .4 mm / .2 mm 16" / .5 mm / .2 mm 18" / .6 mm / .2 mm For Warmoth compound necks, use the 18" row for radius at bridge to find out what to add. For some other compound neck, you'll need to estimate or calculate your fretboard radius at the bridge ( the radius flattens as you get closer to the bridge for a compound neck.) this is great

i apologize for my ignorance but i just wan't to know everything i need to know before i start building it

I was just using the numbers on the questions in the original post when I replied. The number before the answer in my post corresponds to the number of the question asked in the original post. oh yeah well i have a template in case your wondering

doesn't that mean ill have high action? what exactly is a shim? just a piece of metal that goes under the saddle that makes the height different right?

i discovered that shcaller makes the nut at 10" but then the bridge then goes to 14" i would like to purchase one of those compound radius fretboards by stewmac and i was wondering. Woul it be difficult to change it from 10-16 to 10-14? like if i just used a 14" radius sanding block and used that on the area closer to the joint at body? or is 16" fretboard to 14" saddles ok? thanks for the help OR does anyone know where you can find 10-14 fretboards?

Read up on compound radius.Jackson guitars with floyds have compound radius fretboards(as well as other manufacturers) this confuses me, i just emailed the support at floyd and they said that all of their bridges are set at 10" radius at the bridge end. how can there be 10"-16" when both ends are at the same radius

been reading around here and apparently one does not fill the grain if you are going to put oil on this?

i was so excited to see it but i clicked the link and..... well whatever can rid your conscious of "what if's"

hey slabbefusk

im not so sure you get what i asked. i don't have a 10" fretboard, it's a 14" and yeah filing the locking nut is nicht so gut. BTW i edited and have a question in above post really sorry to be so chatty about this. but i've just discovered that floyd rose manufactures a 15" nut, would this work for a 14" fretboard? maybe i should just go kahler

im not so sure you get what i asked. i don't have a 10" fretboard, it's a 14" and yeah filing the locking nut is nicht so gut. BTW i edited and have a question in above post

does this mean that having a relatively flat fretboard with an OFR does not really go hand in hand? for example could i adjust the action on the bridge side (the saddles)? or would there then, be an imbalance because the bridge radius would be 16 or 18 and the nut would be 10 and i t would feel weird thanks for help EDIT- just did some browsing on stewmac and stumbled across some compound radius fretboards!!!! so i could install this and the nut would be ok but one question still hasn't been answered. can the floyd rose adjust the action on the saddles for the strings (you know how fixed bridges (it's all ive ever used) have hexagonal screws and you get an allen wrench to adjust the action?)?