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Phil Mailloux

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Everything posted by Phil Mailloux

  1. Phil Mailloux
    I have a friend who chucks those stewmac pads in his drill press for two hand operation. Gotta try that one day.
  2. Phil Mailloux
    Thanks for confirming my suspicions Erik. I'll round it over first. The worst is that I do my roundovers with files and the thought of filing the body close to the glued-in neck sends shivers down my spine
  3. Phil Mailloux
    I'll just be doing a semi-gloss nitro lacquer on this one. I've been thinking about the roundovers for months and I'm still wondering if I should do the back roundovers before I glue in the neck and top or not. It just looks too easy to screw it up once the neck is attached and it'll be so much harder to work around the bass.
  4. Phil Mailloux
    Thanks for the tip Rich, I'll go for those ones. They look exactly like the ones I've been using and I like them already. I'm sure the quality is much better than the chinese ones too.
  5. Phil Mailloux
    I'm looking at some ebay truss rods, the seller is "reduction musical instrucment shop" based in Hong Kong. The rods are cheap, the seller tries to screw the buyer by charging $40 for shipping but that's still cheap for me for 6 rods. Has anyone tried those rods? Are they half-way decent?
  6. Phil Mailloux
    It's been a month and a half now, I've been pretty lazy with this bass but I finally got some work done today. Here's a few pics to show. I'm pretty happy with the look the veneer layers have. It'll look even better when the top will be glued on the body
  7. Phil Mailloux
    Have you been there Dayvo?? Next time you're there pass by my place I'm 30 minutes away I buy my wood at Lazarides in Banyo (Brisbane metro) best place I've found yet, Woodworld is too expensive from what I bought there yet. Lazarides let's you look at the wood as long as you want as long as you buy at least a whole plank, they won't cut wood. Although sometimes they'll make an exception. They adverstise in "australian wood review" if you read it.
  8. Phil Mailloux
    I just had a Warwick Corvette in my hands a couple of days ago and the spacing on that one was 65mm. Definitely on the small side. What I'd suggest is buy a bridge that you like, if you like wider spacing go for it and use your bridge to calculate the rest of your dimensions. I also don't like tight spacings like that, it's pretty uncomfotable to pop and slap. I think that goes for a good proportion of the bass playing community too.
  9. Phil Mailloux
    It's not exactly easy describing which pickup sounds like what and suits what style of playing. All of that is totally subjective. I'd suggest to go spend an afternoon in a shop and try out a few different types of basses.
  10. Phil Mailloux
    Actually a 15mm spacing makes the bridge 75mm 6 strings means 5 gaps between the strings 5X15mm = 75mm
  11. Phil Mailloux
    If you want to see if your neck pocket is the culprit: Calculate the distance from the top of the body to the top of your fretboard - to the top of your frets. (with the neck attached to the body of course) Then measure the thickness of your bridge from bottom of bridge to top of saddle with the saddle in it's lowest position. The part of the neck coming out of the body should be about the same thickness as the bridge so the strings rest flat on the fretboard when the saddles are at the lowest position
  12. Phil Mailloux
    Just buy a 7 string bass set of dean markley's and don't use the low B one. Tune them as you wish. How short and stubby are his fingers? If you ebay around you'll see plenty of asian no-name 6 string bass bridges, most of them have very small 15-16mm string spacing, just check those out.
  13. Phil Mailloux
    Besides the fact shipping is expensive, you may get busted on fumigation fees ($80AUD), especially if you've got bits of bark on your wood. Like spalted woods for example. I never got hit for it but I heard of some people that were. I ordered wood from the states on two different occasions and had no problems at all.
  14. Phil Mailloux
    Cool You'll find it next to the PCB and soldering stuff. Make sure you hold your dremel with two hands to control it properly and make small lines as you go slowly deeper. You have to be careful because that cut-off wheel will make a mess of the surounding metal if you slip up. You also have to make sure that the groove is as close as possible to the mouth so you don't cut the tang too short. Check it out first with a bit of fretwire before you start cutting the groove.
  15. Phil Mailloux
    Make yourselves all a favor, if you own a dremel with a cut-off wheel. Here's my clickable thumbnail tutorial I went and bought a sheet metal nibbler for $17AUD at Dick Smiths, that's Australia's version of Radio Shack. I'm sure you'll all find one locally for peanuts. That speaks for itself, I clamped the nibbler and used the cut-off wheel on it. That was a 30 second mod, I'm serious! The cut-off wheel cut through this metal like butter. You can see the groove I made here Cutting some fret material The end result, sorry about the bad quality picture.
  16. Phil Mailloux
    Thanks very much guys, I was looking at this for quite some time now. Time to experiment a bit now
  17. Phil Mailloux
    Is it me or is this the same exact tool that Stewmac sells as the fret tang nipper? It looks like there's no modifications whatsoever and a lot cheaper too. Can anyone that has the stewmac one comment on the looks of the Klein one? is there anything different to it? Can someone also comment on what makes the difference between the medium and large fret models?
  18. Phil Mailloux
    I do it the hard way, but I have to admit that if I ever buy an angle grinder, I'll probably start doing it the lazy way.
  19. Phil Mailloux
    http://www.conklinguitars.com/accessories.html 0.195" That would be a low C# string that'll set you back $35 just for that one. You won't be hearing much though. If you want to go really, really , really low on just three strings, I'd stick with E, B and low F#
  20. Phil Mailloux
    Ouch! If it broke as in cracked in two then I'd say steam off the fretboard, pull out the truss and rout the neck pocket free with your pocket templates EDIT: of course that implies that the neck isn't salvagable.
  21. Phil Mailloux
    Welcome to PG Hambone, i'm surprised you've waited so long to come over here. Looking forwards to more pics of all your kick ass jigs
  22. Phil Mailloux
    Well done! Very nice Cerb. Do you like the ETS bridge? This thing looks awfully thick. What did you have engraved on it?
  23. Phil Mailloux
    I've got no idea what the Fender frets are like but if you want a CBS 70's type fret size use stewmac's medium/high frets.
  24. Phil Mailloux
    http://www.guitaristjeffmiller.com/guitars.htm Have a look at this guy's Variax modified homemade guitars, you'll probably find your answer there.
  25. Phil Mailloux
    I just found out how to do clickable thumbnails through that other bass thread in this section. Might as well practice that with last week's progress. On the first picture you see a straight piece of wood clamped on my neck blank to cut it to size with the router and a following bit. The second pic is the end result. Cool it works!!
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