ansil

true but logically speaking that kind of falls in the envelope category only because it has to detect the nuances from the guitar. which you can typically find on the net a simple flow chart for standard pedal arrangement. anything that is a filter or envelope type device needs to see the pure guitar signal. ie good harmonizers envelope filters/followers wahs [wahs are more subjective some people like them after everything else] gain devices boost od distortion etc.. modulation fx then time base fx. there is no set rule but common sense will tell you if your trying to use an effect which drastically alters the sound as much as an acoustic simulator really anything modeling at all should go first. but then again you get some cool sounds by not doing it in any set pattern. i have an on board oscillator that i use on a push pull switch in my guitar and it goes before everything, but it produces a nice fat rectangle wave so i have to pad it down before it hits the amp. but i also have a boss feedbacker clone where the dry signal come in but doesn't leave. so only the effected sound comes out with a cool mod to track the input i can take the input signal and trigger the foot-switch to hold the effect in the octave mode so slightly after each pick attack a variable swelled octave rings out. so all you hear is the effect. comes in handy when your playing acoustic or classical and have a haunting lead come from no where. so in essence it all depends on what sound you are going for. this is why i have three seperate pedal boards

you can put stuff where you like but traditionally most like their wah pedals before distortion and in front of the amp as its a filter. but you can get some crazy stuff other ways i have a one knob freq generator i run through the wah.

most commercial studs have a hole for you to solder in the ground wire. not all of them mind you but its quite easy enough to drill a small hole in it and utilizing the proper gauge wire solder it in with a torch will heat the entire area much quicker than a typical iron. also i recommend a vise and a drill press if you have to drill this yourself otherwise it can get messy.

i am not sure but i think i still have a Seymour Duncan p90 in my scrap bin. i also have some better singles well not sure how much better they are i have some that have a definite higher output. i have tons of scrap pickups lying around if you want some are you in the states. i am just cleaning out the junk bins no charge for the sarge man. i also have a roll of pickup wire if anyone wants it but you got to pay shipping on that bad boy. sorry to blab on just thought it might help someone out. oh yeah knobs too. lol

unless your using space pickups your ok on the pots.you may notice a little extra chutzpah from larger value pots and active preamp. but the thing to remember is your not using active pickups but a preamp after the fact. which is a different world than using an active pickup and a passive pot. all the talk of pot size now is really irrelevant. a master volume and a master tone are cloudy terms. luckily for use you cleared it up when you wanted to bypass the signal of the preamp. so normal wiring. pickups to switch to normal pots and tone. take the output from the pot and sire it to switch in and out of the preamp circuitry. otherwise you are full on ten all the time and the master volume after the preamp would be a huge difference in dynamics. not necessarily good or bad just different.

[please note the following is meant to be informative and not condescending ] they make these wonderful things called switching jacks that allow you to do all this with some simple wiring and a stereo cable. plug in standard guitar cable and you get standard wiring plug in a stereo cable and you get both pickups split. My brian moore midi guitar had one of these in it crazy amount of pins on it and heck of a time finding replacement [that is till i said screw it and wired it how i saw fit. then of course my buddy finds them] but it may not be worth the hassle unless you have a route that can handle it.

never to old to learn brother. i got a green fly in that had some wicked hum in it. and i actually had to shield it with copper tape. the inside of my main fly looks like it had sprayed on copper on the inside of the cavity but this thing was just standard black stuff like on an ibanez. same result 20 minutes and happy customer.

actually quite easily done assuming you don't mind taking your singe coil from the coil cut side. of the coils you have two rows of contacts with six possibilities and a common each. make both commons the output. we will call them row a and row b. this wiring assumes that you have two hum buckers that are set up for coil cutting the hot wire will be the traditional switched wire. the cc wire will be where the two coils are joined a b 1 bridge hot nc 2 nc B cc 3 bridge hot neck hot 4 B cc N cc 5 nc N cc 6 Neck Hot nc now nc is no connection, and N cc is neck Coil Cut and B cc is Bridge Coil cut. i get accused of being to technical and not clear enough in my writings so i am attempting to do better at clarity. as a side note my fret guy wanted this same thing in his ibanez some time ago and it has served him well for around five years now but use a quality switch and if you have the tools drill a small hole in the shaft for set screw in the knob. this will make switching much easier.

if always on or you have another switching mechanism for the power then it is fine

ok i wrote a reply at work and it didnt' post so i will try to be brief but informative. there is a tele mod where you reverse the ground on the pickup cover kind of turning it into an antenna. don't ask me why i don't fully understand it myself but i stumbled across the same diagram for lespauls in a nutshell multimeter on continuity and test all the points that are grounded. they should all be connected together to the sleeve of the jack. if yes then i am unsure your problem if no then you have your answer sir. btw sometimes the wiring run to a lespaul switch people have been known to switch the hot leads around

john i love your work i am pretty sure i bragged on it somewhere else as well much thanks for the link again as i lost it in my bookmarks when the desktop died at my shop. to add to the wonderful peoples posts above i must say that i put mine in the neck pocket. no preamp nothing i ran a shielded cable all the way down the channel and wired it to a 3 way switch. with neutral being off. this way i can get phase reversal with the toggle so i am not locked into one setting. now for the electronics part i used nothing. now i lost a bit of highs this way as you can get some truly beautiful sounds out of it and some lack luster ones as well. its not quite as bright as a traditional bridge placement so YMMV. but for my money of adding a piezo disk to an existing guitar i was completely happy with it. [of course i have a brian moore and a parker fly so if i need traditional piezo sounds i am pretty stacked] for the most part its stock strat wiring with a dpdt on off on switch switching the polarity of the piezo and tying that to the switch output position four is like a wah pedal but not quite. best tone i ever had hardest to describe

why not use a single aa and a dc step converter. also they do make small 1mm leds with a threshold closer to a diode but trying to find one readily available would be harder than just putting a battery in there http://www.muzique.com/news/not-a-joule-thief/

can you show us the duncan diagram you utilized? also are you using stock style gibson humbuckers? some people have reversed the shield in the past also double check your output jack its rare but even the best of us have flipped the hot and ground wire by mistake which will do that quite a bit at higher levels. other than that i am not sure

very nice have you ever thought of implementing this concept with old computer ram to make one hell of a delay. if you think about it it would a great way to utilize old computer ram and people can upgrade the length of their delay as well right at home. peter snowberg and i were talking about this on the other forum back in the day when i was going there that is lol. i don't have a lot of experience with adc other than replacing them and building old school ones that are not suitable to my needs in a clean delay.

why not just change the wafer in a dual ganged pot? they come apart quite easily. add a 500k wafer to a dual 100k from radioshack man

now seeing as i don't have access to a mega switch but have seen the top wiring diagram before then yes its quite possible depending on a few factors. one if you have access to a multipole three way switch that is off in center then you can accomplish this quite easily assuming you use the coil closest to the neck as your lead coil on the coil cut switch ie not coil tap because that is the wrong terminology. for you to have a coil tap you would need a multi layer pickup coil with separate [taps] on it for you to choose from. [sorry i am a stickler for details] now if you use the coil furthest from the bridge as your leading coil as well then the whole thing goes off without a hitch with a single flick of this switch till you get to the middle position then you would need to flick the switch in the opposite direction which would keep the original coil cut idea but it would reverse the hot and ground wires on your neck pickup so that it would give you your wiring diagram as you see it. other than that. i would recommend designing a switch to do this for you. it is possible to add more wafers to a switch if your willing to go through that kind of hassle it was well worth it for my five way to a six way switch mod. at least for me it was. btw they carry some bizare switches at my local shop in Chattanooga and they can be quite expensive so as always YMMV.

dude thats some seriously sweet stuff there nice

welcome welcome welcome my friend to the mad scientist club. with that diagram you have officially toked on the electronics crack pipe and i salute you that is some straight up jimmy page from mars stuff i love it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

might i suggest star grounding?

Only if you get the ones that are rolled left handed. fundamental freq of guitar on 24th fret aprox 1.35k. should i cut anything below that on my guitar? IMHO no. i dial most my eq pretty high on my guitars set them at the lowest to around 440hz there is no reason to set a tone control to .7hz. its not the tone pots resistance that determines the freq sweep its the volume pot on a standard setup. the tone pot is only a variable resistor to ground so essentially its a balance pot one side volume and tone roll off ie anything that is below a fundamental note is a volume control. and normal on the otherside. f=1/2piRC for those who don't know it

wowbulkyouknowpunctuationisamustherelolgoodtoseeyafinallycheckingoutthissitesinceitoldyouaboutitsomanytimes

lol man i am not hurt or nothing i actually wanted to see how many people would get the tall reference. and then see of those would get the other meaning of tall. from the 1930's slang........... they didn't say "high" they would say "oh him? hes just tall......."

lol terribly sorry bro i never mean to talk over someones head but i am quite tall.................

Fralin all the way man. i put a set of his in a Paul some time ago and it is sick sounding

actually if you look on the original one you posted on the passive tone drawing its third lug isn't connected to ground as you represented it to be. which makes sense its showing the pots as you look at the back of them mounted inside the guitar. a standard wiring between the volume and the tone control looks like that in the back. the mid control is interesting but i believe its more of a volume for a fixed freq filter. but i am unsure its pretty similar to what my buddies guitar looked like b4 i got a hold of it. i blew it up for you it took me a minute to find it. lol time for my new specs