avengers63

Before you glue it up, take your time and measure it all out. Scarfing it the other way means you usually need a longer piece in front. Make sure there's enough room for the entire headstock, tuners, and truss rod access.

Yea, that first scarf scared the poo out of me too. No way to get over it but to take the dive and just do it. Just a head's up - I'm sure you're aware that there are two types of scarf joints: gluing it below like you have pictured and gluing it to the front of the board. The way you've chosen frequently has a face-plate or side-straps to strengthen the joint. Doing it the other way has the fretboard strengthening the joint. Now, this isn't to say that your way is incorrect or that the joint will fail without re-enforcement. I'm just rhouwing this out there for you in case you weren't aware so that you still have the opportunity to adjust should you choose to do so.

The ghost of Les Paul has come back to show you his disdain for the original design.

Wez said ovangkol/amazaque also known as shedua. SR And that completes the set. 1- basswood 2- bloodwood 3- longhi 4- mahogany 5- ovankol/amazaque/shedua 6- korina 7- redheart/chakte kok 8- green poplar I marvel thinking about where all of these woods originated and the journey they've all taken to arrive at you house so they can be used to make a cutesy little Christmas decoration. Seriously - only TWO of them are even from my continent. So much of it will become sawdust and scraps too small to use. It seems a pity that some of the wood will literally travel halfway around the world only to end up decomposing in a landfill in the middle of nowhere.

jbis 3- Balsa no 5- Jatoba or Kingwood no and no WAK Guitars 3- Longhi yes And I gotta know: How did you come to that guess? incorrect guesses: 5- pao ferro, New Guinnea rosewood, padouk, purpleheart, bubinga, teak, goncalo alves, guyana rosewood, cocobolo, olive, jatoba, kingwood

verhoevenc Screw 3 lol I don't blame you - it's pretty obscure 5- olivewood no 7- chakte kok (aka redheart) yes, but Sardine beat you to it Ripthorn 3- luan no - it's my understanding that luan is a really cheap form of plywood DC Ross 3- white limba no, and 6 was already identified as limba incorrect guesses: 3- anigere, cherry, canarywood, chestnut, yellowheart, ash, hackberry, butternut, luan, limba 5- pao ferro, New Guinnea rosewood, padouk, purpleheart, bubinga, teak, goncalo alves, guyana rosewood, cocobolo, olive FWIW: Wez had previously helped ID 5.

Verhoevenc persimmon no, but great job in trying to make a connection with the clues Cam 7 - Jarah no ScottR 3- hackberry no 5- guyana rosewood no 7- chechen no Sardine 3- butternut no 5- bubinga or cocobolo no and no 7- redheart yes Good memory for the hackberry & guyana rosewood. 5 was used in that project. Here's a better picture of the remaining three woods. (Sardine posted while I was making this post & taking the picture, so only 3 & 5 remain.) Incorrect guesses: 3- anigere, cherry, canarywood, chestnut, yellowheart, ash, hackberry, butternut 5- pao ferro, New Guinnea rosewood, padouk, purpleheart, bubinga, teak, goncalo alves, guyana rosewood, cocobolo

I thought the EXACT same thing. I used it for the body of the Avenger prototype. It was unbelievably dark, almost muddy. Way darker than mahogany. It's one of those woods like maple that really needs something to help balance it out. Maybe it could be used to balance a brighter body like the maple cap does for the dark mahogany on the LP, just in reverse. Peel back the harshness of maple, or give ash some hefty balls. Cost - in the same ballpark as mahogany. $7-$10/bf, depending on who you get it from. Looks - what's not to like? Quartersawn it ALWAYS has a ribbon stripe and a warm mahogany-like glow to it with orange undertones. Flatsawn it's rings way more pronounced with dark chocolate streaks. I think it looks great regardless of how it's cut. Finish - Personally, I hate the looks of the back of this neck, but you spent way too much time and effort into gluing up 13 plys to paint it. I agree with the oil. For the body, I REALLY don't like the reveal in the bevels, and you don't like the looks of sapele, so a black burst around the edges, just barely into the zricote, along with a black back is probably the way to go. You could keep the theme and black burst the back/sides of the headstock as well. If you wanted to try the ebonizing technique I've shown here a couple of times, sapele reacts VERY well to it. It gets just jet black with only the barest hint of brown peeking out through the deepest of the grain.

MzI 3. American Chestnut no 5. Teak no 7. Not a clue Cam 1. granadillo already established as basswood 3. Yellow Heart no, but I would have used yellowheart if what I have was thick enough 5. Goncalo alves no Woodenspoke 3 ash no - wrong color and grain 5 rosewood no, but I believe it is a strain of rosewood 7 purpleheart I remember the dragon? I'm glad someone does, but no. The Dragon was bloodwood. 1- basswood 2- bloodwood 3- 4- mahogany 5- 6- korina 7- 8- green poplar Here are a couple more clues: 3 was used in the first commission I took. It was the base with a bloodwood top. 5 & 7 were used in the inlays of a piece which was never finished. They were my 2nd attempt at making my own inlays. They turned out pretty good too. It's a shame I really dorked up the fretboard when I attempted a shortcut in the radiusing process. Additionally, I don't recall ever seeing anyone use any of the three remaining woods in a guitar. For some reason, we tend to stick with the more "normal" exotic species.

Sardine 1- basswood yes 3- canary wood, but the grain doesn't look quite right. no (and canary smells GREAT when it's cut. This smells like wet dog) 5- bubinga no 7- pink ivory not just no, but HE11 no- waaaaaay too expensive 1- basswood 2- bloodwood 3- 4- mahogany 5- 6- korina 7- 8- green poplar

All I remember seeing from you are these, a couple of LPs, the funky finished V (uber-cool!), and your pointy strat-like thing that nobody likes. I'm sure I could go back and find more if I really wanted to, but those are what I remember. Personally, I have a hard time making the same guitar again. Then again, I don't make whole guitars to sell. The bodies I sell I have no problem doing the same bodies over and over. I just don't show them off here. The Formica-topped Tele body does pretty well for me. I just got in a 7" wide piece of 8/4 canary and some 12/4 sapele. Both are getting split down the middle. The canary for tops, the sapele for the base. I should be able to get three bodies from it all: one for me, and a Tele and PRS that'll get sold. I'm really excited to see how the canary will look like once it's carved.

Whatever floats your boat. I figured it was because they sold well for you. You must have made most of your other shapes before I came along. Understand that I'm not making a negative comment about the craftsmanship or looks - just that you've done a LOT of them.

ovation22 5 - Padauk no DC Ross 1- birch no 5- purpleheart no I've only used the remaining woods in 1 project each. 1 is a common guitar wood. 5 & 7 both smell awful, but finish up nicely. I've never seen 3 used anywhere, and I've only seen it available from ONE seller. 3 ends up being slightly olive-yellow with faint gray streaks. It smells like wet dog when it's being worked, but is VERY easy to work. 5 is very strikingly grained. 7 is bright red with oranage/pink undertones Here's a different picture in direct sunlight. 1- 2- bloodwood 3- 4- mahogany 5- 6- korina 7- 8- green poplar

joshvegas 7- padouk no WAK Guitars 1- Alder no (I've never used alder. I can't get 8/4 clear alder around here) 2- Bloodwood yes 5- New Guinea Rosewood??? that one has to be a trick no 7- Padauk no 1- 2- bloodwood 3- 4- mahogany 5- 6- korina 7- 8- green poplar Y'all are going to have a tough time getting 3, 5, and 7. They're basically never used in guitars, and pretty rare in other woodworking projects.

verhoevenc 1- Maple no 2- Cocobolo no 3- Aniegre no 4- Mahogany yes 5- Pau Fero aka Bolivian Rosewood no 6- Korina yes 7- Bloodwood no 8- Mineral Stain Poplar yes I Like Turtles I agree except... 3- cherry no 8- teak. no 1- 2- 3- 4- mahogany 5- 6- korina 7- 8- green poplar

I hate to be negative, but.... Wow. Yet another mahogany explorer with a waterfall bubinga veneer top and KL headstock. It kinda loses it's mystique after the tenth one. Ever consider something else, or these only for sale? I know you've said they sell well for you, so I 100% get it if that's the motivation.

I don't need any help identifying these woods. I just thought it might be a fun little game to see who could identify the woods used in this project. It's an intarsia piece I started working on yesterday. It's nowhere near done. Some of the woods are a little rough on top, so they might get pretty tricky. The only hint I'll give is that I've used every single one of these in something.

I know you don't like anything but a single volume, but you really should have a 3-way switch with 2 pups.

I'm Australian John so I think you're a smart-ar$e ... as do the UK guys on the forum. Does that count? I don't deny being a smarta$$. I deny being one for giving someone the exact information they've asked for in a clear, concise manner.

smarta$$

It's just your basic template bit - the ones with the bearing below the bit rather than at the end of it. You can get them at any hardware store. I put in some links in the other thread that was mentioned. Now I just have to wait for someone to call me a smarta$$ for giving you the EXACT information you wanted, despite that it's in the other thread.

Gentlemen, I do believe that's the point.

That, sir, is disgusting and wonderful.

That's why you try and order all your parts at the same time. Good job on scavenging for parts.

Wise move. We all know that things don't really come to life until the clear is on. Even if you still don't like it immediately, I'd still advise letting it sit in the corner for a while. Maybe it'll grow on you. Or maybe... just maybe... you'd break down and paint it. You already noted that it should sound great, so it'd be a shame to send it off.