rhoads56

Something like my sh1tbox "workute" ? It's funny seeing you overseas guys talking about Aussie cars when us Aussies are busy drewling over American cars. I wish we had Aussie delivered Corvettes instead of them import and convert jobs and then costing something like $250,000 for a brand new ZR6 Corvette. Wanna run... moite? Had a Magnuson S/C and new engine fitted to the work truck (Monaro) in Feb. $24k, OMG! 120kmph, and it will STILL spin the wheels. Panty shitting stuff. $3000 for a new clutch since then Just need to work out how to make it tax deductable I'd love a Corvette too. Hired one in Vegas a few years ago. But, Ferrari... come to me my exotic little Italian... and make sweet sweet love to my wallet.

Nice solution to an ongoing problem with adding binding after the carve is done

JEESUZ!!! Fantastic mate!

It shouldnt be like that Doug. We are artists, if you want to call it that, but we are also tradespeople, and experts in our field. A plumber, earns more than every luthier Ive ever met. An electrician has $500 in tools. A gardner even earns more than most luthiers. If those trades can provide a six figure income, then mine can too! I used to think I was lucky being able to earn good money in this business. But Ive realised it mostly came down to damn hard work... in the RIGHT areas... that made the biggest impact on my business. Luck, then could be viewed as "well that wouldnt of happened if I didnt already do this other thing previously..." Breaking down what I do, and have done, into tiny sections, analysing each one, and breaking them down even further, really helped me understand what it was that worked, when it worked (this is important), and how to repeat it. Ive gone as far as profiling clients to work out how to tell what a client is like, within 30 seconds on the phone, to best serve that customer. You have an awesome product. You definitely have a good eye for design. You should be killing in mate. But Im going to go out on a limb here and suggest... or ask... you probably sabotage yourself a little bit from time to time? There are most likely a lot of times you lose focus? Where Im at: I planned out all of 2014 last month, week by week, what I will be doing. There is a little wiggle room, but essentually my years is booked. I didnt go into 2015, but I have the work booked. From there, that gives me a big picture, estimated income levels, and a week by week plan. That then gets broken into month long blocks. So, I know when, what, and where to order from (not too early, not too late), I know when payments are coming in for runs, courses, special guitars, etc, and adjusted those to suit a fairly even cash flow, and then set periods of R+R to look forward to. As each month approaches, I then break each week into halves. It only takes about 5 minutes to do a month. Then I know when jobs need to be done, group similar things together to save time, etc. I work with long term goals (3 years), medium (1 year), 9 months, 6 months, 3 months, 1 month, and weekly targets.

Hey guys... So, I have two things for you today Firstly, we have reached the funding requirements to produce a documentary on my 10th Anniversary Series of guitars. I'm building ten guitars, similar to my PG GOTM winning Shark Guitar from a number of years ago... think of these as Shark v2.0 These are going to be very high end guitars, and you can see some of the specifications here: http://boutiqueguitars.com.au/ I ran a crowdfunding campaign to raise the necessary extra funds, and it has around 5-6 days left to go, so if you'd like to be a part of it, check out the link below. HD, widescreen 1080, Bluray with a DVD option too, plus a number of perks and upgrades http://www.pozible.com/project/173550 ===================== The second thing I'd like to announce is a mentoring program. Building a sustainable guitar making business is hard. You know how it is. All the luthiers I talk to comment on how it is very difficult to compete against the big brands. The economy. Their location, etc etc, but it doesn't need to be like that. I didn't have anyone help me out in the beginning, it was all just pure hard work, taking risks, failing, and getting straight back up again. It took a while, but I worked out what works, what doesn't, and how to find so much work, to the point it's so second nature to me now. I wished for assistance when I started out. Hell, I asked so many luthiers and the answer was always the same. Rejection. They all thought that sharing ideas, advice, and assistance would just be breeding competition between us. But, I don't want to be "one of those guys". We don't compete against each other (as luthiers), we compete against the big box machines pumping out substandard, soul-less products. We all have something unique to offer that the big boys can't, but can we see that in ourselves? How do we get that across to the general public? I like helping people, and I LOVE to know that someone has taken a bit of assistance from me, and built it into something awesome. Sometimes, we just need a push, or that little bit of confidence to make a mark. Sometimes it takes a real butt kicking, to make a change that scared us previously. I've got a nice big pair of shoes for that. We won't be doing any building tips, or construction methods. This will be purely "how to market your business, and find awesome customers". It is assumed you already know how to build, you just need help selling yourself and increasing your output. So that's where I'm at now. I want to be that push. I want to be the one that makes the change for someone. I want to help some of you kick some goals. Show you the secrets, open the books, and let the knowledge flow. Paying forward, for the awesome career Ive been granted. Make 2014 THE best year, for a handful of guys that want to step up. However, this isnt a free for all. There are some requirements. You'll need to be already charging for your services (either building or repairs). You'll need to have made those steps into becoming a full time luthier (you don't have to have achieved that yet). You'll need to be the type of person who is driven. I want to work with eagles, not turkeys! Everything is going to be done online. You'll have access to a private group where we can share ideas, download documents, and report in. There will be a bunch of one on one strategy sessions over skype or phone to really nail where you want to go and how to get there, plus group calls where everyone is on the line at the same time. So, if you've started a career in lutherie, and want that helping hand, Im there for you. I can't help everyone, but I can make a difference. Just shoot me an email, I'll send you a questionnaire, and we can get the ball rolling: guitars @ ormsbyguitars.com First round of submissions close December 4th, as I have time booked off to call everyone on the 6th and 7th. If you miss that cut-off, that's cool, we can arrange a time later on. The program will start around March 2014.

How about a video of me just actually working? http://www.pozible.com/project/173550 </blatant thread derailing>

I always shout at the screen "shut the f#$k up and get to the point!". Can never, ever make it more than half way through a video.

If anyone wants some of this glue, I have gallons of it.

My junior takes four hours also. He's slow. But Id rather that, than give him an orbital, and he busts through some binding. Takes me between 30-45 minutes with an orbital. I work as cleanly as i can to avoid too much sanding. I use the most expensive sanding discs i can find.

This is how its done. Steel wool leaves micro scratches which promote string wear, and then fret wear.

Also really good to stuff the magnets in your pickups!

Sure, but if the body joins at the fretboard glue line, and the imaginary fretboard glue line is 12mm above the body AT THE BRIDGE, and that point is, lets say, 250mm from the body joint at the neck, then you need to pack your jig 12mm high for every 250mm in length. If the jig is lets say, 600mm long, then it needs a 28.8mm packer to be at the correct angle (12/250x600=28.8). If the body is 5mm below the glue line, the bridge is still 12mm, so its 7mm over 250 (using a 600mm jig = 7/250x600 = 16.8mm packer) I cant see an easier way of doing it than that. Finding the actual correct number of degrees, then has to be calculated back to a number to find the packer size. Double handling! When I run my courses, the guys draw it out, see it, and implement it in a matter of minutes. I havent had a fool come through the course yet, so I cant say it's fool proof, but I'd be willing to bet...

Yes, the body angle will change. More importantly though, the height of the bridge wont. Forget the math. Ive never, ever, EVER, needed to, or even KNOWN the actual angle of any body to neck join, for any guitar Ive built. It's irrelevant. It is just a number. Even if you knew that angle, transferring it to a body blank is excessively awkward. But, if you've drawn it like I do, it's really easy.

Yes, you can start the body anywhere you like. You could also start it at the 16th, and drop it lets say, 3mm, also. The point that the body starts isnt relevant. It's where ever you want it to be. All it does is visualize, and calculate, the angle you need

Well, you are asking for something that is considered not available... I get emails like that all the time "Hey, Im looking for 6A quilted pale moon ebony with a slight shimmer of grain reflection when viewing from the northeast. Ultimately, it would also need to be straight grained, quartersawn, and perfectly black with no distinguishing features to distract from the second piece I want from you: a single piece quilted Honduras Mahogany body, large enough to build the guitar body and neck from one solid piece... the quilting needs to perfectly diamond shaped with no curls smaller or larger than 1" surface area (I will accept +/- 0.14" either way). Also, and this might be a little more difficult, but the quilted mahogany needs to have a snappy tap tone, and be more tonally like Maple. This is my first guitar, but I did sand a window frame once, so I expect it to be pretty good." ... and then ten minutes later... "Hey, ***? I know its Saturday night at 2:30am, and you are in Australia, but *** man? Do you want my business or not? You guys should feel LUCKY Im even considering you for this order. I could get this wood from ANYWHERE, but I chose you, because you seem like the sort of guy I can annoy easily. Get back to me. Also want some purpleheart, but with a bluish shade. Thanks. Bye" ARE YOU THAT GUY MR SEARLS? I would love for someone to reply with some, in your ANZLF thread. They have just threatened me with a ban for offering a guy some curly maple, when he posted up he was looking for some.

Mix in plastic. When Ive had tiny white dots in the clear, it was from the solvents not being able to escape prior to the surface skinning over. Could have been moisture too, but thats the reason they gave me. It stopped when I used less reducer, and removed heat sources. I use poly or acrylic urethane, 5% reducer max, fast hardner, and the additive hardner booster, and a couple drops of silicone retarder. I spray a mist, then heavy coat. If it doesnt look like its about to all run off, I didnt put enough on. I'll often hang the guitar for a couple minutes, then flip it and hang it from the jack. 320 or 400 for each sand between coats, 400 before final coat. Then 1500grit foam pad, then 3000/4000 grit foam pad. Then buff with lambswool.

That is why your experiences are different... because you are using heat lamps... Without them it doenst dry like that naturally. I have mixed it exactly and sprayed it exactly as directions say... and it never dried on wood sealer. But dried fine on paint. Speaking from personal experience, not opinion... And obviously depends on brand and quality... lower qualites are just not the same, as i have found. Dont assume I always use lamps. I simply added that bit in case you were...

1. wrong 2. wrong If you follow the instructions to the letter, within the parameters of the product, it will do exactly as it says. Ive sprayed final coats less than 24 hours before assembly and buffing, and then putting it in a case, to freeze in a cargo hold of a 22 hour flight. If you are heating the paint to assist in curing, you need to let it gas off first. It it skins off the solvents cant escape, and it will remain soft.... forever. I allow 4-5 minutes for gas off, then hit it with heat lamps.

Glad to see there isnt a "no money to be made, so Im just going to complain". It takes guts to go towards the next step, but it can be very rewarding. If I can help in any way, Id be glad to.

Im a lot less organised. If in the far future anyone ever wanted to document my business and history, they'd be in for a tough time.

Its good to see you treat your customers as numbers. I use their names.

I have plastic containers, that have eight sections to each one. They house my parts like screws, washers, jack plates, small stuff. I then have large rectangular bins, on wheels, for bodies. Work on it, then put it back in the sealed bin. Five bodies per bin. Then as it comes time to really work on stuff, each body and fretboard has a thin container. Large enough for a body blank, and around 3-4 inches high. Then, I have small lunch box containers, for the parts for each guitar. Chuck all the bits in there when I get started on a guitar. That gets chucked on the shelf until I start a guitar, then it goes in the container with the body. Same with pickups. Small container with 16 drawers for the small bits like screws, spacers, etc, and 4 x 6 drawer units (each drawer has three sections, giving me 72 compartments) for covers, bobbins, base plates, and then finished/wound bobbins for each model, etc. Head down to the local $2 shop and check out what they have.

PRS inlays are perfect, Gibsons are ****. And, your hand guided chisel does exactly what you tell it to also. The only people who complain about CNC's, are those that dont have one working for them.

It's only as accurate as the design and programmers ability to work with it. Compare Gibson and PRS inlays for an example.

eerrgghhhh