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When I'm back home later this week I'll do just that! Not sure how to from iPad. Chris

Shall I just export you a copy of my 'lutherie suppliers' bookmarks folder? Haha Chris

I'm always baffled by how long export/upload takes sometimes?! Chris

Gimmie a couple and I'll export that section of my video and upload it. Chris

Also, what KIND of mask did you spray with. Not all masks are created equal. You don't want just a dust mask for spraying, you need an organic vapor cartridge mask. Chris

Or get it acrylic impregnated? I also think it is a poor choice. There are a number of easy-access good choices... even from North America herself. Why use walnut? Find some persimmon, osage orange, hard maple, etc. Chris

Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone had a floyd route that fits Original Floyds? The one you route into the top that sinks the whole bridge into a recess to allow for a zero neck angle. I know I'll get some "why don't you just make one" comments, but I don't want to. I make so many dang templates so often, and also without fail you have to make them twice sometimes due to a TINY screw up. This being such a standard template I was hoping someone would be kind enough to copy their's for me in some MDF and shoot it my direction? Thanks in advance! Chris

Tiz the best system around! A template is just a couple straight lines most times Chris

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Hmmmm.... I'm going to guess no. Mainly the issues with binding grabbing color are with very vibrant and/or oily woods. Think rosewoods, padauk, bloodwood, etc. when paired next to a light binding wood. However, Holly really doesn't have any pores and walnut doesn't really fit the bill for a stain-prone wood when it comes to dust. My initial reaction would be a no. However, it never hurts to make up a test swatch. A test binding scrap is fast and easy to put together. I did one for my Marlin Acoustic build to make sure the concept was feasible: This might also help: Chris

Today is your lucky day SD! So to answer a couple of questions you posed: * Yes, it is JUST purfling. The reason it looks like the grain extends out past the trim is because it does. That's the same piece of wood. * Yes I have a ton of info on the actual purfling technique. It's a technique called radial purfling and it's achieved in the exact same way you do shell purfling: snapping strips into a channel. * No I don't have any shots of me doing it on THIS guitar, but I can easily explain how to do it with the grain extending outside For learning the radial purfling technique check out my youtube video on the subject: As for how to do it without binding, here are the steps I took: 1- Ensure body outline is final and sanded 2- I wanted 1/4" wide purfling (combo of the b/w/b's and the radial EIRW) that sat in 1/4" from the edge 3- I picked a 1/4" downcut spiral bit and a 3/8" collet to do this work. That means in order to follow my spec in point #2 I needed a 9/16" rabbet bit to cut the template I'll be using for this. 4- Take 9/16" rabbet bit and use it in a copying-fashion with your body to make a smaller template. 5- Tape this template in place on the body and use the collet/bit combo to route out your channel. 6- Inlay purfling as per video. I don't have any pics of the process on this guitar, but I do have a pit before the neck went it which may help you visualize what I'm talking about since I didn't bother filling the channel under where the neck would end up: Chris

Design up something new! Truly a shape of your own. Walnut makes a perfectly good body and neck wood. I'd say design a singlecut shape, hollow the body a bit. Walnut body and neck with carved (1/2" worth) quilted maple top. Bind with something to cover that 1/8" carved edge. Maple something simple like holly. Easy to bend, will stand out against the walnut, maybe put a single .020" black fiber purfling line between the maple and holly to stand it out. If you truly just want a spec sheet I'm happy to, that's one of my favorite parts of building hahahahah. Chris

Hey guys. If you build in the Fernandez style, I've got a music store near my house called Victor Litz that must have bought out a major repairer cause they have all their stuff. From necks, to pickups, to 6 inline cosmo black tuners, and even electronics components like 5 and 3 way switches, pots, etc. Either way, figured I'd seen some Ravelle copies around here... and they have a box full of pickguards. Chris

Either that or an odd font and the word "OJ"... not sure if juice or Simpson. Chris

OMG what a loss I always wonder how much amazingly figured wood is lost to firewood, plywood, etc. simply because no one's watching for it, or cares, and it's too expensive to be worried about that stuff in an industrial setting. 5/8" is what some Gibson tops are aren't they? You could easily get away with selling a bunch of that to LP builders as 1-piece tops. If I remember correctly the shallower of the LPs is carved to 3/8-1/2" leaving 1/4"-1/8" at the edge, which they bind over? But hands down feel free to color me jealous. That's an AMAZING find! Especially at the prices it seems like you probably got it! Chris

Oh. And this: Chris

The student was over again and got a little progress done. He's pretty close to sanding and finishing at this point! I also got more minutia done... but that minutia led me to be able to put the Marlin Tele in the white today! Here's student #1 giving it a whirl. Click the pic to play the video: Gotta say I'm happy about the sound of the pickups (sorry you can't actually hear them well cause it's an iPhone video) as I'm still getting used to winding my own stuff. I did however discover that at some point I somehow sheered off the leads from 5 of 6 of my ghost saddles that will run that guitar's variax electronics. Always nice to throw away $100... Chris

I just love that logo!!!! It's cool, yet light. The color and material variety options are just amazing. Really well executed design IMO. Chris

So most of my projects are in a stage where nothing I do makes any drastic aesthetic differences. At the end it's all boring stuff like cavities covers and tiny holes to attach stuff and sanding However, for the first time in a good while student #1 was able to pop by to work on his build. It's really coming along quite nicely. He really has a knack for carving well IMO: Couldn't fully decide what pickups he wanted so we went with a bathtub route to make sure he had options moving forward. Really nice heel transition and neck carve going on on the back. Chris

Close call between those last two. But for some reason I'm just such a sucker for tele-inspired redesigns! Chris

Nope. Things can be magnetic and not conductive (I'm not 100% sure on this one... but I THINK an example would be ceramic magnets?) and things can also be conductive but not magnetic (like copper essentially 0 magnetism... but in theory it has SOME). Then there are obviously things that are both like most stuff with iron in it. Chris

This I'll get in on! Chris

Out of your league?! You should try it, it's really not as bad as it seems. The key is choosing the right adhesive that gives you good open time. For plastics I use the acetone/titebond method, for wood I use fish glue which gives me HOURS of open time but still gives me high initial tack. Chris

Welcome aboard. Chris

Care to elaborate? That's a pretty wide need. What are you actually looking to do? Chris