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Welome Josh. The sealer shouldn't effect anything but level sanding. You can get a decent result with rattlecans, depending on what you want. A cabinet shop probably doesn't have experience with what you are looking to do unless it's a natural finish. Most production auto shops aim at achieving the same level of orange peel that you see on production paint work, go look at your car and see how much orange peel there is. A custom paint shop will be looking for minimal to no peel. As far as a finish schedule: Prime Guide Coat (this is a thin layer of paint used to sand off and see that the primer is straight) -Block sand. Using a flat sanding block sand to remove the guide coat, you are making sure the primer is straight not just smooth. -Fill any low spots left with guide coat and finish block sanding. Sealer if your chosen finish calls for it. (For instance House of Kolor requires you seal their primer before applying paint, you CAN NOT paint on their primer) Base coat, artwork etc.. Clear Color sand, cut, buff and polish. That's the basic. John Kosmoski has a great book on custom painting if you really want details.

The UV testing they do in the labs is more than color, it also tests for adhesion and other issues. They simulate years of weather changes etc. My point is when the spray a scrap experiment is used we only know that something will not blow up, fall off, peel etc. right away. We don't know what 3, 5 or 10 years will do. How many posts have we seen around here where something has fallen apart weeks or months later? I think there is too much if I spray it now and it sticks that we've tested and everythings great, and thats okay for your own instrument I guess. But it's a gamble in the long term much like crossing brands of uro's. We are doing a disservice to people when we say ignore the manufacturers instructions and see if it works out. The guys I've meet who write the tech sheets are great painters who care about people's paint jobs and don't just write what they do for the money.

This isn't really a test, its a check to make sure nothing blows up right away. Its probably fine for your own personal instruments, but for customers you never know how long it will really last. When you spend time talking to people who really test, they use UV baths and electron microscopes, etc to test. They know what their product will do over the long term. It's also how House of Kolor knows long term that their products are not compatible with even other products from their parent company Valspar. While every Uro is essentially the same the amount and strength of solvents is vastly different.

Here's the first thing to consider. A paint booth exists first and foremost for safety. Keeping stuff out of your paint is a side effect. Even water based paints have health risks. So eye and breathing protection is a must. A paint suit and gloves are also a great idea. The paint suit will also reduce the stuff that ends up in your paint by great degree. I would build something with a frame that is sealed and has controlled airflow.

The difference if something is hardend or not. There are many 2 part sealers that wouldn't require a clear because they are hardened. Part 2 of these paints is the hardener. But your typical uro basecoat wouldn't hold up becuase they are not hardend. Typically masking tape can make them lift they need the solvents from the clear to bite through and make the whole surface 1 film that is durable. Single stage paints are hardend when it's two part. If the rattlecan says it doesn't need a clear or mention it then you should be fine without clear.

The difference if something is hardend or not. There are many 2 part sealers that wouldn't require a clear because they are hardened. Part 2 of these paints is the hardener. But your typical uro basecoat wouldn't hold up becuase they are not hardend. Typically masking tape can make them lift they need the solvents from the clear to bite through and make the whole surface 1 film that is durable. Single stage paints are hardend, most stuff in a rattlecan is hardened.

Link fixed. I got a Black Studio Dot in this shipment, we've bonded and its not going anywhere. The Epi dots are great deals. I have shipped some guitars overseas in the past, I guess it depends on what the retail cost is where you are at. They would be comming from 89117, 18 lbs to Scottland or England is $75 estimated on the USPS site. It might be cheaper through Paypal. So its probably workable...

I just got a shipment of "used" guitars. These come from the factories to a company that inspects and repairs them, if needed. They could be overstock, returns, or damaged in shipping. They are pretty up front about repaired damaged when I've talked to them. They replace the serial number and stamp them used on the back of the headstock. There is no manufacturers warranty. I also inspect and test these before offering them. That being said I spent most of today playing and examining these, its a hard life. Except for the strat nothing I could find as far as the faults. Certainly nothing that effects playability or tone. Resonable offers conisdered. Full picture sets here. First Up: Epiphone Dot Blonde $350 shipped in the US, no case. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47b8ce35b3...3D720/ry%3D480/ I can't find a flaw, it plays and sounds great. Next is an Epiphone Les Paul Ultra II: $660 shipped in the US with generic hardshell case Piezo/Nanomag acoustic Pickups, Gold Hardware, Black Quilted top, yup it has it all. The pickups on this do what Les Paul pups should do. The satin neck has a nice feel to it, a little thinner than most lesters. http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaserv/47b8...46108EcNWjJw0bo Squier Affinity Jazz Basses (Blue and Black)- $160 no casses http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaserv/47b8...46108EcNWjJw0bo http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaserv/47b8...46108EcNWjJw0bo Squier Affinity Strat: $140 shipped in the US no case 20th anneverisary neck plate. Slight marring on back by strap button. Great for a burst over project. http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaserv/47b8...46108EcNWjJw0bo Epihone Les Paul Standard Ebony: $420 Shipped in the US with generic hardshell case This one plays killer and sounds just like a lester should. Good hardware, just as good as any "real" one I've played at GC recently. http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaserv/47b8...46108EcNWjJw0bo Gretsch G5105 accoustic: $450 shipped in the US no case Solid top, good player. Fishman electronics. Great looker. http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaserv/47b8...46108EcNWjJw0bo Hamer SATF: $325 shipped in the US with generic hardshell case Great look and feel. Sounds great hard to beat. http://im1.shutterfly.com/procgtaserv/47b8...46108EcNWjJw0bo Feel free to email or pm questions. Paypal accepted. If there's something your looking for let me know and I'll see if I can get it. Epi lesters and midgrade acoustics from a lot of brands they have lots of. I'm considering a run of Starcaster's for the xmas crowd big discounts if I can get some preorders.

Since the layers interlock, I would bet yes. Remember that when you put wet paint on top of a previous layer they should "melt" together into one layer. Its part of why mixing brands of 2 part uro's is a dangerous idea.

Same thing different marketing terms.

It looks like a low to medium gloss black to me. Either a flattened single stage black or maybe even a black sealer that is catalyzed if you have spraygun. If your rattle canning it, just look for a flat black. Make sure all your prep work is perfect first...

I've heard of these problems with all nitro lacquers, I've heard stories of vintage instruments ruined by straps and stands. It has to do with the chemical makeup of the other material.

Never tried it but Dave Monig, the owner of Coast Airbrush, was recomending their products in his q&a column in Airbrush Action magazine for someone looking for an a rattle can solution for a guitar. Coast does carry the primers and clears now. I would call them and ask if they have any hints or tips for using the stuff, they're pretty helpful and very knowledgeable peolple.

It also probably depends on where you live, my shop left to its own would be 100 on its own. Gotta love the desert.

You need to heat the entire surface at the same time and temp, a spot light won't do that. You would want to raise the ambient temperature more than apply heat to one area. Otherwise you are baking the surface and trapping solvents. It can be done, but it is way easier to screw up than get right. If you see what they use for cars its long racks of infrared lamps, nothing like a spot light.

That looks like your middle one with an orange burst around it to me.

I asked some House Of Kolor people about it and they said its all technically a polyeurethane since every manufacturer blends resins, binders, etc... (poly meaning many) John Kosmoski, founder of HOK, often calls their products a poly, confusing the automotive guys who don't wear masks. The difference is somewhat in marketing and just industry terminology. Automotive Uros, or 2k are called such because they are formulated to work and act different than the stuff you buy at Homie Depot for furniture. And I don't know of a retail sold 2 part poly for wood. This is even further skewed by there being no conisistent use of the term from industry to industry or manufacturer to manufacturer. Company A might call thiers something different than company B to seem edgy and new and kewl. It is both fascinating an boring if you get kustom painters talking about this, they can go on for days if there's plenty of beer on hand. Not being a chemist I just want to know what will work and how to apply it. Thus is stick with complete systems and follow the tech sheets. Then people Uros and Enamel aren't compatible but every pinstriper loves their One Shot, which is an enamel. What's really great is all this is about to change as California keeps toughening the enviormental restrictions and oil gets more expensive, the industry will shift to water based paint as Europe did a long time ago. This years new rules in California had the industry freaked but the dust appears to be settling...

Tricky aint it. Also put it right on the gun so you really know what your getting at the gun.

Regulators are regulators or so I'm told. The thing to watch also is if your gun has a built in air control that's a cheater valve too. The best way to know is to buy something labeled as a regulator on the package. Before I took the HOK class I bought air adjusting valves thinking they were regulators. Also check out the How To Spray article in I think this months Rod & Custom. It's by Brian Lynch, HOK's tech guy and the guy who taught my class. It's very good stuff. Regulator: Air Adjusting Valve/Cheater Valve:

I just switched from an Iwata LPH-80 for my clear gun to a Sata 3000rp. I run about 80 at the compressor, and reduce it with a regulator in the booth. The Sata I start around 29 psi and adjust from there the Iwata around 20. Make sure you are using a regulator to control your air presure not an air adjusting valve or a cheater valve on the gun. Regulators keep presure constant, cheater valves or air adjusting valves work by percentage so as available air goes down your air to the gun goes down and you loose atomization. I doubt this is causing your problems DGW, but want to make sure anyone reading this gets the info. I didn't know any of this until I took some tech training and it blew my mind.

The thing the HOK class taught us was "Paint so it can flow not until it flows." It was interesting to watch as the clear flashed it would lay out and the orange peel would disappear.

True, but if you cannot deliver the project due to these issues, then what's the difference? That you now have solvent pop and adhesion issues. The guys that write the tech sheets do a lot of testing and know what they're doing in my experience.

Yes but it's slower to flach so the solvent has more time to escape. Also there are different temperature reducers in some systems that slow or accelerate flashing.

RA16 you can only let it sit if your product doesn't have sepecific time windows you HAVE to stick too.

Complete system would be the same brand/system from primer to clear? It used to happen to me also when spraying to heavy, try a dry coat and see how it goes. Also call dupont they should help you troubleshoot.