westhemann

Not really.

A good trick for getting a thinner neck is to use a thinner fretboard as well.I use 3/16" fretboards instead of 1/4".Yes 1/16" does make a difference. I also use volutes and place the top end of the rod right above that volute.It lets me go a hair thinner than otherwise.

Uhhhh...all of the above?

That IS interesting..I guess you shoot the fretboard thin?film thickness I mean?And there are not problems with fret seating?I may try that next time i finish a fretboard. The catalyzed varnish worked well.I am extremely happy with it.It's hard to say how durable it is,but so far I am not having the scuffing that I used to when i finished out of a spray can with deft.It definately builds better and is clearer.It feels similar in hardness to a nitro finished gibson,without the stickyness.I guess only time will tell how well it holds up... I don't know if you saw the guitar.I did have some finishing problems that hopefully won't recur again,but it was my first time with that finish. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...28048&st=75 Oh...the catalyzed varnish was sherwinn williams sher-wood water white conversion varnish.

Okay,but let me give you a suggestion or two. To shape the back of the neck with it attached,the most inexpensive tool you gan get that will work well would be a good wood rasp.A long one,because you will need the length to shape around the body join. I hope you already have the neck face jointed,because doing that with the neck attached will require a certain level of skill with a hand plane. I don't recall if you said what type of bridge you were going to use,but if you have not already decided,then you are going to have to try to find one with sufficiently low string height to allow for the extremely low body/fretboard ratio,since you don't seem to have a neck angle.I don't believe that you will be able to make a standard 1/4" fretboard work for that.Most times(without a neck angle)the BOTTOM of the fretboard is 1/8" to 3/16" above the guitar top,and that is to allow clearance for a RECESSED floyd rose....one of the lowest bridges you can find. So you will have to choose carefully.I think you said last you were turning it into a bass?scale length problems aside for now,look into the Badass bass bridges.I am only slightly familiar with them,but i believe they may have a working height similar to a recessed floyd. Now back t the scale length.You have enough neck length for the minimum 32" bass scale??(there may be a 30",I am not all that familiar with bass guitars..) The thing is,playable stringed instruments are built to EXACT measurements as far as the playing surface goes.You can play around with headstock angles,string trees,body shape,pickup placement,and all that stuff to a fair degree...but you don't jack with the playing surface.

The pod pro stuff is best for direct recording rather than live sound.

Sorry to say,dude,but I think you should start over.This time with a plan.I have no idea how you are ever going to get proper fretboard height or ever shape your wings or neck profile properly with it all glued together rough cut like that.I say that because I made the same mistake on one of mine a while back,and it sat in the corner for over a year before I finally cut it back apart and started over.

When I first started building necks,i rounded the back with sandpaper.I bought some beltsander paper and used it side to side like a towel with the neck supported at both ends between two chairs.TSL602000 suggested this to me and it worked like a charm.But that was only on my first two necks,after that I started using a rasp. As far as the paint goes,that depends on a lot of factors,like Doug said.On my last one I bought a gallon of catalyzed varnish and i used about a quart i think on that guitar,but it was fretboard and all.Nice thick finish. By the way,Doug,that is the one I used that flamed fretboard on that I got from you.I love that fretboard.

NEVER...rout anything without the hardware in hand.

Bluebook values are next to useless these days.Ebay has killed the guitar resale value.You can buy a Jackson USA for $1600 at guitar center,then try to sell it back to them 3 months later and all they will offer is $500.(true story)They say it's because of Ebay,but regardless,guitar center can suck it.In my opinion,if they can only give back $500 for it,then they should have sold it to me brand new for under $1000. Guitar traders have turned into used car salesmen.

My ultimate vice is a good cup of coffee.Gotta love a good vice.

What's an ak-u-stik? What does "cleen" mean? Seriously,I only play clean every once in a while.And my nieghbors don't seem to care,so i play LOUD AS HELL....seriously...concert volume.

I believe that the 18" rod is measured end to end. I used an 18" in a 24.75" scale guitar before and it worked fine,but it was a 24fretter.I don't recall exactly where the end came out.but I think the 14" one would be too short.

I understand what you are saying,but at the same time you admitted i was correct.I just want it understood that the $300 guitar with the HZ and "liscensed" Floyd is not the same thing as the one with the 81/85 floyd original combo. Mostly it is a subjective issue...but now you know my take on it,do you not? There is one other thing though.For me,it took several guitars worth of experimenting to find out what worked for me and what did not...so I just really believe it takes a few projects before you get the real deal.

For a guy with level head in your name,it seems you really aren't.What's up with that? Read my posts again.I railroaded nothing.But obviously what I said was true.All it really boils down to is are you more interested in giving the facts to a potential new builder,or in shining the guy on with a "rose colored glasses" style vision. Anybody that asks the question "Is it cheaper to build or buy" on this forum is going to get my full opinion,regardless of whether it agrees with your opinion or not.I have spent multiple thousands on equipment,wood,and hardware on building,and so far I only have two truly exceptional guitars out of it(by my standards),with a third on the way.the 4 or so before were not good enough. So trust that I will not back down on my opinion that exceeding the quality of the Alex Laiho LTD is highly unlikely on a first build,and even more unlikely is doing it for less money than the LTD costs. My point was,and still is,that i build to exceed the quality of what i can buy,and only recently do I feel confident that I can build a top quality guitar for less than I can buy the equivelent custom.And that is only because my time is free for me.

You don't have a guitar with a Floyd rose original and EMG 81/85 pickups for $300 new.The least expensive i have seen is more around the $650 - $700 mark.

First time it fails on you while working on a $300 piece of figured bubinga you will stop using it,I promise.

You do realize that a basswood V is unlikely to balance properly.I always use mahogany or denser on V shaped guitars. I would not go by what was used in the eightees...I think that is false anyway.The eightees were big for alder and all maple guitars.Especially for "shredders". And yes,I know this is an old topic.I don't read these basswood topics much.

$300 for all parts and wood to build a guitar? Well,i don't know about that,but the proper bridge and pickups on my guitars cost more than that.If your dream guitar consists of a $20 bridge and $40 pickups,then you might as well buy an epiphone,squire,or ltd... For me,the whole purpose is to build a BETTER guitar,not a cheaper one.

No...the tape is never going to happen again...I just have no luck with it. Before I build again,I am going to make a series of jigs and templates that will work more consistently.

I played a Blue Voodoo once...very nice amp.

The tape just does not work sufficiently,one small kick and the router moves it.I am talking about only a mm or so,but it's too much. But yeah,the 3m is what i have.

You only celebrate birthdays that are multiples of three? You are wierd,Dude...

Laminate trimmer or palm router?I have the palm router but I have yet to use it.I bought it because I think it will work better with routing pickup and bridge routs with my template clamped.I have been having alot of problems with double sided tape slipping on me,so now i clamp the template,which limits room for a large router base.

Be careful buying inlay on ebay.From what I understand,alot of it is super thin and does not take sanding to radius very well.Having said that,I have never used it myself.I think that I would stick with the reputeable guys already mentioned.