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westhemann

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Everything posted by westhemann

  1. westhemann
    hehe...mattia posted whilst i was typing.only difference is the drill holes,which i think would help make sure the joint clamps tight,especially in harder woods
  2. westhemann
    if i were to do a scarf joint(i don't),i would put a very small finishing nail in one piece(in the cutoff part),cut the leftover part of the nail down to about 1/16" to 1/8"(soall that is left is a small pin),fit it against the other piece dry and apply just enough pressure to indent the wood a bit,take it back apart,and drill a tiny hole for the pin to slide into,retest the fit,and then glue up... basically a fancy,tiny dowel system i just do alot of neck lams...
  3. westhemann
    there are many different ways to achieve results...if the two bar clamps work for you,keep on with it...i use a combination of bar clamps and spool clamps on everything...and i usually prevent joint slipping in different ways.finishing nails in unused areas,wax paper-backed straightedges,stuff like that.nothing set in stone. the only thing i would not do is wait too long before clamping...max 5 minutes,usually less,before i get the clamps all set...and i do the squeeze out gradually...1/2 turn here,1/4 turn there,until all clamps are snug. main thing is,on a wide joint such as a neck lam,waiting until the glue sets a hair can result in the middle section of glue getting trapped in there...i want as thin a joint as i can get..and for me(and most others i would guess)that means having the main squeeze out occur while the glue is at it's runniest
  4. westhemann
    just want to support verhoevenc for a sec...i completely agree that waiting 15 minutes before clamping will result in visible glue lines...
  5. westhemann
    i have my very own copy,i bought it when i first got into this hobby,along with bob flexner's finishing book. in my opinion if a person is too lazy or ignorant to purchase a cheap book in the proper manner,they will never cut it as a guitar builder. but i feel the same way about cd or dvd piracy...most especially music cds...how is a band or a person supposed to be able to survive and be artistic when they also have to keep a full time job in an unrelated industry to make ends meet,just because nobody wants to buy anything anymore
  6. westhemann
    i have the hiscock book...i think everyone who is serious about learning the basics before ruining wood should read it several times... but i am a firm believer in a good library..books are something to be cherished and kept,rather than thrown around via internet
  7. westhemann
    yes it was the trem king himself that joined in..very nice product really
  8. westhemann
    it is true IN GENERAL...but it is not that noticeable. i prefer set necks or neck through...but that is just me
  9. westhemann
    it is quite a nice transition...but fairly standard. it looks quite nice,but in truth there is no reason to take it back that far...your hand will hit the cutout before your palm hits the heel...ideally you should palm the heel at the same time you reach the upper frets
  10. westhemann
    yes you can do it.you have to put a thick enough coat of clear on it so that when you sand it back level(to get rid of the raised part over the stickers)you don't sand through. read the tutorials on the main site
  11. westhemann
    really,sound bites give you absolutely no clue to the sound of the amp....not in my experience anyway...you reallyy need to try them in person. i got lucky with the engl amp...guy on the forum let me try his out for a couple of weeks so i could see if it was what i wanted.to be honest i have never been more impressed with the versatility of an amp...it really,really is worth trying out plus on top of what the amp can do,you can add distortion pedals if you want to the clean channel,and it handles them really well.
  12. westhemann
    http://www.guitarcenter.com/shop/product/b...full_sku=480774 pretty reasonable price too.i like the seperate reverbs for each channel
  13. westhemann
    the eq runs through the effects loop(it is a rackspace)...so i don't know
  14. westhemann
    alex skolnick is da man...i watched a little thing back then of them recording "practice what you preach" and he was playing the first issue of the ibanez sabre s540(the one that says "custom" on the fretboard) ...and about 2 years later i bought the exact same guitar in south carolina...i still have it,and though i have a warmoth neck on it right now,i still have the wizard neck waiting for me to refret it.now it has emg 81/s/s pickups in it,and it is the most versatile guitar i ever owned.anything from the clearest,most articulate metal on up to stevie ray...it's got some real spank on the neck pickup...add to that the edge trem in cosmo black and it really is nice i need to build up my refret skills first though,because i do not want to chip the board...
  15. westhemann
    treble,duh...hehe
  16. westhemann
    i totally disagree about the recto...i just find it tonally less alive than the others mentioned. the engl sounds great through marshall 1960 vintage cabs.but then again you have to realize amps depend heavily on the style played through them.for my type of fast,technicall-ish thrashy death sort of metal,an engl or marshall(when tweaked right through an eq) is perfect. recto is better imo for the slower kind of stuff. thatls why you need a marshall or an engl. try out the peavey jsx while you are at it...i found it a bit too noisy at the volumes i play,but you may find it more to your liking...plus it is hard to beat for the price
  17. westhemann
    i have gotten many truly great metal tones out of different marshalls...with a pedal in front right now i run an engl powerball through a 12 band eq and a sonic maximizer,with a tc effects rack for reverb and compression,and the sound is right where i want it straight out of the box?no amp is likely to give you perfection...a cheap rackspace eq really helps out though
  18. westhemann
    the vht pittbull is supposed to be pretty bone crushing distortion.but at somewhere around $3000 it is awful pricey the 5150 is also supposed to be severely high gain,but much less versatile than the pitt bull.also much less expensive. i just got an engl powerball recently,and it really kicks ass...sparkling clean and brutal distortion. but do yourself a favor and look at the new marshall head... http://www.marshallamps.com/product.asp?productCode=JVM410 it looks promising.
  19. westhemann
    an s is a sabre...they vary wildly in quality. some are prestige,some are not.the newest ones have the zr trem,the older ones have the edge. in my opinion,the best sabre ever produced was the old square heeled japan model (s 540?) of which i have one.it is a fine guitar
  20. westhemann
    it always ends about the 20th or so
  21. westhemann
    yeah the scratchplate will cover it,and if you want to swap pickgaurds again later you can.
  22. westhemann
    that is how i would try to do it...but i have never done such a thing...mine followed the contour of the body,as you can see from my pics
  23. westhemann
    i use a rasp.then sandpaper.it's just really careful work. but i say that because from the pic you posted it looks like a straight bevel.if you wanted to fade it smaller as it goes up the body i think you would need to either create a template for the bit to follow(rather than the body itself) or set up a jig to vary the height of the router as you move it,if you see what i mean
  24. westhemann
    i did the same thing on my beast guitar but i used a beveled template router bit.that looks like what they used there too,excdeept on the fret access cutaway you would do the "blend in" by hand http://westhemann.com/my%20music/pics/esp%...tures%20076.jpg http://westhemann.com/my%20music/pics/esp%...tures%20098.jpg
  25. westhemann
    the pics of argytar's are now posted in the gotm thread for april argytar.are you sure you have the terminology right for "neck through"? that looks like a set neck from the one photo of the back
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