westhemann

vibrato is definately better with ss

it's the auditory perception that is greater with a tube amp...the sound is much more complex...and it cuts through the mix alot better

levi jeans are "the" pair of jeans. wranglers are "a" pair of jeans pardon me sirs,but would you have any grey poupon? lads?i need the ultimate pants?

believe it or not...i used to press them in,but now i use a hammer(plastic tip) i get the same quality,but less cumbersome.but i do glue my fret ends(ca glue) i have had zero problems with either method

what are you going on about?

not going into gotm... there are(as i said) a few finishing flaws,and one other snafu(which i recovered from a long time ago)and i would not feel right about putting it to gotm rest assured next time i enter gotm the guitar i enter will be perfect or so close as to not matter.but not to worry...nothing at all wrong with the way this guitar looks or plays...i actually quite love it.it plays like butter and the tone is superb.i made some mods to the kahler and it is really a kick ass instrument.

i used xylene for the thinner rather than butyl acetate...the guy at sherwinn said it was much cheaper...so check on that

color tone is what i used...though it takes a bit longer to fully cure when tinted for some reason. yes it burns in...at least,i found no witness lines when sanding...and iirc it claims good burn in on the sheet that comes with it.but i think that is only ifyou rfollow the spraying schedule(45 minutes between coats) after full cure i always scuff sanded for adhesion

hmm...oh well,old age is getting to me i guess. why couldn't you just be from china?at least i know where that is ... so i will change my original thing to "hey...you swiss people are cool...gotta love a country full of cheese with holes!" better?

10s wouldbe fine i tune to D with 9s

hello...i like your username. all you swedes are cool anyway...gotta love acountry full of metalheads

yeah i don't know what the name means either.the product does claim 24 hours to full cure...but you have to keep it above 70 degrees while curing. in reality,it seems to reach ultimate hardness after a few days.i sand in the first 24 hours,and buff after a few days.i assembled a week after final topcoat,and i had no problems. i do not know how much a gallon will do...in all of my playing around on scraps and doing this single guitar,i used about 1/4 of the gallon.i think without wasting on scraps,i might be able to do 10 or more guitars with a medium thick finish(this one is a thick finish...)

it's pretty good stuff.it's about as hard as nitro,but claims to be resistant to checking. it doesn't seem to deaden the sound any more than nitro either...i guess i would have to say it is just like nitro,except the clarity is better.and it cures quicker

you can use a regular floyd locking nut... is the piece that broke the clip for the string ball?because that is what broke on mine and i am soon to contact wammiusa about it.

menaceq...i used ca glue to fill the pores...then i added a coat of clear and level sanded it to 220....then i mixed up another 100 cc batch of clear and added some translucent cherry universal dye to it...shot that 100 cc's...mixed up another 100 ccs of clear with yellow translucent dye,shot that...then did it again with the cherry...then i shot my final coats of clear(no dye) between every 100 cc batxch i level sanded with 220...then after the final coat i level sanded with 600,then sanded to 1200(working through the grits),then i polished with buffing compounds usig a foam pad in a drill.incedentally you can get foam drill pads at autozone for about $3 a piece next time though it will all be micromesh... oh...the finish was sherwin williams sher-wood water white conversion varnish

i'm sorry,i missed this before. i wire mty guitars as hot as i can,and since i never use the tone knob on a metal guitar,i do away with it.the effect is that the sound is a bit hotter,with more attack(highs are a bit more up front) i don't know why,but every time i rewire a guitar(or wire up a new one)it ends up hotter than factory...if i had to guess i would say the factory solder jobs are really poor...

thrash is not dependant on speed or complexity...look at half of metallica's songs(pre-1990)they go from slow to fast and reasonably complex to simple as hell...but they were still labeled thrash metal(that new wave of british heavy metal crap was a misnomer...they were nothing like those guys.)

oh...also...thanks everybody for the kind words...i have been kind of waiting for the dreamcrushers to roll through and tell me all about how they would have done this or that differently...but it's nice that it hasn't happened. there are some flaws in this guitar(all in the finish..a couple of pinholes and such)...but i really feel like it is a very nice instrument.i am proud of myself,because it is a tremendous leap from my others....and i honestly feel like it is a better instrument than any of my bought guitars,including my usa jackson...

i'll tell you somethig else...i seriously worry about those 7 and 8 string kahler hybrids...i was looking at the pictures of them and it looks as if the ball clips are the same size as the ones on the 7300...and if so there is no way in hell any thick ass strings are going to fit.

No. buddy,don't roll your eyes at me...i have been listening to dream theater since they first came out in the 80s(though i am not a huge fan..the point is i am familiar)and i have heard enough children of bodom to know that they draw heavily from them...keyboard solos,shredding,and all.if you can't hear the similarities have your ears checked... maybe lately dream theater may have progressed...but even yourself put them both in the same "progressive metal" category in the other thread...so jump off the "i know everything about music" high horse you are on and start listening to music rather than trying to shape everyone to your way of thinking. sorry if this sounds harsh...but one word replies and sarcastic emoticons are meant to only do one thing...troll for a response try it out and see if you don't agree

okay...so the straight scoop on the kahler 7300..i have two of them...black and chrome..i swapped them out on this guitar to demo them. first off...the black one sucks.don't ask me why because i don't know...it rattled,didn't feel all that good,the barwas sticky...i think maybe these bridges don't have the QC that they should. so i will go on about the chrome one...it is MUCH better.there are pros and cons vs the floyd. pros. 1) the kahler is easily adjustable in every concievable direction..it can be adjusted in every way with the strings on and tuned to pitch... all you do is lift the string off and to the side of the saddle,adjust,and slip the string back. 2)stability...OH.MY.GAWD. you never even realize how unstable a floyd is until you play one of these things...they are in a word awesome. 3)tone...way superior to a floyd...sounds like a t.o.m. on steroids. cons 1)less pitch variance.... yes it's true...they do have limited movement as they are...i think you could modify it so it swings further in both directions if you wanted... all it would take is to disassemble it and grind the block down...i think slayer must have them modded for that...mine is set so that it dives a limited amount and pulls back to an insane degree 2)this is HUGE!!!pay attention...YOU CAN NOT USE BIGGER STRINGS THAN 42S..thats right...i tried to put a heavier set in(10-54)and it would not go into the ball clip...i normally play 9-42 so it's okay....but if you want to use heavier strings they will not fit...and the diecast(yes,that's right...i said diecast) potmetal ball clips WILL snap off if you try to widen it a bit...you could possibly file the gap a bit wider...but DO NOT pry on them...i now have a ruined bridge that i need to buy parts for... okay...all that aside...i really,really like this bridge(the chrome on) alot...and i have no idea,but i think the 2300 is most likely made with better quality metal...in fact..the kahler site says the 2300 is made of forged steel...no diecast..and i think the clips are probably wider as well so... i think i will just spend the extra $ in the future and get a 2300...but the 7300 is a decent alternative. so...bubinga as a tone wood...use it...there is nothing to not like about it...hands down the best natural tone i have heard...much like a very dense piece of mahogany. all in all i am very happy with this guitar...finally i built a guitar that i can see myself still playing 10 years from now

again...i find myself in agreement with marksound. children of bodm is basically a heavier version of dream theater...alex laiho is very,very tecnically profficient....i can gaurantee that although it MAY look like he is just "going off",he has a very controlled touch.nothing i have heard from c.o.b ever made me think they were "beating their guitars to death"

what he said ^^^ i only used one small square per grit...it lasts freakin forever

bubinga has an awesome tone... yeah it was all preval,but there was alot of orange peel to level out... look at the polish on the body compared to the pic of the rear with the cavity cover...notice the cavity cover is much glossier?i used nothing but dry micromesh on it...polishing compounds on the body...from here on out all i will be using is micromesh

marksound is right....i have a very heavy attack,but i use 1 mm nylon picks and really dig in for the percuussiveness on rythm...for alot of things i have a very light touch though...not like some of those guys though. but if you use those thin nylons you can get much lighter as well.but it does sound,drummerdude ,like you are just a beginner.that's not a bad thing...but instead of assuming what you need,accept that you don't always know it all i don't mean that to sound rude...i just don't know how else to say it