westhemann

wouldn't be too hard right now...because my "shop" is a picnic table in the front yard,a jobox full of power tools,and a small desk in the house for intricate work...i ain't got nuthin' but a 9" bandsaw,a jigsaw,a spinldle sander,bench belt/disc sander(small) and a couple of finishing sanders and a bunch of hand tools...oh,and a drill press and a small jointer i put you in that category because you go through alot of wood...i know you just cut and resell it,but i thought you might have an idea..

i don't use planet waves...i can't remember the name...but they are the best cables i have ever had...they are used extensively in recording situations because they are noise free... i noticed a difference as soon as i swapped over to them...but with my rack and my full stack,i use alot of cables...so a small bit of noise adds up quick

you can get some nice neew ones like that from summit racing

i guess it just comes down to your philosophy in the end...i prefer functionality over looks any day...what use is a pretty guitar that is a pain in the ass? but i prefer to have them both look good and be functional at the same time

i think the stuff i have is just too small really...i guess i was just wanting an orbital sander that was more aggressive than the ones you buy at sears or what have you... see...i have finish sanders out the ass...but i don't have anything that really block levels down to 220 ...if i use the finish sanders,they create small low spots where the backing pad is too soft. i think what i need is the one i linked to i guess...but i did modify my orbital sander last night by removing the soft pad and replacing it with a leveled piece of wood the same size...i have not tried it yet,but i think it will work better... it's not hand sanding i am trying to avoid entirely....it's the part where there are only small imperfections that i have to sand everything else down to...with alder and such it is easy...but with bubinga or hard maple,it is really tough,especially on the parts of the body you can't really get into... probably a lost cause

well..i mean it is small work...your attention would have to be high... http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...UseBVCookie=Yes 7/8" stroke,mini light,and an air blowing attachment...pretty precise but i don't see how you would cut your fingers really....the type of work means you would be going extremely slow actually this one is better...look at the speed range http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...cat=Scroll+Saws and it has a foot controlled on/off switch

yeah..the worst thing you can do is try to force a playing style down his throat....proper technique...yeah...how to play jazz when what he wants is to rock?hell no... guitarists tend to learn what they love first...then they get lessons a little later and start learning obscure styles to broaden their horizons... but there is no use trying to broaden what doesn't exist yet...teach what he wants to play first...expand later

if you saw by hand,the saw shapes...if you saw by machine,the piece moving around the stationary hand shapes... you know?the way you cut out wood with a bandsaw? i think ya'll are missing out...because in truth a scroll saw was invented to do exactly that type of thing...maybe if the desighn was extremely intricate,by hand would be the way to go...but you know ...i am all about the power tools...i just learn how touse them properly if possible i will let you know though...i have every intention of using a scroll saw...they make them very,very small for extremely fine work.

i agree with the frog....how would it ruin the look of the guitar when it is an integral part of the instrument?that's like saying the frets ruin the "minimalist" look of the fretboard. but the input jack?yeah...by all means hide that..but youNEED to be able to access the volume to shut off the volume between songs to not ruin everybody's hearing with microphonics...among other reasons...putting them on the back just seems silly to me

mt internet is sluggish here...so alot of my problems may be due to that as well...i usually can't stay on the net for more than 1/2 hour before itkicks me off

the search feature does not work too well anymore unless you know specifically what keywords to use(say if you remember the thread and are trying to re-find it) i used to tell newbs to search as well..but since i came back i noticed right away that searching was damn near useless...and i even knew what threads i was looking for...the only luck i had at all was if i remembered who posted in it and included their name in the search. the "signal to noise" ratio is much too low now from all the cross chatter in the forum...there is nothing to be done about it...lovekraft warned us many,many times about this happening,but nothing has been done,and now it is much too late without a major forum restructure. so my advice is this...if you know where the thread is,post a link to it...if you know the answer and feel like discussing it again,do so...if you don't want to be bothered....then stay out of the discussion...there is no reason to turn this into "that" kind of place. i know...like said,i went through the same "dang it SEARCH!" phase when i was here last...but it wasn't helpful then,and it isn't helpful now... now to be clear...if somebody posts one more time "can i use pine as a guitar body?" i think my head will explode...but i bet the search feature still works well enough for that...i bet if you searched on "pine" all kinds of stuff exactly on the topic would show up... but if you search for "hollowbody" or "chambering" it is not specific enough...

okay,well.... i have been on a quest to find a way to make guitar building easier and quicker,but there is one part that i am stuck on....finish sanding. specifically i mean the part after i have gotten as close to the lines on my body as i can with my spindle sander and my benchtop sander...then the hand sanding starts...i frequently use woods like bubinga(heavily figured so that tearout is too much of a risk for using a router and template)and hand sanding just seems to get nowhere at all... the orbital sanders and such are useless(the ones you get at most sears and such) because they are not agressive enough and they are always backed with soft rubber... so i am considering going to air autobody tools like these http://www.tcpglobal.com/proautotools/item...itemno=HUT+3900 and just getting a complete line of air tools,a little bit at a time.but before i do that,i would like to know what you guys do and see if there is a better option..specifically you guys who go through large quantities of wood as a business(perry,fryovanni,etc...) the idea is that before the year is up i would like to have a small woodshop set up where i can really have fun building my guitars..without finding myself getting frustrated with things like enormous amounts of hand sanding. i mean,what do you guys who do this for a living use?not just sanding either...i am also interested in other machines as well that make the job better and easier... now don't get the wrong idea...i have no desire to open up my own guitar shop like some wannabe with all balls and no skill...i just want my hobby to be as bad ass as it can be.

well,i would use it more for sanding bodies...but i don't level my frets...ratheri level the fretboard before install...if installed properly and if the neck is made properly,i have no need to level i will be sure to credit any info in my book to you if it pertains to plane sanding blocks.

i just don't see it...granted i have done no inlay on a scroll saw,and barely any at all,but i think if anything the increased control of 2 hands on the shell can only help...as long as you don't pushinto the blade..but why would you ever have it full tilt?your hand can't replicate that speed?rather,you would KEEP it slow always maybe i need more practice,but it takes friggin forever to hand cut shell. i can see why you would think it might snap the shell...but i think as long as the blade is slow and you stabilize the piece of shell you would be okay...

i can't believe you guys have not posted http://www.abyssguitars.com/

as far as i know,nobody sells templates for the zr yet...so you would have to make the templates yourself... the kahler 7300 is much cheaper and easier to install...are you dead set on the zr?because if so i have absolutely no idea who could install it for you,unless maybe scott from vwall could...he routed me a fernandes sustainer into a soloist for me once and he did a nice job...but i think he might hesitate on the zr

wierd topic for the "spam on the brain" type forum members here...maybe it's just me,but the name "costo" sounds like a spammer name...i must admit i gingerly clicked the link and checked first to make sure it wasn't a link to a virus plagued porn site before i even did that... but yeah,we all use different things for sanding blocks...i use a piece of maple i ran through my jointer...but the plane you linked to seems to be a very good idea,and probably heavy enough to be effective to a high degree. but i am not sure what you are asking?it is obvious it will work...so maybe what you really mean is "check this out,i think this is a good idea!"?

you are aware mattia,that a variable speed scroll saw goes all the way from super fast down to barely moving?they can go as slow as like 1/2 stroke per second,maybe slower.that is the sort of thing they are made to do....all you need is a small one it just means you can keep both hands holding the shell still...

i have not seen hezochiah around here since 2004....you may want to try to email him

desopolis...mind sharing where you are getting the alder?i do have a source but if they are ever out i wish to have a backup.

i don't want to try to change your mind on the etching...but i think it would look twice as good with some fine lines etched on the belly like the original pic you posted...and then fill the etches with black just my opinion...i think if you successfully cut that out,then etching would be nothing for you. did you get the little etching tool as well from stewmac?i have that,and it works well

you really are patient then...i have that same saw and those same blades...and cutting out a small demon head took every bit of patience i have.. i have been wanting to get a tiny little variable speed scroll saw so i can start in on the inlays....i think that suits my patience level better

i think this is the perfect place to ask these questions...and i do it all the time...just recently with amps. and since there are ALOT of ibanez afficianadoson this site,where better to ask....except perhaps www.jemsite.com maybe the "amatuer pschycology" thread is more on topic?

i don't care what anyone says,drums are the most difficult and complex instrument in the band,if done correctly...best to start them young like that... damn hard to find really good drummers these days...do me a favor and talk bad about metal now and then so when he rebels as a teen he will become a kick aas metal drummer

no prob,mr.p hehe as you may have guessed i was the kid in school that gave the teacher a hard time..some of them anyway...