westhemann

the only tool you need right now is the "search" button located at the top of the page if you used it ir even looked around even a little bit,you would have found this topic pinned at the top of the "tools and shop talk" section http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=10353 and in that pinned topic,you would have found this link http://hobbyluthier.8m.com/tools.html

well the thing is...you ae supposed to look at the endgrain...and since you have no pictures of the endgrain,i am quite positive you are not sure what you are looking at. but i can tell that there is nothing wrong with them.you can never expect the grain to be perfectly straight throughout the entire length. BUT i would rip em and flip em...that way you can be sure...but i do that with everything...it's just the way i prefer it.

there is nothing wrong with those blanks that i can see.that is what a neck blank looks like before you plane,cut,and shape it and besides...i think you are not looking at the grain direction...i think you are looking at the saw cut

no pics or banners allowed in your signature

excuse me...salvador dali http://www.timebendz.com/meltclock.htm

not as long as you have a big enough bandsaw to run it through with it being that wide.

ugg...well...it's your guitar by the way though,that is not "popping" the grain...that is just a dye job

look.if you already have one passive then stick with passive electronics.it's not the output that is different,it is the pot values needed for proper performance.i would never reccomend mixing them. there are ways in which you could mix them...but it is not worth the trouble. just get another good passive for the other spot and keep it simple

you want him to "pop" the figure on the neck? hmmm...well that's allright i guess...but i wouldn't...in my opinion necks look better with a little subtlety...but that's just me

hey im in the UK to sambo but this is from a friend who doesnt want it so i get it much cheaper The 89' is active? could prove intresting ~~ Slain Angel ~ ← yes...all of the good emgs are active.but really the wiring is simpler than passive.no ground to mess with either. but it MUST be wired with the pots that come with it.and it does not mesh at all with passive pickups.either go all active or all passive.

i use nothing but emg pickups.yes they are good.in my opinion the best on the market for metal

what "figure"?...it is straight grained. there is no figure to "pop"

You do realize when you call bs and your wrong you take the whole deck? (in the card game in case you have no idea what I'm talking about) I did try it and it like it better this way. I don't lie, ever. I will leave it at that... ← just some advice.obviously you would prefer to keep up the charade.

i just don't want to see you influenced by the unreasonable biases of others. basswood is "allright"...just use a trem with large inserts for greater strength....do NOT use those trem screws that screw directly into the wood.you want large diameter inserts like what you see on a t.o.m.(although it doesn't have to be THAT large)

sorry,but i gotta call b.s. on that.i think you just messed up and don't want to admit it.there is no way that "goes better with the headstock lines" just admit your mistakes and move on.nice work on the rest of the guitar though.it reminds me of that melting clock in the m.c escher print

if you want the monkey grip,use the monkey grip.who cares what these guys think YOUR guitar should look like. it is going to be YOUR guitar..so make it how YOU want it,no matter what these other guys (who should be spending their time playing or building rather than arguing about the cosmetic appeal of your guitar)say your guitar should be. if someone with experience building tells you "i think you should use alder instead of basswood for the body of your guitar,because it is a stronger wood for holding your trem inserts and other screws,plus it really has more tonal value(i.e. more frequencies to create a depth of sound),and costs the same money as basswood." then you should give it some thought...but cosmetic appeal is nothing that anyone but you should decide. by the way...my example argument up there is also what i would reccomend.alder creates a fuller sounding guitar than basswood,and is more articulate.

i quarter the entire neck(meaning i orient the grain vertically)...but i never use a scarf joint.mass produced guitars use the scarf joint mainly because it is a less wasteful(woodwise) way of making a neck...but if your neck blank is thick enough to cut the angle from,then don't worry about a scarf joint...especially with a multi-lam neck,it is just unnecessary. just don't make an excessive angle...8 or 9 degrees is usually plenty

that one will work...but all you need is a 15 band rackspace eq with 6 db cut/boost

use the cnc.it is just a tool that will make your life very easy.some guys will tell you the guitar will "have no soul",but i believe that it is the years of playing that give a guitar a personality,not hours on a bandsaw and with a sanding block.

please vees are god's gift to guitarists who play while standing up.and it isn't about what you like,now is it?

no.in amp reverb and my boss metal zone are the only effects i ever use,unless you consider a floyd rose to be an effect,because i do use that quite a bit.i do have a wah pedal..but i can't figure out why i would ever use it.

it is adviseable to finish the neck,not just oil it.not putting a hard finish on it increases the chance of neck failure.which is why warmoth will not warranty an oiled neck

Regular tung oil, yes, it's thin and it just seeps in, but not polimerized oils, like Tru Oil. That stuff can build fairly thick and buff out to a nice shine if you know what you're doing. I believe Toddler's guitar that just won GOTM is Tru Oiled. ← like i said.i don't care what anyone says.i have experience with true oil,tung oil,boiled lindseed oil,shellac,rattlecan nitro and rattlecan polyeurethane...and all of the oil finishes,including tru oil,are very poor in the durability department. and i won't argue with you about it.i know what i know...and everyone just wants to love it because it is easy

you need the same angle(or slightly steeper) the locking nut has...usually around 8 or 9 degrees in my experience.13 degrees is more than you need