guitarmonky55

sounds like a good idea. i just browsed their website and didnt find anythign but maybe they can help me on the phone. i just wanna get this pickup wound... its gonna be so cool!

20 for the cold heat, 50 for the digital station. you can get stations of the same quality but without the digital readout starting at 30. check them out at http://www.web-tronics.com/

im still considered a noob, but ive learned one valuable thing: there are many methods and tools known to mankind to enlarge a hole that is too small. the opposite is not true.

i bought one from radio shack and hated it. maybe its because i tried to build a pedal with it among other things but i dont know. i used it for about 10 minutes and got frustrated so i put everything down and called it a day. it sure isnt an instant heat like they advertise, even soldering 2 resistor leads together takes quite a while to heat up. when the thing finally crapped out on me a few weeks later i returned it and put the money towards a digital station from circuit specialists. heats to full temp in about 35 seconds, adjustable from 200-400 celsius, fine tip. it does everything i need and more.

the woodwell is awesome! i needed a larger than average flamed veneer for my rr v, and they delivered superb quality for 20 bucks!(including shipping!!!). they even shipped my order before i had put my check in the mail!

doing this kind of thing is exactly how i got my feet wet in everything from electronics to refinishing and refretting. its no biggie if you botch a job irreparably on a p.o.s. guitar. its a great way to learn.

well after multiple failed attempts at buying some #44 magnet wire on ebay, i decided to shoot this out here. does anyone have a bit of leftover 44 gauge pickup wire theyd be willing to sell me? im only doing one humbucker right now, just to get my feet wet, and not only do i not want to shell out 25 bucks for 1/2lb on stewmac, but i want 44 gauge since im gonna make a hotter pickup. ive already made the bobbins and such, its a blade humbucker. going wlel so far.

ok so i got an earvana nut for one of my guitars. well i needed to adjust it when i was changing strings, and lo and behold the screws had corroded to the point that when i tried to remove them they stripped completely(yes i was using the right size screwdriver before anyone asks). anyone know the best place to get some replacement screws? i cant seem to find any that small at the local hardware stores so im not sure what to do.

radio shack is WAY overpriced. .99 for 5 resistors?! please! i can get an entire roll of 100 for 1.99 at fry's electronics! dont go to the rat shack unless theres a specific part that you ABSOLUTELY need RIGHT NOW and have no where else to go. i personally build my pedals from a combo of cannibalized parts from my old toys(good thing i didnt throw them away!) and stuff ordered from www.mouser.com and www.smallbearelec.com

I've been wanting to my own custom finish for a loooong time and after months of reading and gathering materials(and a guitar!) i finally am in the process of doing it. its a fairly cheap body that i added a flamed maple veneer top to, so im covering the back and sides with solid blue. im following the re-ranch tuts for spraying colors and im on day 2 of the solid, and alls going VERY well so far anyway, after i do a cool design on the top with a stain technique ive been practicing, im gonna move on to clear coating, and i have a few q's. 1)im using a paasche airbrush and a 5-gallon portable airtank from sears(just big enough to give me one good wet coat of paint so its perfect), but i only have one paint cup for the airbrush(its an old model, i got it from my grandfather and i dont know if i can get another). is it alright to use this for my clear too? i clean it thoroughly after each use with lacquer solvent and then hot soapy water and such, and it looks spotless. but ive heard its best to use alternate containers for clear. 2)what should my final surface prep be on my color coats before applying clear? should i leave it alone, sand it up to a high gloss, scuff sand? im not too clear on this. any help would be greatly appreciated! im really enjoying doing this so far, and so far its going very well, no hitches, and its looking great!

im not going to be the best bearer of advice since this week im (so far) succesfully applying my first spray finish. Im doing it on a cheap guitar body that i picked up for 50 bucks so im not worried about messing it up. and if all goes well, and i must say it is right now, then ill have a damn nice looking axe to jam on too as far as how to get it together, that rule "measure three times cut once" applies here in the reading/learning area too. ive spend the last few months reading many many many finishing tutorials/websites/books/forums and then once i thought i had it i put together a list of what i had gathered that i needed to do and had some experienced finishers look it over for me.

ive got tons of legos that are sitting unused just waiting to be made into pickup winders......except im gonna go with darth vader and battle droids overseeing production!

i tried flipping the wiring(black and green on switch and red and white connected) and when i do so, it operates the same except the coil tap feature position of the switch doesnt give a coil tap, its just a regular humbucker still. im not having any phasing probs or anything, so its working fine. i guess im gonna end up putting a new cable on teh ibanez because i want to use it in another guitar and i cant configure it how i want the way it is now.

ok sorry for being confusing. let me start over and be clear. the ibanez pickup, from the coils, underneath the tape, has the standard black/green/red/white and a shield. the black and green are soldered together right by the pickup, and soldered onto the bare shield in the cable. the red and white come out as normal in the cable. so basically the cable has a red, white, and a shield to ground. when i opened up the guitar, the shield was soldered to the back of the volume pot and the red and white were both soldered to different positions on the switch. so when i went to wire up the duncan, i ended up having to wire the red and white to the switch and both the green and black together and to the back of the pot. i found this whole configuration to be very odd, ive never run across anything like it before. my guitar works fine, everythings in phase and such, it just threw me off a little.

hmm that confuses me...you say i wired up backwards...the 5 way switch has a coil split position for the bridge and the only way i can achieve a coil split is by putting red and white on teh switch? i peeled back the tape on the ibanez and it has a black and green wire, soldered together with the shield in there...

question:has anyone here ever actually burned out a pot by overheating? I sure havent, and ive left irons on them for a long time and gotten them singing hot.

so i was messing around with my ibanez s1620 and decided to try out some spare pickups in it that i had lying around. I opened it up to remove the bridge pickup and found a...3 conductor cable? it had ground, and a red and white wire that seemed to correspond to the individual coil wires like a regular 4 conductor has. so i went to put in a seymour duncan and found that it worked in teh same fashion as the stock pup when i soldered the black/green together and grounded them and then put red and white as they were on the switch before....why does ibanez make such retarded wiring?

thanks man thats exactly what i needed! i dont have the serial number, it was long gone before i got my grubs on the axe. but with this i can achieve what im looking for.

im pretty confident in my soldering skills, i build pedals and small amps too so im pretty handy with the iron. and his guitar is pretty scratched up already so i dont think hes going to go bonkers if i give it a nick or two...although im not planning on doing so.

im currently working on my dream guitar, a severely...um...personalized jackson rrv. i picked up the body used for 50 bucks, and the previous owner had sanded most all of the finish on the body and headstock down(some was still left in places i had to take off the rest). the jackson logo is totally gone now, i couldnt save it, and i want it back! does anyone know where i can get a good copy of the jackson logo(i cant find a good quality image anywhere, i want to use the tut on pg for logo application), and also would there be anything wrong with me re-applying the logo?

wow this has gotten to be quite an interesting thread... something id like to point out to mastermind is that in the above post where you mentioned the example of bending the string behind the nut and so forth...its a completely irrelevant point because the tension of the string evens out across the entire length of it...which is exactly WHY it changes pitch when you bend the string. if you want to get into the area of physics so badly, all the nut does is put a rough limit on the fundamental frequency generated by the string, it doesnt put tension on the string or any of this other hooplah i hear going around here. if anything, the strings putting tension on the nut..but i see no relevance in that point. and since age was used as a measure of worth earlier, ill admit up front that im 17 and probably younger and definitely alot less experienced and knowledgeable than alot of people here

wow i never would have guessed someone could charge 30 per pickup...i mean this in a completely non-confontational and friendly way but i would NEVER pay that for just one pickup swap. i thought it was outrageous when i heard guitar center charged my friend 75 just to put a set of EMGs in. i told him 20 and he tried to offer more, but i said nah its alright im just a kid messing with a soldering iron and so now its set. i dont really care if i dont make a killing from it, i only need 15 more bucks to buy the new soldering station im after anyways so im coming out on top here: more experience, my name is out there(he knows alot of other guitarists), i get to tinker with guitars for a while instead of doing homework, and i get paid on top of that!

he said he insists on paying me, so i figure ill cap it at like 20. im not doing too much, just putting in some seymour duncans for him and fixing the axe up a bit(no i dont need to do any nut work, just stuff like intonate and basic maintanence he doesnt do himself). man 30-40/hr for soldering is a killing! of course, they do have to take in account the harmful birth defects you get from the fumes if you happen to live in california.

ok im going to be replacing 2 pickups on a cheap fat strat copy, probably installing a coil tap and replacing the other electronics and doing a general setup on the guitar. what would be a reasonable price to charge? the customer is a high up in my dads company and word got around that i do work on guitars alot so i scored the job, and im not sure what a good asking price would be. its a pretty low end guitar too that he bought used for like 100 bucks.

im so doing that, sounds fun!