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PerryL

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Everything posted by PerryL

  1. This is off topic Slightly but Here goes. My neighbor has an RD Artist Guitar and the Moog Cicuit Board is utter Crap. They were Gibson's try at Competeing with the japanese market back then and it failed miserably. If you like the shape, shape it yourself and forget the Moog Circuit and try gutting a compressor pedal mounting that inside. You'll have better outcome than Gibson.
  2. Here's how I make guitar body patterns and I wanted to get ideas of how you guys make yours. I don't use CAD drawings or anything from the computer but Use old school methods. Mainly I find a pic from a magazine or Pic from the net and project the image on white paper With my Trusty Tracer Projector, trace it out with pencil making sure one of my necks falls within scale length. I cut it out and transfer that to the wood.
  3. Instead of starting another thread, I decided to use this one for the RR Reverse I started. It needs trimmed up a lil bit but It was a fast body cut and will be a fast finish as well.
  4. Javacody, I share well with others, I'll send you a tracing of it when I get it done. I've been planning on tracing one up anyhoo. I'll PM you when I get it done and you can gimme your address and I'll send it out. Hmmm, How could you reimburse me for the shipping? Your first born? GUITAR. Not Child.
  5. Well, I seem to have gotten sidelined again. I bought some basswood today and started a Jackson Roswell Rhodes LYKE guitar in the works, mainly the planning stage and set the V to the side for a while. I'm going to center on the neck building end of things for a while as well, since the V needs a neck as well as the RResque. When I bought the basswood, I got enough for 2 bodies and I may make one like my avatar.
  6. Also, You wanna Take a Danelectro Bacon N Eggs pedal apart and use that. I got mine for 10 bucks on close out at my local music store. There was pic somewhere on the net of this guitar since it was travel guitar and the wings detach for shipment.
  7. Don't sweat it Cloud, It's your first guitar, We all have the learning experience and know what NOT to do next time. I've built a few necks but alot of bodies and it just adds to the learning. In My Opinion, the body is the easy part and the neck is the hardest part. Start again and keep in mind the parts of building that tripped you up, and keep on learning!
  8. Unfortunatly Carvin don't ship outside the US at this time. That's the problem. Try USA custom, they might ship outside the US but I'm not sure. Check their website for details. From what I've gathered on the board here, they make top quality necks that are very good quality.
  9. Don't quote me on this but I believe that the florescent colors are just that bright florescent but Do Not glow under black light. But Just in case ask that question in the finishing and inlays forum and see if there's someone there that can direct you on those.
  10. Now this is just my opinion mind you, and you know about those, But if it were me I'd take some more material off the upper bout, where the neck attaches, around the toggle cavity. It looks quite large. You're actually building a great guitar, it just needs a few details ironed out, I think.
  11. If you're still up for ideas, and Have neck completed, Clamp the neck about where you want it, finding relative center, using a shim between the fretboard and clamp, and use a straight edge down the sides of the neck, and mark a fine pencil line, then center your bridge at scale length. Trace a line around the the neck heel to show where your neck pocket will be. Remove the neck and clamp, now line up the Trusty stew mac Neck template and stick it down with double sided tape and fire up that router, cutting that neck pocket to the correct depth. 2 3/8" is width of my lines at the bridge, and you want to center that with relative center of the body as well.
  12. Prost, IMO, Don't touch a file or cutaway any material on the top. Being a laminated top, I think you'd regret it later, when you cut thru that beautiful maple cap. Like Hotrock Said, Check your measurments on the bridge placement to see that it's 25.5" from nut to bridge center. I thought Warmoth actually drilled the neck holes when they made bodies. IF the neck has holes already find some small dowel centers and put those in the neck holes and give it a small tap and that will give you the hole placement. I cut the heads off nails and wrapped them with tape and put those in the holes, In place of dowel centers. It depends what kind of finish your putting on it. If you use a oil based finish, Use an Oil based Paste wood Filler. If you use Water based Finish, Use water based paste wood filler. You won't have to do that to the top because it's Maple and closed Grained.
  13. Stephans, It depends on the amount of carving you wanna do on the top. Like violin tops, they usually take some tools called planes and mark a profile on the top and cut away all the material they don't want there. Which can be slow and tedious work but very noticable. Others will use a machine called a router to cut away the material. Much easier but the setup of the jigs needed can be difficult. So, That's what i meant about the amount of work you wanna put into it.
  14. I'm doing a flat neck for it instead of a scarf joined neck. Similar to the strat type with no headstock angle since it'll be easier and functional. I got the tools today (Whoosh) and the V and the Warloky will get minor work done tomorrow. I'll keep you all posted to progress then.
  15. That neck above was my first and planing wasn't in the cards and it just got built. With all it's imperfections. The maple has lotsa marks in it and the headstock needed repaired since I didn't plan that out and the tuners were too close together. Having the parts at hand is always a good idea. I'm down on myself lately since it seems I never get a guitar done, so I'm gonna finish one and then I'll be happy. I have one that's very close and I will get it done in the next few weeks.
  16. My only concern was starting a neck and thinking, well this is my test neck and if it doesn't turn out well, I can scrap it. That kinda thinking always led me to trouble. That's me though.
  17. Exactly. But, After the bodywork is done and finished, I can still do the ferrules. It's never too late tho. Haven't many of us modded their guitars after it was finished and had good results.
  18. I ordered all the router templates from stewmac today and will be working on this asap. I'm tired of dinkin around with these small details and wanna get started on the meat and potatoes of the woodwork itself. The small details can get worked out in the final stages. The bodywork is my strong suit and I'm sticking to that for now and "may" purchase the neck for this one.
  19. Ya know, I just thought about it and I'm gonna finish up this guitar the way it is and add the ferrules later when I find what I wanna use cuz I'm tired of dinkin around with it. I wanna thank everyone for the input and Keep em comin if you have any original ideas.
  20. You have the right idea! I would use the dowels, apply the glue to the dowel and put it in the hole and tap it home. Then Flush cut it with either a flush cut saw or you can also use fret nippers.
  21. Unlike you, I'm Old. But you did some really nice work on those but, I expect you to have em done next week........
  22. Well, I tried the "Devil's Bowtie" and it looks crap so I'm off ot other ideas.
  23. That's Matt's rendering in Photoshop of a design he wants to make. It's kinda based on the Beast and He altered it a little. I've been putting my 2 cents in every now and then.
  24. Sorry Matt, I didn't mean cheap as in low quality, I meant economic. If it turns out well, You have a neck for another guitar. Get the truss rod measurment right tho, cuz my first one the the adjustment screw stuck out too much and It looked horrable.
  25. You said they were overpriced, and I disagree. That's all.
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