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jer7440

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Everything posted by jer7440

  1. jer7440
    On the stewmac cauls, are they radiused for the crown of the fret as well as the fretboard radius? Did that make any sense?
  2. jer7440
    How big is this saw? Would it be unreasonably expensive for you to buy your own blade? I work in a metal shop, both of our bandsaws are variable speed. If you picked up your own wood cutting blade, and put the saw on its highest speed you should have no problem.
  3. jer7440
    CNC stands for computer numerical control. Basically it is a router or mill that is driven by computer control. The process is very accurate and repeatable. It lends itself well to guitar production. Many big manufacturers are using this technology. Names like Gibson, Fender and PRS. There are also several smaller custom builders who use CNC machines as well. Ron Thorn is one who imediately comes to mind. Thorn does some truly beautiful work, check it out at: http://www.thornguitars.com./customguitarh...stomguitars.htm
  4. jer7440
    Sweet video! Cool guitars.
  5. jer7440
    The restore they are doing on that 1834 Martin is unbelievable. That would be and interesting job to have.
  6. jer7440
    Assuming you don't have a spray rig, you are limited to what you can get in a spray can. Any clearcoat should be good. Several guys here have had good luck with Deft. You should be able to get spray cans of Deft at Home Depot type places. As far as number of coats, it really depends on how smooth you want the finish to be. If you just want to put some clear over the stickers, and you don't mind the edges of the stickers showing, you will need fewer coats than if you want the whole thing perfectly smooth. If you want the whole thing smooth, you just keep spraying and leveling until there are no more ridges from the sticker edges. This may take a bunch of coats.
  7. jer7440
    It was ok, but when I look back now I really didn't have a clue what good tone was. If it was loud and distorted as hell I liked it.
  8. jer7440
    I used to have a blue LP just like that. Mine had a Screamin' Demon Pick up in the bridge postion though.
  9. jer7440
    Yeah I know, My software will also run a simulation of the tool path. I was just in too much of a hurry. I got a little cocky an I paid for it.
  10. jer7440
    Well after a very long delay, it's time to have another go at this project. Just bought another piece of maple for the top. Not the greatest piece ever, but the price was right Hopefully this time I can mill on the carve without the extra gouge in the middle.
  11. jer7440
    Hey, check out this tutorial on ferrule holes. ferrule holes
  12. jer7440
    +1
  13. jer7440
    Check out Thorn Guitars. This guy does a ton of shell purfling. Just look through his galleries. I've seen examples with shell on the top and on the sides.
  14. jer7440
    Not for most of it. Surfcam, Mastercam...any other real reputable cad/cam software that will mill anything complex like archtops etc... all come with hardware keys...ex) HASP (key that plugs into the parallel port) for mastercam, etc... Cheers, Nish My Mastercam sales rep told me that version 9 was hacked and on the internet before CNC Software had even released it to the public for sale. If you want it and you know where to look it can be had. Even once you have the software, there is the learning curve. It took me forever to create my LP surfaces, and I work with this stuff daily. As far as a homebuilt cnc machine goes, I would think you would be looking at spending serveral thousand dollars to build something heavy duty enough for most guitar work.
  15. jer7440
    Lookin good D! I haven't been around here much lately, but I'm starting to get the itch to get back to the LP project. Looks like you still have a huge supply of wood...
  16. jer7440
    On most of the swirls I have seen here, the base color of the guitar still shows after the swirl ( be it white or black or whatever). I would think you holoflash would be the same way. Sound like a really cool idea.
  17. jer7440
    Let me start by saying I have never tried this but it seems logical to me. I would let all the paint dry before removing the pickguard, or you will smudge it for sure. Let the paint dry and then trace around the pickguard with a sharp exacto knife or a scalpel to break the paint between the guard and the guitar body. Be very careful doing this. After you get the body and the guard seperated, spray alot of clearcoats over the guard to protect the paint . After you remove the pickguard be extra careful not to flex it in any way or your swirl may crack. I'm not sure of how you should deal with the water in cavities, but I know it's a big issue when swirling. Don't want that wood to warp! Just my $.02.
  18. jer7440
    How about some details on the custom amp? Maybe a close up of the front panel?
  19. jer7440
    Lookin' good D!
  20. jer7440
    If you want to save some money do a google search for the "scary sharp system"
  21. jer7440
    Ron, are you ripping those recon stones into strips on your cnc? If so, what do you use for a cutter. How about spindle speed and feed?
  22. jer7440
    Looks cool! Nice work in Solid Works (right?). I envy your ability, I tried and tried to creat a neck but didn't have much luck.
  23. jer7440
    How are you guys converting your hand drawing into your cad programs?
  24. jer7440
    I do CAD and CAM and spend most of my days running a CNC machine and EDM machine. Give me a shout if you need any thing. I do have a 3d for a LP top. It's not stock, the carve is more extreme. I think it looks good. I have been trying to cnc my own stuff but I keep running into budget constraints. I would be willing to work something out for some top wood. Let me know if you are interested.
  25. jer7440
    Hey derek, If the motor can be wired for 110 the the low voltage line would be the 110 line. High voltage would be 220. If you are not sure the motor is supposed to be capable of 110v call grainger.
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