dpm99

Good point. Like I said - noob. This is the stuff you want, right? http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4217-4-Inch-20-Foot-Hose/dp/B005W17RD0

I think you guys have sold me on the HF model. Can't beat the price. I love that shop designer too. I think I'm getting closer.

Well yeah, and I'm not prejudiced against Oak, but laminates ought to contrast.

Maple and Oak aren't really going to contrast much. Why Oak?

I wonder how much power is necessary. The 1HP ones aren't so expensive. Anybody know?

All guitar building is on hold for me for the next month. We've moved out of our rental house, and are temporarily in an apartment while we try to close escrow as first time home buyers. In the meantime, I'm trying to plan out dust collection in my new shop. If we end up in the house we're in escrow for now, it will be half of an oversized garage (12X22 maybe?). I'll be putting up a temporary wall across the middle of the garage, and another in place of the garage door, with an air conditioner. I've lived without dust collection so far. I use a respirator and clean up with a shop vac, or I just work outside. I want to step it up. I just don't know anything about this stuff, and was hoping somebody could point me toward some basic information on what I need to do. Since I'm building temporary walls, I can run pipes and vents wherever I want. I just have no idea what to do, or even what I need in a dust collector. Can anybody get me started?

I just meant the product itself, and I'm a cheapskate. As compared to a full spray setup, it's really cheap. I'm sure it's a lot cheaper than TruOil too.

Expensive, but probably a very good choice for a wipe finish. I'm looking forward to seeing how it comes out.

Anxious to see your work. I'm interested in polymerized tung oil, particularly as a substitute for TruOil.

I've seen this stuff recently too. Nice article. I'd get one but my Tetanus shots aren't up to date.

I can't believe you made that.

Wow, that's a nice bridge.

If the action is perfect and it's not binding up, how could it be improved? What's it made of?

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

From my research some time ago, I think I remember the consensus being that "Whitewood" generally refers to whatever spruce, pine, or fir they don't really care to sort out. It can be anything, so long as it's white and it's wood. My guess on why kiln dried wood often warps is that the kiln may take it down to 9% moisture content, but once it gets to your shop, the moisture content will raise significantly. So you want it to stabilize first, and then you can use it.

People that buy wood there aren't looking for figure. They'll pass it over without a second thought. Unfortunately, they don't sell Maple at any of the stores near me.

You never know. Maybe it will work. And I think you may be right about hollowing it out being the problem. I would think gluing it up will help, but the real test will be how it holds up under string pressure.

Don't do it, bro. At times like this, it's best to just step away for a day or two and think it through. If you like the bamboo and want to use it, sandwich something really solid between the two halves. Then you want a thick, hard finish on the outside.

While I have no personal experience doing this, I'd be glad to offer the sum total of my knowledge on this subject. This: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=46159&st=0&p=501813&hl=sticky&fromsearch=1&#entry501813 Or this: http://www.stewmac.com/shop/Electronics,_pickups/Supplies:_Cleaners_and_lubricants/DeoxIT_Pot_and_Switch_Cleaner.html

It's not me. Thank Bob Flexner. By the way, I know this book has been recommended a lot, but it really is great.

Not really.I started using it years ago and recently it's popularity has increased exponentially...It is stable enough to use even the most figured pieces for necks and the figuring is outstanding...I have built with waterfall and pomelle bubinga and both have turned out amazing.Best wood ever in my opinion,but it is so heavy you should make the smallest,thinnest guitars you can out of it. That's kind of what I mean though. It seems to get used a lot more in the bass market, but given its strengths, coupled with the fact that it's an exotic with a fairly plentiful supply, I'm not sure why it isn't more of a "go to" wood for guitars. Somebody send Gibson an email and tell them about Bubinga please. They can keep their stinking Obeche.

Awesome first build! Where's the kevlar going?

Never worked with Bloodwood, but that's just because it's hard for me to find locally. I can buy quartersawn Bubinga right down the road for $11/bf. It's not my favorite wood, but it does seem a bit underutilized to me.

Blotchiness happens because some parts of the wood are softer than others. The flames in flame maple are actually just spots where the wood is softer. In the pictures above, you have an area where a lot of flame is happening in the same spot. It looks like the flames are running over one another, creating a larger soft spot with no truly hard areas between them. I don't really know how to get around it. I've only read the first half of Bob Flexner's book so far.

Hey RAD, have you tried Khaya and Bubinga before? It seems to me that their color is too close to make an effective contrast. The stuff I've got almost matches.