thedoctor
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Everything posted by thedoctor
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Yep, no problem. Use the search function and you will see the wiring you are looking at in exquisete detail.
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You might have mentioned what you were planning to do in your first post. All that is available if you do a search on this forum.
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Have you tried a different cord to the amp? If you followed LK's instructions and still have this problem, the man-of-color is still there.
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Is this a used Gibson? I have found several rather bad flaws in Gibsons made in the last 4 years but they don't seem to show up right away. Maybe they have had this one in stock for a while. And, yeah, a lot of retailers buy the near-seconds. Gibson is not the only one that will sell them but they sell the most of em. Funny, though, it is usually the mailorder people that try to use the "happy to get it" syndrome to pass off defects. Hmmm. I almost forgot to add. With Gibsons, the edges of the fretboard are starting to look like they are pre-finished and just glued on. Rather disturbing trend.
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Stew Mac Compound Radius Fingerboards?
thedoctor replied to shanter's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
I'm with Wes on this one. I checked four new and about ten installed fretboards and they all appear to be quater-sawn, including, no surprise here, the wenge. -
I am SO glad I get to duck the inlay and pickup wiring questions! A dovetail joint is not the best choice for a first guitar unless the body style absolutely demands it, ie. accoustic or vintage Gibson set. The only way to get tight dove-tails with common tools is to spend a lot of time with a coping saw and some very nice wood files. The dovetail does not have to match a blueprint, a bunch of predefined dimensions or anything. It just has to fit it's mating part. Not all that tough to do but it takes time and patience. You might want to look at some of the easier dovetail substitutes, like those metal-insert keyed bolt in thingies. I believe LMI sells them.
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How Much Does It Typically Cost...
thedoctor replied to mailman's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
Ok, if you brought it to my shop and waited two days, it would be $42.00. You would pick it up or tell me what you didn't like about the way I did it. Two more days and another $42.00. If you UPSed it to me and sent crappy instructions on what you want, 3 hours @ $42.00 per and at that point you would be upset and I would have a pissed former customer. You got to talk face-to-face with the guy that is going to do the work and he will not let you leave until you both are in TOTAL agreement on the work to be done. That done, it should cost between $42.00 and $102.00. As my father always said, never price another man's product. -
Gonna drag this topic back up to see if anyone knows of a CD of this event. It be be a "must-have" if available. Us old farts, I mean a DVD.
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Please send pictures of the wife. I might be interested in trading you a 4 X 12 cab for her, providing she is in good shape. The wife, I mean.
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Best Acoustic For The Cash...
thedoctor replied to allstellar's topic in Acoustic and Hollowbody Guitar Chat
A lot of people overlook the old classified-ad section of the newspaper. Hit one fast with cash in hand if you want a bargain. OR, watch the same ad daily and see if the ad is withdrawn before the SOLD! sign comes out. Wait a week and call with an offer of about 1/2 what they were asking, should they still have it. Takes most folks that long to figure out they were asking too much. -
If you got a 212 now, you ain't gonna be impressed with a Carvin. The MetalHead might be a small improvement but I think you are going to end up with a Marshall. Sorry.
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OR, it worked just fine last week. Or, second shift must have done it, or why would it just break? At a certain point, you quit using the "last for ever" and the "last time I used it" stuff and FIX the damn thing! I know that is a little strong language for me but< as Bart Simpson would say, I didn't do it, nobody saw me and you can't prove it. It be broke. Fix it. We already know that there is a man-of-color in charge of the bulk cellulose storage.
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Yeah, and not as hard is not a bad thing for a neck. If it outlasts hickory on the mowers, it should be a stable neck wood. Some of this hardness stuff is viewed in the wrong light.
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If you really don't want easy why don't you try a coping saw. I am serious. You get all day to make the cut and you can't make a mistake very quickly. It is also very satisfying to finally get through a section that falls off. I, for the life of me, cannot figure out why people want their guitar bodies cut to such perfect renditions of the "original". Some of my best axes are mistakes or "out-of-tolerance". A coping saw, a sturdy kitchen table and a decent wood clamp. Works for me. I must admit, I bought one of those Sears bandsaws that were on sale for, like, $99.95 a couple of years ago but it just takes the duration out of the process. Ain't much fun to use.
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Ferrules --getting Them Straight
thedoctor replied to Mickguard's topic in Solidbody Guitar and Bass Chat
If your pilot holes are right through the bridge (that would be the top, I hope) and go all the way through to the bottom, put the body in a nice, happy place on the press table where it can be moved around a bit, light-feed the bit down to your pilot hole and rotate the bit by hand BACKWARDS. When the bit no longer flexes or pushes the body around, drill to the proper depth. Works for me. -
The Hipshot BG is NOT expensive. It has everything you need built in and wholsales for about $90.00. What do you want? I just don't think it is a very cool bridge. In gold, it might have some looks but it is just a little lame, for me. Who makes those flamed TOM bridges? I think those might have some potential, if they are any good. You have to remember the source of this opinion. I don't like pickguards, either. Shields up! IMHO
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Man, I thought the sixtie's were SO over! Coming back to glo-paint, are we? The actual glows byitself stuff is kinda lame, but if you had done a search on this forum topic you would already know that. Talked to death about three months ago. If you want something that gets active under blacklights, ANY of the neon-bright paints (DayGlo) will phos quite well. If you want to use it as a grain filler so it is there all the time, remember how awful the stuff looks in regular light. Pick a color and see if it is available as a phosphorescent ID oil from one of the security supply companies. If I remember right, you can only get lame red, orange, green and a neon blue. Only works under blacklight, however.
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You shouldn't find a thing wrong with the rogue's sound, espescially playing through the PA. I would take that little turd on ANY gig if I knew the laughter would eventually subside. And it would with my amps. Or at least you wouldn't be able to hear it (the laughter) anymore.
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I can only go by my exposure to Bulgarian Maple, which might be the same. It is not quite as hard, usually has more dark steaks in it and looks its best (IMHO) when bleached. An excellant wood for necks or, in my experience, hardwood tiebars for syclebar mowers. Tough stuff. Used to use hickory for the mowers until the ends started splitting where the bolts went through.
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If you are going to go ahead and plug into the PA instead of getting an amp, stay away from the EB-0. You will need a clear, low-rumble axe to keep the PA in one piece. I like your first choice but buy it from Zzounds. Better support when it comes in damaged. IMHO From what you are saying, I think you might save some money and get a Rouge(here come the boos) from Musician's Fiend and hope you don't have to play bass too long. I think they are about as big a bargain as you can get. I kept one at home, although I thoroughly went trough it, and found the neck to be a real treat for a $145.00 axe. Once again, shields up Mr Sulu! IMHO
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Real-time jamming will always have a bit of delay but the older, CD or even multitrack to hard drive system is still used by a lot of folk who can't get together, physically, to practice or work on new stuff. Eckret Studios in Iowa does a lot of this for some fairly major bands. Everyone gets two or four channels to put in different takes of their contribution and the others in the group get to do der thing, saving what they like and sending it back to the others for review/critique. Cds take days to get updates. The multitrack downloading can get someone's new licks to ya in about twice the song's length. I know, it isn't really jamming but it is as close as you can get without latency and poor audio. IMHO but don't let it get out.
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I have always cut two different sized holes, depending on front or back-mount.
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No. Quit looking for "pickup screws" and go to the hardware store, pickup(or even better) guitar in hand. There are a bunch of metric, SAE, ASME, whatever machine screw threads out there and, even in France, you should be able to find some 6-32, 8-32, 5-56 or 4-40 screws that will hold that without drilling or forcing. ROAD TRIP!!!!
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As I said in another post, LK has described a lot of people's problem with using the search function on this forum. Too many posts asking the same question just "pollute" the search function. If the question is asked twice on two different topics, the search function just became half as effective. Shame on anyone who does this, and, PLEASE< PLEASE< PLEASE, use the search function BEFORE you post. Help keep this forum effective, useful and easy to use by "searching" first. And no double topic enties. I quit responding to anything I see posted on two or more topics by the same member on the same subject. Not that THAT is any loss!
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Ever use a cheap, unsophisticated wireless unit? If not, you need to. A bad wireless unit (even a so-called Diversity) can ruin the gig, blow amps, blow speakers and make life miserable. If the folk we set up OUR sound equip. for won't use our wireless stuff, I put a severe hard-knee compressor/limiter on their input and tell them to live with it. I don't need the pops and cracks that come out of a cheap wireless costing me money. A good wireless 2 to 12 channel system should cost at least $800.00 and noone is gonna give you a DIY schematic for it, like it would do any good with all the proprietory components involved.