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They're good also if the truss rod channel is useless and it makes the template less strong in the middle. You can't clamp it at the ends, you have to use double sticking tape.

Sorry? Do you mean that you don't like them?

Hi folks, this week end I did continue to work. Here you can see a step of radiusing. Again so hard on ebony!!! Here I am taking some measurments from a real JEM and here you can see a moment when I had to attach a 1/4" piece of maple at the end of the headstock cuz I be wrong on the headstock length Then I used a ball bearing router bit to shape the actual neck and headstock. So I can start to see something. The neck still has 5 mm than the right lenght.... just to see how it looks on the body. I'm writing this post while i'm taking a break on the vine inlay. I'm a total newbie and it's so difficult!!! BTW with some filling I believe I will end up with a fairly good result... i hope For filling what is your advice? I'm going to use epoxy: ebony powder and epoxy mixed in? Or dyed black epoxy? I have the LMI aniline dye. Will it work? The inlay flush for approx 0,012 - 0,015 inch, is it too much? Gian

Nice guitar man, cheers!!! Gian

It's what I thought and I did. That way you have the scarf beginning just under the second fret and this looks like more strenght to me (the Ibanez ones are done the same way). Then I have to bandsaw 4 - 5 mm from the headstock area and sand flat the back. I didn't know about martin Koch method, btw I had not problems using block that way. When I did route the truss rod channel i wasn't able to notice the joint. It seemed like one piece maple Where can I find that info guitarfrenzy? Thanks everyone for your comments. Gian

It's been a while since I began to build my first neck. I waited a long time for a double acting truss rod and an ebony fingerboard from LMI. The fretboard slotting on that gabon ebony board was a real pain in the arse!!! That stuff is hard rock!!! BTW after 3 hours I was able to slot it Here and here you can see some steps during slotting. And this is the neck clamped. I found the installation of the truss rod more easy of what I thought about but on the other side I didn't believe it was so hard to work with ebony This is my fisrt build of ever and I have to say that you must pay so attention to all measures but with a bit of patience and attention, it's not so scary.... ok ok I didn't do the vine inlay and fretting yet I will let you know (btw I did fret my Strat neck a while ago and the job was good). Let me know what do you think. Gian

Yeah... very nice job!!! I hope mine will look shiny like the yours Enter it GOTM!!! Gian

Congrats man!!! Gian

Very nice nice top. Jeremy how do you approch to a figured top? You use poly and... do you spray directly on it? Or you use some poly sealer?!?!?

Sorry but Perry gave you the only possible answer!!! BTW Mykasguitar posted a lot of pix with dyed top and he uses your same dyes. Search for his posts. Again, for me it's clear that I have to mix strong the dyes, at least as starting point Gian

Good clean job, I like that piece of ash!!! What pick ups are you going to mount?

I never listened about alternative to borax. With this I'm not telling "there isn't" but here I didn't listen about. Try to see if you find on the "web" someone selling it.

Sorry but I lost the last updates. Why did you use a bleach? Gian

What bridge do you use? If you use a floyd, it shouldn't.

Yeah... now the problem is that you can change easy from a smaller to a flat radius cuz you simple sand more in the sides. From a smaller to a flat radius you have to sand down the entire board. So I think the fretboard will be a bit more thin. If you can set more low the bridge this isn't really an issue.

Great Neil!!! My congrats. Your building and polishing job is just great IMO. That Mahogany is spectacular!!! I'm in Italy, does that seller ship here? Does it have a website? Again cheers man!!! Gianluigi

Very hard this GOTM. I like all instruments!!! I like so much the Perry's top, but after 9 months and that great polishing job, I gave my vote to Cud. It was an hard choice!!! Cheers everyone!!!

I don't know. I heard to speak about scrapers!?!?!

That job is so "clean" and accurate. I don't see nothing wrong with CNC. There are so many factor making a guitar alive. Not an hand made body only!!! I never played a korina body. Is it so close to mahogany?

Usually on guitar like a Fender Amercan Strat you can see under the color coat a polyester seal coat. Very thick. If you sand down the color coat and achieve an even surface without low spots as Erikbojerik said you before it's ok. Primer then apply your color coat and clear.

Do you drill a smallest hole than the mounting ring screw and force it into the wood? Cuz if you use a wood screw the lenght you need just to mount it, it's ok, but you can't use the PU anymore than another direct mount situation. That way you could be able to use it in the future also for mounting ring, that's a better way, sure!!! I say this cuz I can't find a screw that doesn't enlarge the hole in the PU al least where I live.

One of the best product is the one selling Alsa Corp. But it's a bit expensive than other products I seen around. Otherwise dude.... try a search with google and look at a shop selling online!!!

A cool way could be this: use the Retro glow powder selling Alsa corp under a piece of clear acrylic inlay. Maybe a painted vinyl insert. Or try to mix the powder in clear epoxy and see if it works. BTW I believe you can find many other paints or powders to use in other way too.

Give him the time to fight versus the wiring scheme

Ok nice job Gepy but trust me, as I already said.... let me help you with english