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doug

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Everything posted by doug

  1. doug
    Awesome! Nice buckeye too! -Doug
  2. doug
    Carefully resize the ebony just the same amount as the thickness of your binding. Then be sure your fret slots are deep enough so that when you sand the radius (if it's not already) the frets won't bottom out. You can now attach the binding to the ebony. Use a sanding block made of wood or something that won't flex, and sand the bottom flat again. It's hard to keep the binding perfectly lined up along the bottom edge. You need good coverage here though so there is not gap after attaching the fingerboard to the neck. Also it's not a bad idea to sand the top back to shape as well. Then you have a correctly sized fingerboard to work with. -Doug
  3. doug
    The ones from Allied are WEAK, some kind of poor import. Stick with the ones from LMI. The HotRods suck too, way too deep rout. Keep the truss rod channel tight! With all that hard work on a guitar don't cut yourself short over $10. It's not worth it. -Doug
  4. doug
    I'll be glad to help as well. If you're in need of any hardware, pieces, and parts too I will be happy to donate to your cause. Let me know. It's always a pleasure to help out a great program like that! Fix your pics! -Doug
  5. doug
    Setch said it all. I always overbend, and that typically does the trick. Also, double check to make sure there is no remnants of the tang going over the binding. -Doug
  6. doug
    Break angle over the bridge is very important for tone. If one was to draw the path of the strings from the side it would be quickly evident what I am refering to. Unless the string holes are also lowered, the break angle will certainly be more shallow. Hence lower string pressure. The Zakk Wylde guitar Maiden speaks of has a 4 degree neck angle and TOM bridge. This is a "standard" configuration that results in proper break angle. You could try to make up for this by keeping the string holes as close to the bridge as possible, thus increasing the decreasing the break angle. This is especially true for the smaller diameter strings. They tend to pop off during bending. I'm with some of the others, a Tele should sort of look like one. -Doug
  7. doug
    The only trouble with that recessed bridge is string tension going over the bridge will be lighter that it should be. Two problems wit this: One low angle and tension means your strings can pop out of the saddles much easier, there is less downward force. Second with less downward force, tone will be affected in a not so good way. It's interesting how Godin does it, and, well, it makes one wonder why too. -Doug
  8. doug
    Cool! I like to use a procuct called Apple Plywood. 1/2" has about 15 layers. This stuff is real stable so it's a great all around product. Masonite, as you call it, comes in many, many different types. That's why I mentioned tempered. That stuff is real hard. Now you can make real good and long lasting templates by just coating it with thinned generic polyurethane like minwax from Home Depot. Turns it into iron I think. Ha. That MDF is very easy to work. I make templates twice. The first is out of MDF so I can modify or refine it. Then once its perfect I use it once to make the Lexan final template. I hate working the Lexan so I do all of it on the MDF, then stick them together then take a pattern bit to them. Have fun! That's the idea anyway. -Doug
  9. doug
    Cut 2 pieces of at least 1/2" thick wood 3" wide and around 15" long. Put one on each side of the neck and clamp in place. Then cut a third piece about 3" long. Place that small piece tight against the end of the tailstock (heel) and draw the taper on each side where it would contact the 2 longer side pieces. Grab up the small piece and mill it down to the lines. Then test fit it into the space at the end of the heel. Once it fits snugly, glue it in place and clamp. You will create something that looks like a fork. Use a pencil to mark the area where the hell would actually rest. Once it has dried long enough, unclamp it and remove the neck. Now you might want to add center marks. With a 1/2" router bit you will be able to create a nice snug pocket. By using longer boards on the sides, the whole unit will be more accurate. Hope this helps. -Doug
  10. doug
    The double action from LMII or similar are the way to go. Hot Rod ... well you have already heard most of it... my 2 cents -Doug
  11. doug
    Thanks! Does Lowes or HD around you carry that thick stuff? Around here they only have 1/8" which is way to flexible, and thinner than pattern bit berrings. -Doug
  12. doug
    Octavdoctor, in production you are right. Those of us with more experience may know what to look for right off. However, for someone with less experience, it can easy to become confused and just keep perpetuating the problem by making the wrong adjustment here or there. Guess I was just trying to help create a fresh baseline. Capoing is a good method as you described. -Doug
  13. doug
    I'm just outside Rochester NY. There are several industrial plastics companies here. I go and pick up 4ft x 4ft sheets of 3/8 Lexan. It is 30 times stronger than Plexi so there is little chance of it shattering when being worked. However it is REAL expensive. These places always have small pieces you can buy. And one has a pile of scraps by the front Will Call counter all ready for these odd requests. For most everything I use 3/8 tempered MDF. This can be purchased from plywood or "sheet stock" suppliers. It's cheap, and it doesn't explode like plexi. Look in your Yellow Pages under "Plastics" -Doug
  14. doug
    Something to think about. If your truss rod is loose your neck will flex more then you might like. It may be worth the time to remove all relief and straighten the neck with the strings nearly in tune. It won't matter right now if they are perfect. Then check the nut height. Try not to have any more height than the thickness of your high e string. Once you've made that adjustment, if necessary, check how high you strings are above the last fret. It should be a little higher. It sounds to me like you may need to raise up the bridge just a bit, and lower the nut. Also, while the neck is straight, check level across the fretboard end to end. Look for high near where your strin frets out.
  15. doug
    A real good brad point drill bit from a fine woodworking store will do it. Use an awl to "punch" the center point. Then the good bit will sit nice into the dpression to make your holes right where they need to be. I make dead on templates with tempered masonite or Lexan. Then use the brad point bit to drill the final hole with the template attached. If you're using a hand drill, well they may not be as level as can be. You want to use a 13/32" bit. -Doug
  16. doug
    Okay. Then use standard 4/4 stock, cut it into 1 3/4" strips. Stand them all up and glue into a block. Let the block sit around in a warm place for a few days. Sources for the lumber are numerous. Quick google search. Find more help and pictures at http://www.soulmateguitars.com I can also assist you directly if you send an email. -Doug
  17. doug
    Are you trying to use one piece for the neck? If so, the left over piece cut out when you saw the length of the neck shaft will work for the headstock. You'll need to plan the location of the nut, and adjust the overall lenght accordingly. To make the angle a solid disk sander with a 14 degree jig will do it, or if you have an Incra type table saw mitre gauge it will also work well. Because this method gets your hands close to the blade it may not be the safest choice without a proper jig. Doug........
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