Pr3Va1L
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Everything posted by Pr3Va1L
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i KNOW this has been asked a thousand times, but i got to ask it again. My bridge is a 12" radius TOM and my neck is 15" radius... i know everyone who asked that has been told to just file down the bridge... problem is: 1.it's a piezo bridge and i really don't want to destroy an element cause i filed too hard... 2. i'm sure if i try to file it it'll end up breaking strings every 5 minutes. so, what can i do? thanks! edit: ah great... make that Radius in the title
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New Goldtop Custom Guitar Finally Finished
Pr3Va1L replied to Myka Guitars's topic in In Progress and Finished Work
yep, this definitely looks like my design, not that it's a bad thing... And i will build it anyways Very good job on the build anyways! I just don't like that lower horn... Me too, am interested in that tailpiece... did you build it yourself? its nice! a very professional looking job you did there! -
all the midi pickup does is get the string vibration and send it to a machine that changes the sound to another really... so it's not the same thing why not play keyboard? as you said, i can't play as well the piano as i can with guitar, and also the "feeling" is very different... can you bend and do vibrato and stuff with a keyboard? no... synth guitarists are very rare but it's really nice!
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wouldn't it be cool to build a MIDI only guitar... i'm thinking around this: à - A midi pickup bridge (or a little pickup attached on it... Roland prolly) - A sustainiac single coil sustainer that would be totally cool to do... It could make (example...) some really nice violin sounds and such!! anyays, just throwing around ideas...
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actually, it's 800$ canadian... so around 600$ USD so its not so bad... like i said, it will have a piezo and stuff (pretty much like a parker)
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well, i'm not sure about that... i always tought that my current guitar (25" scale) had a long scale since, even on lights, strings never have had any slack... also, a Strat is the perfect example of slackness (as far as i tryed some) and its 25.5 ... anyways, personally i prefer smaller frets even with 24 frets...
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maybe you need a fret crowning/polishing or even prehaps a refret? that could be the problem(if its really old...)
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so the differences are mainly cosmetic? i guess there's a small difference in tone, like everything on a guitar, but its not much... on MIMF i read a good way of mounting them to wood... depending how clean i'm able to make clean cavities i'll try it... basically it's just calculating how much height you need, dig your cavity to that and then doing deeper holes for the little "legs" + 1/8"... Then just screw down until the back plate is all on the wood. anyways, thanks for your advices!!
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My Latest Inlay- Red Eyed Tree Frog/orchids- Rf
Pr3Va1L replied to Clavin's topic in Inlays and Finishing Chat
youve got DAMN talent! this thing is just GREAT! good job -
lol
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well, read the topic... so, what are the difference (if any) to tone by mounting the humbuckers directly to the wood, even if it's harder to do... (how do you get the height right?) In a neckthrough, shouldn't it provide more sustain? thanks!!
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man i just found what you should do ! look at this a bit, should really give you a good idea!
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I read on MIMF that it COULD work if i wired the PUs to ring and the Piezo switching to either ring or tip... i don't know about mixing them... maybe a simple blend pot would work no?
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well, i'm having a preamp in it, i'll build it myself... And i'll have 3 volumes... 1/pickup and one for piezo... http://www.till.com/articles/GuitarPreamp/ what i need is a switch with could make it possible to have 1 input jack either stereo or mono.
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question: can we actually use a stereo jack with a mono cable and still get both sounds? 'cause i won't be using a y cable at home, only for shows... so will i need some kind of switch like on the Fly, or do i not need to do anything?
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that's exactly what i want, been searching for a while without good results...
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try this: http://www.lrbaggs.com/manuals/x-bridge_fixed_manual.pdf i *think* your awnser is in there (too lasy to read.)
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well, i know i had seen something useful to that somewhere. on parker guitar's website: http://www.parkerguitars.com/media/pdfs/or...ire_diagram.pdf the wiring diagram of the original Fly. auto (i think) switching stereo output and stuff, it's all in there (even thoug i don't understand anything to these things.) EDIT: ok this one has a stereo/mono switch. The newer parkers all have an auto switching one... anyone know how to do it? btw: This should be quite useful =D
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is there any way to get everything wired with a stereo jack? you don't want your PUs in a acoustic amp lol... so we could use a Y cable and plug one in the amp and the other in the DI or something...
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don't they make veneers like 1/6"? that's about what i'd need, really. just so it dosent go directly from maple to mahogany... a darker line in between
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AlGeeEater, that's what i plan on doing (more or less, anyways) but first i need a job. As soon as i get one, i'll start my guitar...
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bah, you say a plane and sanding block is enough? not like it's hard to find...
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Hey, i was wondering where it would be possible to get some nice wood laminates... not for the top of the body but more like a small stripe from top to bottom of my body... so, what wood should i get and WHERE shall i find it? Example of what i mean (from toddler68's GOTM guitar)
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mate... main site http://www.projectguitar.com/ref/supply.htm
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bah, most of the wood you get is alredy planed no?