borge

What guitar and type of pups are you using it with? I think your cap value is too small ie the cutoff freq. is too high and is perceived as a volume drop. as cap value and/or pot value decreases cutoff freq. increases. ie halving the cap value doubles the freq. value. G&L use a .022uF cap and 1meg pot, so their cutoff frequency would be 22x lower that yours ie more bass passes through. If you want to find out (roughly) what the values are: Cutoff freq.(Hz, cps)= 1/(2piRC) where R= resistance, C=capacitance, pi=3.14159265.

You haven't given anywhere enough information for us to answer your question with any certainty. but anyway....most HB's are the same size, most SC's are the same size, most p90's ect ect

lowering the bridge and adding neck angle do the same thing: lessen the string-nut-FB angle. ie if you lower the bridge and buzz occurs the same buzz will occur if you had angled the neck instead.

Yes, i found a dead front on high res pic, blew it up in paint ( ) so it would print on 5 or so pages, blanked out colour to save ink, printed out one page, measured a known length to check scale, adjusted to suit, printed out all 5 pages, taped together. Of course this is probably the worst way to do it and someone with computer knowhow could do much better. Iit all turned out fine for me so I'm happy

Again with the nodes, anyone would think all you play is open strings I'm left handed and playing the bridge pup on a RH strat restrung sounds nicer to my ears than a regular LH strat, (like PSW said) the treble strings aren't as shrill and more harmonic content from the bass strings. Which, to me, especially after hearing it in action, seems the obvious way to angle it ie Leo got it 'wrong' again, of course i prefer the classic strat look (and dont want to hack up a PG) and fix one of Leo's other 'mistakes' to reduce the treble string shrillness, rewire to: bridge tone and mid+neck tone, still left on 10 most of the time but having it in the circuit is enough.

Heavier strings have more mass therefore more sustain and higher output. Its much more apparent with an acoustics than electrics because theres no string (pun intended ) of other variables (amp, pups, pedals, cables) to cloud results, compare a set of standard acoustic (12's) to a set of 10s of the same brand and type, prepare to be surprised..... Or try a set of heavy flatwounds (13s) on an electric, you'll see why jazz players use them pretty much exclusively, chords ring forever and single notes are fat and loud, no gain required

Haha. Good call, but my problem isn't with getting a clean tone, but rather a clearer tone when distorting. As the batteries wear down, the sound gets muddier. It's really not pleasant to listen to. But, when you put in a fresh battery, the high frequencies are all there and clearly defined. It sounds something like a thousand angels singing a heavenly chorus - just in guitar form. The idea was that the extra voltage would give this same effect, only more so. Yes, exactly right. The internal preamps clipping point become earlier as the voltage lowers (ie dying battery) so as you've worked out, raising the voltage raises the clipping point (and therefore dynamic range) IIRC EMGs can be run at up to 27volts... so you could take it alot further..... don't take my word for it though, confirm with EMG.

IME the 18v mod is worth doing in some cases ie to get rid of (EMG internal) preamp clipping when using heavy gauge strings and/or hitting hard. It could also be the EMGs high output is clipping the amps input which with most SS amps sounds pretty bad.

The pitch is (pretty much) constant, the harmonic content changes with picking position. Pinch harmonics come from emphasizing a particular harmonic by touching the string at a node which cancels other harmonics which have antinodes at that point, ie pinch harmonic on an open string, 24fret (or 5th fret) give the 3rd harmonic, but once you fret, the antinode moves and so to must the picking point, ie 2 fret=3rd harm. node at the 7th and '26th fret'

one word: obsolescence The electronics101 paper i did at uni was 90% digital....201 was 100% digital......analog is for electricians and technicians For amps you need a through understanding of basic analog electronics and valves, most valve theory books are long out print because valves are obsolete. second hand book stores are you're best bet, circa 1970s 'basic electronics for navy personnel' assume no previous knowledge and focus on valve theory.

Electricians are tradespeople, like builders, plumbers, I'd include amp techs in this category. I wouldn't base my degree choice on amp/pedal designing, they are very very simple circuits, and deal with very old technology, you will be very overqualified and underpaid to be an amp tech ect I'd be surprised if they mentioned tubes at all in a EE degree, asides from 'back in the old days some people used these funny old things'! From what I've been told from the EE's I've chatted with most of their work revolves around PLC design and maintenance for industry automation, they spent most his time sitting in a freezing works,saw mills, food processing plants with his laptop plugged into the PLC. he doesn't own tools and hasn't had to solder since the 1st year uni labs. The hands on stuff is for the lowly sparkies, you do a degree to get away from the hands on stuff, not into it ;-) Amp techs/designers learn their trade through tube amp bibles, hands on experience, and experimentation, check www.aikenamps.com for some introductory tech info/Recommended books.

+1 to making the hole only big enough for 3 positions. What do you want your switch to do?

I would never buy from him based on his ethics alone, (let alone his design principles..) check freestomboxes.org for some of his antics... if he hasn't had them censored yet..

Surely Seymour Duncan has these options, maybe not both in the same diagram but its easy to combine them. push pull pots are lower quality than CTS ect so with that in mind you may want to have them on the tones and use better pots for the volumes. do you want neck coils out of phase with each other or neck out of phase with the bridge pup? the second option on affects the neck+bridge selection

to clear any possible ambiguity: standard guitar tuning E2 A2 D3 G3 B3 E4 4 string bass E1 A1 D2 G2 5 string bass B0 E1 A1 D2 G2 6 string bass B0 E1 A1 D2 G2 C4 baritone guitar B1 A2 D3 F#3 B3

1 octave lower. a six string bass is usually tuned B-E-A-D-G-C (all 4ths, for symmetry of patterns I guess), 5 strings loss the high C.

define 'works well'? As electric necks are often thinner maybe the capo cant clamp tight enough so fretbuzz occurs on the new 'zero fret'. of course this only applies to spring/elastic based designs, the shubb (?) type adjustable roller have no such problem. It could also be the capo is designed for flatter radii and doesn't work well on 7.5, 9, fender radii. IME the spring loaded ones are crap, the thicker the neck (either from guitar to guitar, or along the neck) the tighter the spring clamps and the sharper your tuning becomes, of course, only really a problem when playing with others.

thats the tone cap not the treble bleed cap...

Treble bleed with a resistor? Isn't a .001uf cap usually used? you can tell what value the treble bleed cap is???

most basses have no selector, just volumes, check those. Im still not exactly sure what you want?

like i said, its easy to work how the amp switching and FS work.... 5 mins with a multimeter is all it takes, they are very simple circuits... you could easily add a battery to the marshall to get the leds to work which the vox FS doesnt have.

So you want to have 2 vol pots that becomes tone pots when you push them? AFAIK a standard push pull cant do that, you would need double ganged pots where the push pull selects which pot is controlled, Im not sure if they're made. concentric pots'll perform a similar function. yes you can have no selector, just volumes.

you could test the bridge pickups resistance (unhook it first) with a meter or wire it straight to the jack to confirm if its functional.

the 'chip' is, like donavan said, a trim pot and a few other components......not a switch in sight....

the fact you want to trade a deville for a line 6 makes me think you haven't played a line6 with a band.......